scotty nm35

If you want response just run a .2 housing. At some point the rear housing becomes a restriction and the gas speeds can't get any faster. As the smallest part of the entire system, that nozzle is the critical point. Too small and you will have great bottom end, to large and the top end will romp at the expense of low down. Every rear housing is different and the nozzle isn't a particular size compared to AR, it changes depending on brand and turbo size. The HKS .64 is much smaller than the Garrett GT30 .64 for example, and was never designed to be pushing 300atw. Many have melted GTRS's at the track, and I am confident shoving a billet compressor which may flow up to 20% more air will only make it worse. Externally gated housing may help, but I haven't tried it on anything quite that small.

No worries mate, PM'd. You really need 2 fast cars? You are going to be broke like me.

Stock cats, especially on late model cars act as extremely good mufflers. Removing all 4 of them makes a huge difference. A highflow cat on the other hand makes no difference to exhaust noise. My opinion, run a single 5 inch body 200cpsi euro 3 or 4 cat and enjoy a legal highflow cat that will flow 400+kw. Emissions testing is only going to become more stringent in the future, and a black bar will dob you in instantly.

GTX3071 can easily make 300atw on petrol, something slightly smaller will be much nicer to daily, but don't choke the hot side, make sure it will flow well with a larger housing. .73 is good, I have used the Kando housings, the gate welds to them just fine, although I prefer the stainless Tial knockoffs. Hypergear have tested hundreds of combinations to suit your engine, so you may be best going for the tried and tested turbo's he sells, but I agree, it can be good to frankenstein parts together, especially when the results turn out better than expected. External gate off the housing is the go, but not a 38, I usually use the 45mm vband Turbosmart gates. Works better on dedicated external housings without the internal gate hole to slow the gas speed. Personally I don't like the flex sensor, it's just another part to fail. I stick to a straight e85 tune and swap back to petrol in the servo with a laptop if I have to. That is something I have never had to do, as once you go e85 you will never want to put petrol in again. The Haltech elite is the best answer if you plan to run the flex sensor.

Use their reg also, it has PWM output to control the pump speed directly.

I got one in the Cometic MLS kit when I built the 4g63, I was advised not to bother and run the Tomei instead. Depends how hard you plan to lean on it I guess. MLS head gaskets require a very smooth mating surface on both block and head if it hasn't been decked yet. More important is upgrading to decent head studs imo, but they don't make L19/625+ for the RB afaik.

No need to cut holes for cross flow intercooler piping, either run it up beside the radiator shroud or back around behind the cooler for that stock bay look. Either can support 400kw with a 3 inch core and 2.5 inch piping, just make sure the Ubend is smooth by using a tight donut bend.

Two pumps can be hazardous as if one fails you won't find out until you melt a piston, unless you have some method to let you know one has failed. Stick to a single pump for external duties. How much power are you chasing? the new 460L Walbro pumps some serious fuel flow for the price and hides intank... Unless you have a surge tank you are trying to setup?

Unfortunately the Skyline hangers are pretty crappy, there is nothing to stop the muffler moving side to side when you corner. This force is transferred down into the turbo/manifold, and the exhaust makes for a very long and heavy breaker bar. I always put a flex into the front pipe for this reason.

No bearing lasts for ever. Yours shows signs of being old but you may get many more years out of it.

e10 is crap, but not due to the ethanol content. Modern cars use wideband o2 sensors, depending how these are mounted the extra moisture in the ethanol can damage the heater element. Otherwise they should last many years.

I would say the flange isn't straight, or the exhaust is causing it. Do you have a flex join in the front pipe? Never heard of the dump studs/bolts snapping. Anti seize should be helping, but perhaps the nuts are crap too? They shouldn't be too tight or they will gall up and bind, especially if warm still.

Changing them now so you don't have to tune twice is the smart choice.

In b4 'you need gearbox weight oil.' Damn, too late...

Only if the tsunami got it.

Damn, I was hoping to buy the VG25 off him.

The AFM is a common issue, especially in the turbo VQ25, but it sounds like you may be having issues with fuel supply. I would start by checking the fuel pressure is within specs. Those high pressure mechanical pumps can fail, so can the one in the tank. Replace the filter intank for a start.

My suggestion is to service it yourself. The amount of mechs that have no clue with modern cars is staggering, and if you think Nissan will treat your car well, remember it's the apprentices doing the basic servicing in the workshop.

My opinion? Try searching using Google, you may get better results.

Low fuel pressure? Blocked fuel filter? Reg hose split? Have a look for things that will limit fuel flow. The pump could be faulty too Zach

Shame though, that turbo jetski on youtube was mental. e85 highcomp turbo jetski would be awsome.

Generally not suggested, seeing ethanol and water mix together. If water got in the tank it would lean out with no warning. Hope you can swim well.

Jetski's use injectors too.

Ok. I can check em out if you want to remove them. Or just grab some 1000's, retune and enjoy e85. What else are you going to spend all that FIFO cash on...

Oh... Sidefeed crap.