scotty nm35

If a VQ30 fits, why wouldn't the 38? The VQ37 is a better engine design though, just sayn...

Depends how well you want it to work. Why would you need to drain the tank? A little petrol in the mix is fine, no need to be anal about it. (other than when you are tuning the engine)

Are you still on the side feeds Guilt-Toy?

No point whining about it, I heard every excuse for not running e85 in Sydney over the years, it's too far away to fill up, Caltex e85 isn't consistent, not enough servo's to run e85 daily... If more e85 was being sold they would have put more pumps in, end of story. I used to drive 22k's each way to fill up, in the snow with bare feet.

Hypergear: 0413 457 185 Or you can contact him through the email address in the Hypergear thread.

I get 110Mb/s on the mobile from inside my shed. Why anyone would want to blow their cap in 1min is beyond me.

Realistically you can setup flex fuel on any ecu with a spare 0-5v input, but as it's another sensor you are relying on and your engine may well melt if it plays up. Why not just go with two tunes and switch between them using the front panel or a laptop? A straight ethanol tune is the answer to your problems, as once you go e85 you definitely won't want to put 98 back in it and drop the boost.

Vq and Vr are nearly the same engine. Would be a great swap to see, especially if you can keep the AWD, but I would just stroke a Stagea VQ35 to 4.3L before wasting all that cash on a Vr38. What is the problem with the electronic throttles? The newer Haltechs run the twin dbw throttles.

I hope he runs BB chra's, otherwise the oil flow will be insufficient and it will most certainly ruin any bush core. Been there done that a few times. Learn from my mistakes.

I want to see the look on his face when you ask him to drop the turbo.

I have seen different brands of green coolant do the same thing. Flushing the block until it runs clear, or 5-6 times is the only way to be sure. I have always used tank water without issue, the local Natrad bloke swears by normal tap water. We both agree it's the mixing of brands that causes the corrosion, not the water quality. The best option is Evans coolant. No boiling, no corrosion and no expansion by removing water from the equation altogether.

If you don't flush out the old coolant, it will react with the new coolant you use, starting by making your new alloy radiator blacken within a few days.

So he is selling you a product and hasn't even researched, not even a little bit, about it's intended application? Yes there are 3 restrictors, and the oil pressure is twice what an RB runs. I have no idea what core he is trying to build so I can offer no advice on what needs to be done to increase the oil flow. Too much and the seals will leak, not enough and the bearings won't last long. Just remember, if it fails there is never a warranty on turbos from my experience.

I do. So do many tuners, they just keep it on the DL.

Stage 2... Not very descriptive. Hard to pass on Hypergear's prices, and results. No other turbo re-builder would be modifying your highflow with 38mm wastegate puck to control the boost creep, custom billet wheels etc, and all for $1250...

I sell Superpro swaybars, they are available locally for half that.

350z is a different plug, and the cam actuation is completely different. Only the latest 350z platinum pro revision will allow camshaft adjustment and control the throttle. Personally I think a Haltech elite would be better. Yes the throttle delay is in the ecu mapping. My Fcon doesn't have any of these issues, and if Mercury weren't so 'high and mighty' I would have gladly got the old oscilloscope out and told them exactly why it works so well. Until someone reverse engineers what HKS worked out 10+ years ago we are busting out heads against a brick wall and wasting time.

No, relatively hard I would assume. Many have tried before.

Only the pierburg pumps like to prime like that, not sure how the Walbro will go. A large external will do the job nicely it seems... I wonder if the magic part is ethanol tolerant?

Actually due to the smaller merge it would increase the gas speed and improve response, you would probably get the best outcome that way imo, especially if mated to a gate off the housing or getting a decent angle on the twin gate pipes. Extending the split further into the turbine housing, past the T3 flange and tapering it would help too.

I heard the dyno ate your next pair of slicks, and the set from the F1GP will be mine... suckah.

The rocker gaskets are only $25-$30au at Nissan, probably half that from Amayama but shipping will kill you. How much are you getting them for?

I still haven't gotten around to fitting mine, and probably won't be seeing I have the informeter. If Justin isn't making them anymore you could probably twist my arm to send you mine. Try and PM him so he gets the notification.

On the passenger side? The rear two can be mixed up then yeh? It's the coils where the plugs sit back to back you need to worry about, I have seen them mixed up many times, sometimes it's even my fault.

Why would you have issues getting the rocker gasket? I have three here, and Nissan get them in regularly for me? Don't bother with the pulley kits, keep everything OEM unless you want crank harmonics to destroy your main bearings.