scotty nm35

I would be checking the half moon in the CAS isn't broken. The AFM pins may need a re-solder too.

Glowing red is only 500c, white hot is up nearer 1000.

Just cut out the wires and put them back how they were originally before the SAFC was fitted. Should run great. Then chuck the SAFC in the bin.

We are talking about what's happening in the manifold really, just after combustion. As Alex said, if your timing is out you may get similar symptoms.

I have one, but you are more than welcome to spend the coin if you want to...

If it has a flex then it's likely running a little lean. Without an exhaust temp gauge in the manifold or wideband running you will have no idea what is going on. My exhaust temps usually run around 600c, but yours must be much hotter to cause cracking.

My exhaust grows in length by 1 1/2 inches at the track, I would be surprised if those would give enough movement to last long term, unless the bracket can bend... Later model Nissan cars have a fixed rear bracket to stop the muffler swinging around, but they still run a flex joint stock.

I will do it for $700.

^^ This. The exhaust is a 5m long breaker bar, and your manifold is very soft at that temperature. A flex join in the front pipe isolates the forces caused by your muffler swinging around.

A standalone Haltech or similar isn't going to work with the CVT, and there is no point piggybacking a computer seeing you have the Osirus option.

All the time, meaning constantly while running. As a test just drop the PCV off the intake for a few days, and plug the intake side only. Should prove it's the PCV or not pretty quickly.

Now this I agree with.

The Haltech was in the front reg fitting on the plenum, not sure where the mechanical one was plumbed. The tuner just wants to see a consistent boost curve, he doesn't care if there is .5 or 50 psi drop over the cooler, but I agree, it must be close to maxing the core's flow. Wouldn't be hard to shove the mechanical onto the compressor cover and have a look Greg...

No, most of the cheap Chinese parts used in most build kits are designed for the older RB25det, the newer 'Neo' RB25det is a better base to start with, especially if your car came out with it, as you aren't allowed to run an older engine than the car in Australia. Sidefeed injectors are crap. Stagea's decimate all.

Don't, it will overheat and ruin your clutch packs.

That explains the limp cold start on 98. Like I said, 70 amp relay for the 460L, the 40 amp ones melt in no time causing high current draw.

Those Chinese will copy anything you are willing to buy, and they do a damned good job of it these days. Sometimes it is nearly impossible to pick, such as the new Bosch 044 copies.

Well the pressure in the manifold will likely be changing with load/gearing, so the wastegate will open at different psi due to this pressure change behind the gate. The diaphragm is perfect, I checked that when I swapped in the new spring. The turbo is brand new. Logging on the Haltech with a mechanical gauge as backup.

Too lazy to strap cars down correctly, or they don't know how in HPF's case. Strapping the rear down harder will of course lower the figures too, hence why hubbers are more consistent.

The early CVT's had only one drum in the fluid, which meant the higher drum wore quickly if the fluid was old or the fluid level was low. The newer CVT's, both drums are in the fluid, which makes them much more reliable. This is essentially why the early CVT's got a bad name. I spoke to my Nissan mech buddy last night, there is definitely a fluid timer which changes certain functions as the fluid deteriorates. This can be reset from the Consult3 as I thought.

The stock 3.5L computer is fully programmable, so no 'chips' are required. Osirus is the package you need, but most competent tuners will have the software required to tune it properly on the dyno. Don't expect too much extra power from it, Nissan only put a little protection in the form of less timing so there isn't much in the way of gains, and you will need to run 98 from then on. I doubt it will improve your economy much either, as the 4 o2 sensors are always trying to attain stoich burn rates with either tune.

No-one wants to see your old Peugeot in a Skyline specific section, did you misplace it here? The new Euro section above might have been better. Cold start smoking can just be a little blowby causing excess oil to drop down from the PCV overnight and sit on the valve, nothing to worry about usually, unless it does it all the time.

Just like an air compressor pressure switch, it has a hysteresis engagement, as in it switches on at a preset low pressure, and off again at a higher one, (around 220psi afaik.) This is to keep the Attessa pressure in an approximate pressure range. If it sees anything outside that range it likely throws a code. The transfer case won't care what maximum pressure is used to engage the clutches, but more pressure would mean the clutches are transferring more power to the front wheels than the attessa computer wants to send. How much this is an issue I don't know. Anyway, I have found a replacement can be custom made if you don't mind waiting, and can afford 10,000 switches.

The BOV return needs to be close to the turbo inlet to stop reversion. They blocked it off so the turbo doesn't suck unfiltered air once the atmo BOV was fitted. Silicone intakes are bloody stupid if that's what you mean, they suck shut when they get hot as the turbo generates a lot of vacuum.

No, the compression will be way too high as has already been said above. Swap with Angry RB?