scotty nm35

Just go for a second hand one.

I bet I have put more tanks of ethanol through my set than anyone, without any issues... Blaming your injectors for a poorly filtered fuel system is a little silly isn't it?

Mine definitely has no traction, let alone control of it...

Stock engine, 6 heat range is fine, so is 7. Quite often I see 5 though which is too hot. Modified cars LFR7, or 8 if you have the coin for HKS tax.

Great upgrade. Every M35 I see has a leaky rear diff bush, very common.

Too fine and you will need to replace the filter element often. 40 micron seems perfect, fine enough to not block the injectors and coarse enough to not get blocked constantly. I haven't touched my Proflow filters in 5 years and 100's of tanks of ethanol. I should check them I guess...

I could make you one, or I may have something laying around... Can you take a pic of what you are missing?

Sean ftw, although he is getting out soon as there is no money in towing these days. It's cheaper to get a tow than a taxi.

It wasn't the fuel requirements, the filter was completely blocked and could not be blown through. It would have limited flow on petrol too if we had swapped back. Gregs wasn't the first with this issue, and it won't be the last. Keep it in mind when your tuner tells you your injectors are maxed on the dyno, it is very easy to bypass the filter and check it isn't blocked.

I have seen a few filter issues on e85 over the years, paper filters getting completely blocked within a few weeks, filters collapsing, spark plugs going red and only attributable to the filter... Why wouldn't you just upgrade to a 40 micron stainless version and know it will be fine long term? (100 micron on the inlet may be better if you must run something.) Personally, I wouldn't be running a filter before any pump, (other than the recommended sock filter) as it can cause cavitation inside the pump. They generally don't like restrictions on the inlet side.

^^ Needs to drive an Evo. lol.

I have noticed some big torque gains with my gate off the housing setup, enough to max Trent's hub dyno recently, putting it into emergency shutdown. lol. Power graphs only show so much, and torque graphs can't really be compared between dynos... Unfortunate.

No CV noise Nathan? That's a lot of extra angle, would make Uturns a breeze.

If the information is lacking, the answers won't be accurate. Nowhere did he say RB26 and the car listed is S15... I think you should Efix it for him Mick, that way when it blows up from unlimited boost you can feel less responsible.

Speed is done down the CAN line, the ecu doesn't output it and nor does the dash afaik. The speed signal comes from the ABS computer, not sure you want to go stuffing about with that either. Are you sure that plug isn't taped to another loom?

If you can't drop the pressure to 35psi at idle, there is still a 2mm restrictor in the line somewhere. Check in the tank, the quick release fittings are fine and not the problem. Anything smaller than 4mm you need to drill out

Came looking for titties, left dissapoint. Boost gauge is sourced off the plenum. If you can't find it, give up and pay someone to work on your car.

I found a 4mm return line restriction is the minimum requirement for a 460 Walbro, I had to drill the Vac generator in the evo tank to pass enough back (so I could run 35psi at idle) If you are still having issues, try dropping the return into a bucket and see if the pressure drops, then work your way back. If the return line is squashed or crimped under the car it will restrict similarly. Remember, when the decel fuel cut occurs the pressure will raise higher, and probably leave you with a slight rich spike when the injectors kick back in. Drill more than you need.

It doesn't, unless it has never been serviced, or the K's are stupidly wound back.

Have you checked the shaft play? If there isn't much you may just need another restrictor to slow the oil flow down. Good chance the bearings are toast due to high thrust loads though. If it is a Garrett core you may be able to change it over yourself, as long as the housings aren't cracked or worn.

Unleaded under $1 for the first time in years. Looking good Jet, wish I could club reg the Stagea.

Most realised they are sub par performance wise, and moved on to decent highflows, somewhere that actually tests and improves his turbo designs (rather than shoving a garrett core in the stock housings and hoping it will work.) Hypergear all the way, unless you have the coin for a custom externally gated turbo setup.

1200cc side feeds? Damn they are using big drill bits these days... Yes, they should flow enough, although the fpr may not bypass enough with twin 044's (causing high base fuel pressure.) I guess you don't care about what happens at idle and cruise though as it's track only.

It works on any computer controlled auto, driving the solenoids as a standalone unit. Have a search, there should be some good info around on programmable auto controllers and what they can do.

Good chance it will struggle, mine does, but I thought it was the auto controller doing that. I helped wire in a PCS controller on an RE4, there was nothing that box wouldn't do. Instant changes and kickdown, it was the only auto I have driven I would rather drive on the track over a manual box. Well worth looking into if you plan to keep the auto for a while...