scotty nm35

I have a few rails here. What are you trying to make?

Do you have a consult reader or similar to check for gearbox codes afterwards?

Just quickly looking into it, the pfc isn't designed for auto cars, so it's like putting a PS2000 standalone in there. You need to keep the stock ecu in place and intercept the engine sensors while replacing the outputs and keeping everything happy (no codes). If you have issues with this you would be best trying to find a decent tuner with an electronics background to help. I could give you the name of two in Melbourne...

Buy a cheap vac bleeder, you will thank me later.

On stock boxes? You would want a shift kit at least. If the PFC puts the auto in limp mode, different story. The line pressure will spike and the box will shift hard. You need to keep it happy of course.

Why would it matter? I have been driving with no timing retard on gearchange for 5 years, and I am still surprised how nice it drives.

Pointing an oscilloscope in the general direction of the output of a coil won't tell you the full story, coil efficiency and voltage output would perhaps be a more important measurement. I like to test things like this in the real world, no amount of bench testing makes up for a good hot load test at high boost and running rich. Personally the timing drift associated with mucking around with dwell on these scares me. I would prefer something that just drops in and allows 40psi at 1.1mm, like the Yaris coils apparently do. I will give some real world feedback on them soon seeing they are in and running fine on my evo. After running my original 13 year old VQ coils to 40+psi I have great respect for them, I don't suggest them for any other reason other than they work, I have nothing to make out of it...

Most regs only have a 2mm hole to return fuel, how could a 6mm line be a restriction if that's the case? Yes, the return is low pressure, but it won't be that much of a restriction. As long as the return can flow more than the reg needs to bypass (while the injectors are off) you are fine. Even better with the fuelab style reg which automatically slows the pump down. More important than the return line size is to remove (or drill out) the vac generator from the fuel tank, as most cars have a restriction in there these days.

It was an option, so all of the above?

Well the TD06 10cm was good for around 50kw more. Smaller housings will react better to external gates as opposed to the 1.06 Garrett internal, and such a simple way to get the results of a good top mount. I thought making 430kw from the stock rb25 manifold was proof enough... Don't mistake boost control with the gate's ability to flow.

It is interesting all the Toyota and Mitsubishi guys swear Yaris coils are the go, yet RB owners are unwilling to try anything other than these tractor coils... VQ coils are where it's at for Nissan engines.

I would be swapping the lines around, you want the larger one on the feed usually. Power isn't the measurement, it depends only on your pump capacity. If you had a 2000hp pump you will need larger lines and reg.

No, angle is more important. Google how a spray gun works and you will get some idea of why the angle is important.

Depends on the RWC tester. Vicroads generally don't care, as long as you have a roadworthy cert and the numbers match.

I have seen that fault many times, but usually one side not both banks. Sounds like you need to get it on a consult 3 unit. You will have more luck getting responses in the V series section... Where are you located?

No, but the return line on the Evo is 6mm. Try it out, should do the job I guess. Otherwise run a braided feed under the car.

The optimal mounting is to improve gas flow, which increases top end power. Simply venting the pressure at a 90 may hold boost well enough, but the gains won't be as great in my experience. This setup I do works very well, but I spend a lot of time die grinding the inside to get a smooth path into the gate. External gate housings are obviously preferred.

Funny, I have only changed one coil pack on an M35 ever, and I work on a lot of stageas. Sounds like you have another issue, perhaps in the loom? Check the plugs first, the 5 heatrange plugs can melt pretty quickly. I have a few coils here if you can't find something local...

Remove the restrictor? Perhaps the brake thread would have been a good read before you started...

Are you sure it's Tomei? There are some Very good knockoffs getting about...

Yes, it definitely needs replacement or possibly repair. What brand is it?

Fouled plugs is my bet.

This is exactly what happens. Should run rich though, not lean out I would have thought, but who knows.

A hub dyno doesn't require any downforce on the rear axle. If you strap a car down hard to get grip on rollers you lose many powerz. More power the more it needs to be strapped down. You can see why hub dyno's are prefered...

Depends how hard they strapped the car down too.