scotty nm35

http://racing.natsoft.com.au/results/ Click on circuit racing.

Not only is he lazy, he parted out the best car he will ever own. But he is coming down to be my bitch.

Judging by the size of the catch cans on the Sierra, they never quite sorted it out. The track sorts out all your issues, one way or the other.

The only change should be discharge air speed.

I have one stupid aftermarket tube here I removed off a 350z, you can have it if you like. I had to pry the afm out of the silicone they glued it in with. Replaced it with the stock airbox and piping. My point is, the stock airbox flows more than well enough, and the Ztube is just a piece of pipe. Keep what you have, it flows just as well, if not better, without the downsides of a pod. If you want intake noise, save an mp3 of a Lambo V12 and play it while you drive.

Vented catch cans are crap, on the road and track. Spraying oil vapours around your engine bay might sound good to you, but the guys driving behind will be very shirty when you spray oil around the track. Most good race setups I have seen use multiple catch cans, the Sierra's ran a large baffled can with a pump to return the oil if the drain couldn't keep up.

But that housing wasn't designed by Garrett, it was cast in some Mexican garage. The one the OP linked looks ok to me. Personally I would stick the .82 on the factory manifold, and stop wasting coin on manifolds and parts you don't need for that power level.

Not for the re4, but I have worked extensively on the re5. Sounds like you need to get your hands on the RE4 workshop manual. Have you seen the programmable PCS auto controllers? Will crap all over what you plan to do with the Adaptronic.

Why would the filter sticking out of the fuel cause an issue, as long as the pump pickup is in the fuel you should be fine. The direction the sock sits should have minimal impact, but of course sitting flat on the bottom of the tank or just above would be best. 45 degree socks are cheap enough for this not to be a problem anyway.

You can't reset any fuel trims manually, you need the Consult 3. My suggestion, put the stock airbox back in.

There is a big brake thread up top that explains it all, but essentially you want an r34 front calliper, otherwise you will need little spacers to fit the 12mm 32/33 bolts in the hub. The rears don't fit at this stage, hopefully some brackets are in the pipeline, but they won't be 'legal' 350z or V35 Brembos fit nicely, front and rear.

What is the wideband reading when you back off? Does it go lean then rich? The turbosmart reg should be fine unless the fuel pressure is set high. A lot of that light load tuning can be difficult to do on the dyno, if you have the software I would suggest having a play with the lower end of the map yourself if you are confident, or asking your tuner to clean it up a bit. Also make sure o2 correction is enabled, so the ecu can self tune the light load areas. The fuel requirements can change constantly with the weather otherwise.

What pump and injectors are you running? I have seen many cases where the fuel pump flows more than the reg can, especially when the injectors are cut on decel. It can cause rich hesitation. Do you have a wideband fitted?

I have A048's on the evo, spinz up all 4. Should have stuck a 4g63 in Mo.

I have seen plenty of e85 conversions done on the cheap, minimal gains but the other benefits can be a bonus. Should even work out cheaper to run. Simply running 30% larger injectors will do the trick on the stock ecu. Might be a bitch to start in the dead of winter though. Injector pulse width adjustment boxes are a cheap option also, but they need to be 'tuned'. (Like injected gas systems) or even bumping the fuel pressure is an option... It can be great fun playing with ethanol via simple methods, but I suggest you get a wideband fitted at least, just to check your wot mixtures. $130us for the WB o2 unit is hard to beat.

Why do people think the airbox is still a restriction? I have seen 500kw through a Nissan panel filter. 400 should be easy on the stock gtst airbox. What you need is some better fuel. Carry a jerry or two.

Still slower than the evo. Nek minut... R1.

There still spots? I though it sold out in a day. I know it was half full when I applied that arvo. Either way it's $180 for non WRX members like us. See you all there, should be a great day in the new track hack Taxi.

It most likely just needs a bleed, but that means the slave cylinder is probably rusted up internally.

Nice linear power curve, needs more midrange... Get e85 in her belly.

50 psi with Co2 jets on the intercooler.

Using the idle valve to catch a decel stall probably won't work well, there is lag involved. I have a similar issue on my evo atm, possibly related to large injectors, bov return or decel fuel cut. How long did he work on it? I used an EA throttle on my Stagea, and just blanked the iac off, using the throttle plate adjustment to bump the idle up enough. Have you tried winding some throttle in?

Ditching the afm element is a great idea if they are still in there Daz, I can't remember what ecu you are running though, was yours MAP? Also as Piggaz mentioned, cleaning up all the intake and outlet pipes should help a little, making sure the flanges are matched. Every little bit helps. Still blown away with the results from your 'stock' gtr, should be even more impressive when she is back on the road. I noticed you were selling the GTX's, have you got something better in mind?

Amayama do them for $90 or so I think. 10-15 minute job each if you know what you are doing.

Fail at some point? Hasn't it lasted well enough? Mine is still going strong after 13 years. Try Amayama for new pricing, I think you will find it's not worth the effort.