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scotty nm35

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Everything posted by scotty nm35

  1. Nice one. I like those cheap fixes.
  2. I have 5 Stagea pump assemblies here with the same issue. If anyone finds a replacement pressure switch let me know. If we could find the hysteresis curve of the switch I am sure I could source a replacement... Would it matter if the pressure was a little higher or lower?
  3. I pressure tested his intake for him yesterday, nothing leaking much. The gasket between the plenum halves was bubbling away as usual (although it was only a slow leak) Back to the drawing board, seems it just can't supply enough air to make the target boost as Mark said above, or it's only leaking at WOT which makes it hard to pinpoint.
  4. There is definitely a turbocharged CVT getting about locally, and it's still running fine afaik. The box isn't weak, just misunderstood. I thought you had the RE4 for a minute, but yes, if you can drop in with it I could check out the diagnostics Nissan use to service the CVT. I don't specialise in transmissions, but I have shift kitted many Nissan auto boxes.
  5. I haven't had a CVT here to put on the consult3, but if there are such maintenance options, that would be the only way to reset it I imagine. Would be interesting to see the TCU diagnostics for these...
  6. Target boost won't ever be reached if there is a leak, which there was it seems. God only knows what the shaft speed reached to still supply 20psi...
  7. Damned hard to work with, drilling stainless without cobalt drill bits is like polishing a turd. You can't bead the lip easy, you need to tig little bulges onto the ends to create a lip for any hose clamps. Making hose fittings for the intake is much harder in stainless compared to alloy. Heavier.
  8. You can't see dry solder joints without a magnifying glass. Remove the old solder and replace it with new, it's usually the pins from the plug that vibrate and crack over time.
  9. The random nature of the fault points towards dry joints on the AFM or a bad connection somewhere. Try resoldering the AFM first as it's cheap and easy. (unless you can try a known good one.)
  10. The Mishimoto just fit, they push the airbox back a fair amount and you will need to trim a bit of the fiberglass. The shroud will need some modification too.
  11. I will only sell good Aussie Turbosmart gates these days. I have seen too many issues with other gate brands to recommend them, and you are only talking another $200 or so compared to the cheap knockoffs. It isn't an item you want to cheap out on, exhaust manifold temps get pretty damn high. Second hand is useless as you don't get a new flange for both sides.
  12. The 2.5 dd will most certainly be out of puff. A supercharged 3.5 will be just cruising along.
  13. Second hand S tunes can't compare to full adjustable brand new BC's. The BC spring rates are fairly soft due to the weight of the car. Perfect for the road.
  14. Which thermostat? I have tried a few and only the Nismo is any good. Mishimoto thermostat had the car in it's cold start map constantly and failed quickly not long after. I have been buying the Fenix rads, the alloy and the plastic tank version. Other than lacking stock they are good quality and local in Sydney.
  15. Lets hope all went well. I found this if you need it.
  16. I thought the existing child restraints were ok these days as they realised the Aus standard ones were inferior? Perhaps I am wrong though.
  17. Mine certainly are...
  18. Meh. I prefered the simple pipe under bass straight idea, run from Tassie's overflowing dams it would flow continuously, without power, for hundreds of years. Unfortunately the government knew they couldn't jack the price of water up as much with this solution.
  19. Depends if the stock rad is new or old, they block up pretty bad sometimes. I use a Mishimoto in my Stagea, good radiators.
  20. ^^ This is a common one I see.
  21. Vibration causes dry joints, not voltage.
  22. Might have trouble starting the engine unless there is an ignition on delay. Relying on anything electronic is a little silly imo, and cutting ignition could easily cause an accident. I hope you're not in front of me when it happens...
  23. Yer, I wouldn't be doing that on the VQ though. Idle relearns are a little more difficult on the M35. Just let it burn, it's what the manufacturer wanted it to do, must be for emissions. lol.
  24. As an electronics tech that worked on PCB level repair myself, I am entirely confident it is a dry solder joint that needs fresh solder for repair, which I have fixed on a dozen cars at least. Josh 1 - Zach 0
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