scotty nm35

Why not just use a pump with a built in PWM input and wire it directly to the haltech?

Gone larger Darren?

The new GTR will have ribbed tyre beads to stop the tyre slipping on the rim, but that would be related to being run flats more than just shifting under acceleration I assume.

They probably put a thinner fluid in, that would make the shifts faster. Did you supply fluids? Most transmission places just use Dextron3. It's what they put in my rebuilt 5 speed.

It sounds like the relay for the buzzer is sticky, and doing that may get it moving again. Anyway, good info.

Just use the Nulon Synthetic. Works great in the RE5.

No worries Rahul.

Are they saying the gunk caused the valve to not seat? I doubt it, it's pretty soft...

I think they are looking at it from the wrong end, I believe it is carbon coming back from the combustion chamber, as the intake valve opens. Similar thing happens in direct injection motors as the petrol isn't cleaning the runners. It is not in the flow path as the ethanol pushes that out the way. The modified 1000's are actually good for this, as the tip isn't large enough to gunk up too much. I doubt there will be a flow difference unless the filter inside the injector is blocked. Those 1000's I mentioned above had a little filter added in the top, which was the likely cause of the flow issue he had. I never run those little secondary filters anymore, they are too fine and block up easily.

Why a K+N? Don't say I didn't warn you. I only have a couple of AFM's left... Nice one, pics please.

I tried explaining that, unfortunately the cooler was blamed for the IAT too which is pretty funny. I think he realised it was the compressor that was causing the heat, hence the new turbo that was trialled.

That's the little pos I am talking about, if you left it in, good luck with that. It will just block again. Time won't have to tell you... I just did.

New core as above, you should be able to swap the CHRA yourself. Sounds like your oil feed was insufficient, the drain being blocked wouldn't starve the bearings, it would just push oil out the seals and blow smoke.

two TD06 turbo's made 500kw on e85 in Cat's car, at only 6-8 psi I think (gate pressure.) These are larger.

They are ok, if you don't mind waiting 45 minutes for your oil to drain. I removed mine, you can have it if I can find it still.

Pretty confident both would make your goal easily, on around 6psi most likely.

Damned Carbonetics twin plate clutch just went, stripped both clutch plates of their splines. Not bad after only 5000k's. Can't say I have ever seen that before. Anyway, box dropped today, clutch plates replaced and should be back on the road tomorrow morning, just in time to pull it all apart again and do the coilovers. The things we do to get to the track...

Did you push the rubber bung through into the guard? That way it won't ever happen again.

Better knock the drain rubber out so it doesn't happen again on the next downpour.

Where are you djtee? There is something seriously wrong with your car for it to be going through that much fuel, I doubt the o2 sensor will be the only issue, as the rich running will have ruined it. Could be worth sticking the Consult 3 on it.

Thanks Wolverine, for all the help you have returned to us. What have you 'upgraded' to? I just can't find much worth replacing my Stagea with.

You may need the DET fuel reg. Shouldn't have damaged anything, but checking the pressure is handy to rule that out as an issue.

Drop plug gap to .6, or better get some iridiums and gap to .5 Change coil harness, they are known to become old and shitty. Measure power at the coils and make sure it's 12v at least. Change to a better coil, or replace them with new OEM or Splitfires.

What are you trying to fix? I was hoping you had found a full English version and posted it up for us.

I have had a few blocked oem mufflers lately, try dropping the front pipe off and going for a drive. It's surprisingly not that loud.