scotty nm35

I can test them if you want, if you are in town sometime...

Why? You realise they are totally illegal, will void any insurance you may have and will barely affect the braking performance at all... Just fit the 34gtt front calipers with decent pads and be done.

Some do, but you can easily see the reducer welded into the back of the muffler if it has one. cutting it out isn't hard and will improve flow, but personally I would be selling it, or keeping this catback for the inevitable defect. The amount of people that ask me for a legal 3 inch system... It's damn hard to make using local mufflers.

Does it blow smoke with the turbo removed? Have you compression tested the engine? I have seen many ball bearing turbo's leak from both oil seals, it is usually from way too much oil pressure and flow. Sometimes 3 x 1mm restrictors are required to stop the oil leaking down the dump. Of course you are wasting your time swapping turbos if the engine has a cracked piston.

Engine protection from oil pressure is a crock, it's too late by that stage. Can be good for logging though. A wideband is great, as long as it's working accurately, don't know if I trust it for your purposes... Unless you have a pair for redundancy. Just use it as a gauge for backup. Stock sensors are not up to the task generally, better to buy the Link/Haltech gear. As for the boost solenoid, just buy an industrial MAC valve off Egay. Keep it simple, the less sensors and wiring you have, the less chance they will fail and toast your engine.

Modern temp sensors (ie Bosch) are insulated from the plenum, they are also a lot faster in response. The factory location is perfect, and about as close to the engine as you can get.

I told you that weeks ago. So it's all good now? No need for larger injectors mate?

Don't re-gap iridiums. All I can think is you may have mixed up the coil plugs? But it would hunt at idle pretty bad...

Tapping into the head for VCT is a much better idea.

Well you would need to block the intake anyway, or all the air will just slide back out the air filter.

The G sensor is in all Stageas mate, but it only engages the awd system. No traction in mine, or stability. I know that for a fact.

Perhaps it was an option?

Depends on the size, Jap kits are usually metric, while you can only buy imperial in Australia generally. Probably around $150 if it's easy to get to.

The new Tesla drives itself, no need for feedback anymore.

1. No, the stock ecu will protect the engine pretty well, it will just throw you through the windscreen if you boost it too hard. 2. Make a bung for the intake and pump 25psi into it. See if it holds air, you should be able to hear any leaks, or use soapy water to find them. Sounds like you may have mucked around with the boost bleed setup, did you replace the hoses to the boost solenoid? There is a restrictor in one... 3. Your dealer should be able to source a base map if he deals with HKS, otherwise you will need a later model Fcon Vpro which has the base map loaded. Have a search, the info is here somewhere. Speak to your tuner about it too. That power target seems achievable on the SS1 highflow turbo, I guess you don't have access to e85 over there?

I looked into this with my Nissan mech mate, seems there are two Attessa computers at least, one of which probably has some traction/stability control. His is an ARX, mine a base model RS and they are different part numbers. I know Craigs ARX never had traction, or stability control.

Agreed, S/H pumps are not the best solution. Those new Walbro 460L turbine pumps are silent and flow 400kw plus. I sell them cheaper than that link too.

The missus A4 turbo made Sydney on one tank which I was impressed with, but the Evo only gets 200-250 these days. I was thinking to put a fuel cell in the boot, or fit the evo9 65L tank.

SS2 would do that on 98 fairly easily I should think.

Stance yo... Long range fuel tank perhaps?

Better get motivated and service the Evo for Phillip Island tomorrow. Furk yeh. Fit semis... Check fluids... Fill up 6 jerries with e85... Where the bloody hell am I going to put them all?

So it is to suit an aftermarket kit? Do you know the brand? I think you may need to custom fabricate something.

ADM >> That way Platts. Just do as you're told ffs.

You mean it doesn't transfer power to the front, it stays RWD, as would be expected when you cut the G sensor. Our engines don't retard or drop revs afaik. The V35 does, and it has the TCS light on the dash too.

Raising the pressure will lower the pump flow. Takes 10 minutes to swap the fuel hose over mate.