scotty nm35

Yes, most guys don't want pressure gauges fitted, it doesn't look too stock. I have a temporary gauge I use for most pump/injector installs. It's the last thing I setup before heading to the tuners. The Evo7 I rebuilt had a similar issue, it ran 65psi base due to having a 1.5mm restrictor in the fuel tank. I drilled the restrictor to 4mm and was able to drop the pressure to 35psi at idle, that was with a Walbro 460L pump capable of 800hp flow on 98. If you are seeing similar pressures you have a very small restrictor (1mm) somewhere in the return line, either the reg or something downstream of it. Some Nissans have a restrictor in the hose off the reg for some reason, usually banded with white. Local warranty isn't an issue until something goes wrong, and you really don't want something to go wrong with a fuel system. Sending a pump or injector back overseas for warranty is a waste of time when you can replace it for not much more than the shipping. Plus the Aus dollar is so crap these days, most parts are cheaper locally if you know where to look. The amount of knockoff regs getting around is a joke, just have a search for knockoff Sard regs and see how good they are at making them look the same these days. Fuel pumps are in the same boat. If you are happy running Ebay gear knowing it hasn't been rigorously tested, or perhaps doesn't work at all, I take my hat off to you, no way I would trust knockoff fuel system components... Even the legit ones have caused me grief in some situations. Hope that helps. PM me if you need more information.

I can definitely supply an aftermarket reg, but considering I have run 460L Walbro's on the stock reg, and Nismo regs, there is something not right I suspect. That pump is a Chinese copy of a Walbro, it isn't a 255 obviously. I would have left the old one, considering it had already been upgraded by the sounds of it.

Plumb the intake into the cabin, and shove the pod under the seat? Even under the dash would probably do...

He used an MLS gasket without resurfacing, or using Hylomar I would say.

This is the one I use, $30us or there abouts. Here is a link I found. http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=2&Product_Code=708-4739&Category_Code=tru-cool-hd&Product_Count=7

I'm guessing 3rd gear is absolutely fine, and the synchro isn't spinning up fast enough for you. A replacement synchro is less than $100 but the cost of someone to install it would blow out no doubt. Have you tried changing fluids? These boxes don't like gunk under the synchro, may I suggest you run some dextron3 through it first before giving up on a perfectly good box?

The TPS doesn't unbolt, it's a part of the throttle assembly.

No thermostat stock, generally you need to leave the fluid going through the radiator on a road car. I run a $30 inline transmission thermostat off ebay, the blue ones. You will likely see them if you look through. They are 10mm fittings so you may need to muck around with the 8mm lines to get it to fit. A trans cooler can never be too large, and it needs to be after the radiator outlet and thermostat. You will need to work out which line is pumping out and which is the return without making a massive mess preferably.

Can you get a multimeter onto the pump power wires? Might be time to take it to a mechanic...

Semi's fitted, boot full of e85... Bring on Sandown tomorrow. I just hope I can wake up that early, I struggled to get up at midday today.

Forget the piping, it's fine for much more. Surely you pressure tested the intake to check for leaks? The plenum gaskets are renowned for leaking between the halves when the engine gets hot... What's the exhaust like? Does it run a cat? Is one of the mufflers restricted? The stock BOV leaks badly at that boost. There is a few PSI gained from swapping to a Turbosmart Kompact which would lower the shaft speed.

No, no diff locking goes on with the Attessa, only a simple clutch pack with variable pressure to enable the front wheel drive. No centre diff either. The wastegate isn't opened, the actuator is usually 7psi and bleeds off up to 14psi. Snow mode just leaves it at 7, same as in cold start. It also takes off in 2nd gear apparently, and limits the throttle in the case of the M35.

Pre existing damage? It's barely a crease... And you told them about it before hand anyway. I don't understand insurance companies, they would likely call that a write-off due to not being able to source the parts. Any bumper repair place should be able to heat that up and smooth it out, depends if the insurance company is happy with that repair though, now they know about it. I have a Blue rear bar here, will need a sand back and respray, but it may be cheaper than the repair quotes if shipping is cheap enough. Otherwise scour the wreckers for a silver one?

You could be right, I have only checked out the DE closely. The HR likely has the better headers to help with flow at the top end. Yes, surprisingly good design for an OEM header.

I think the high kilometer Neo engine with more chamber squish and plenty of built up carbon deposits is causing the det, it probably has little to do with the cooler which is likely working as hard as it can. The whole 'lets guess a compressor design and trial it' has to have the odd failure rate too. You are probably correct that the original turbo is out of efficiency for this particular setup. Other than that, the new turbo making 300wkw on 98 isn't a bad thing, most would be happy with that result, even using a more expensive GT3076. If it were me I would have left the Blitz return flow seeing most of his customers will be wanting to run it anyway. There aren't many other off the shelf cooler options for the 34, not without hacking holes at least.

I have a spare VQ25 DD intake, not sure if they are the same, but I doubt the intake could make those kinds of noises. I suspect your cam advance mechanism has failed on one side or the other. If you try unplugging one of the blue plugs on the front of the engine to see if the noise goes away, if it doesn't, try the other blue plug. (Note: you will need to clear the code afterwards)

No problem with my 80mm intakes up to 400kw on e85. A stock looking bay is a priority these days.

Was it the HP pump Mike?

3.7L headers, they are true 3 into 1 tube design, not log like the 3.5L. They won't just bolt to the 3.5 cat though, you would need the 3.7 cats to bolt them on, or custom decats/highflow cats. I was hoping to make a jig for the 3.7 cats and make decat/highflow kits to convert over, but I just haven't had the time.

Custom stainless is by far the best, that way you can decide how loud you want it and tuck it up much closer to the body. Fitting is also included in the price. Never heard of either of those brands, but most kits come in from China with low quality components to keep the costs down. Hardly anyone makes decent quality exhausts in Australia anymore. If someone needs them I have a set of V36 headers here, they shit all over the V35 exhaust manifolds...

I have a few Stagea Attessa units which seem to have the same accumulator. They are all working bar the pressure switch. Do you know where to find replacements for those by any chance?

Google Fuelab pumps, even easier using their PWM output fuel reg.

Oh no, too much boosts...

As I have posted before, I suspect it is deposited on the injector from blow back of exhaust gasses as the intake valve starts opening. That's the only place I see black carbon coming from. It's very common in direct injection motors, worse so with overlapped cams I suspect. The other suspect is molasses from the heat in the plenum and hot rail. What worries me more is that only a couple were gunky. Could those valves have been not seating correctly? I hear the flow test came up with sticky pintles, what micron filter were you using again?

His motor is built, just waiting on some fittings to be dropped back in. Should be epic on a stock looking bay.