scotty nm35

3000 revs, definitely sounds like a split or popped intercooler pipe. Pressure test the intake if you can't find it by looking.

3071 in .63, then stick it on ethanol. Are you looking at the GT or GTX?

Most VQ's built after 2001 were electronic throttle, the 3L direct injection motor is one of these. I think you will find this conversion isn't possible without a LOT of work and a standalone ecu, like a Haltech or similar. Pretty sure the 3L never came out manual, and you would need to change all the ecu's to manual. This thread should really be in the V35 section to get input from the VQ guys. Search for the brake cut mod, this will improve the throttle response for $0 cost.

Well yes, of course. I can pull one out and measure the thread if needed, but the pressure rating may be hard to find. It will switch off at around 200psi then on again at around 180psi, but I am only guessing. The GTR runs 220psi I have read. Something close will do the job, although as my transfer case is slipping badly I was thinking a higher pressure switch may not be a bad idea...

http://www.wako-clinac.co.jp/product_en/ps-20_en/index.html This seems to be similar enough and can be specified in any pressure rating. Are you looking into it Rudi or did you need a hand with ordering the switch?

Hey Chris, welcome to Stagea ownership. The cracked rear subframe is not what I would call a common fault, I have only seen one cracked subframe out of the many Stageas I have worked on in Melbourne, although it seems to be more common in Sydney for some reason, possibly rougher roads or something. Does your car have Hicas rear steering? These Hicas cars will put more load on the subframe by design, especially if the car has been lowered. It isn't too hard to weld and repair the cracks, although if the reason for the failure isn't repaired first, the subframe will just fail again in the same spot. I suspect it may be due to worn cradle bushes or similar. I do have two non Hicas subframes here, but converting to non-Hicas has it's own issues. Where are you located? It would be good to get it on the hoist and have a look around for worn bushes, and see how bad the cracks are. It won't fall apart or leave you stranded as both sections are still bolted to the floor pan, but I would be looking to repair it soon before the cracks propagate further. Did you buy the car from a car yard? If so it may be under warranty. If you bought it privately you probably just found the reason the previous owner got rid of the car. This is why I refuse to buy a car without checking it out on a hoist first.

Agreed, I have 5 units on the floor that need pressure switches. As long as the pressure hysteresis is correct an aftermarket switch will be fine.

I was always told it doesn't work well as that area is under pressure when driving, so the air would actually be forced into the engine bay from the top and less would flow through the radiator, but your results speak for themselves Adam. I might need to try this at the track sometime. It would be interesting to place a few pieces of string under the lip to see which way the air is flowing... I suspect it's flowing out of the engine bay increasing airflow through the rad.

Here are the plenum halves, note, the secondary injector I used to use for cold starting on ethanol isn't usually there. The lower part looks very similar.

PM ARTZ, he is looking to offload a set of 750cc Xspurt topfeeds S/H I think, so he can upgrade to the new 1400 ethanol injectors.

Sorry, these guys are correct, it was the driveshaft hoop it hits on. Save your money, the stock airbox is fine.

This ^^ I was going to try insulating the rail, from the plenum using insulated spacers, and with that velcro heatwrap protecting the rail from radiated heat. My setup isn't too bad atm, as I have it returning to an 80L tank, but once I fit the surge tank it will heat quickly. It currently takes an hour or two for the tank to get hot on a warm day.

The coupe midpipe isn't worth fitting, it hits the swaybar and offers no gain in flow at all. The headers are the same as the 3.5 I think, although I haven't had a good look at the 3Ldd. I would be cleaning the plenum as a priority, you will get more gains by that than playing with the exhaust. High flow cats would be the best gains, but it's not like the exhaust will be a restriction at 100kw.

I made 20-30 kw when I shoved the 3.5 Varex on the back, ditching the Hooker, but I did get rid of a few bends at the same time. It has a restrictor inside to accelerate the gasses, as part of it's chamber design.

The studs are there so if the nuts come loose the exhaust can't fall off. You can simply drill them out and put bolts in their place. The VQ flanges are all the same, sometimes the studs are just in the wrong place, but the ports all have 4 threads around them. As for exhausts, nothing will fit the Stagea other than a Stagea exhaust. You are better off getting a custom stainless system made for it, with twin mufflers at the back if you like.

You wouldn't last 5 minutes down in Melbourne. Haha. The 3.5 inch Hooker mufflers have a 3 inch restrictor inside them, may as well go for a Chinese 3.5 inch muffler, it will flow better and probably be quieter. Has anyone tried a Dynomax VT? The flap blocks off like a Varex, but opens on exhaust pressure. I assume it will make the setup a little laggy but it intrigues me a little. Decently priced at $150 odd too. Could make a good mid muffler if it isn't too restrictive when closed. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191330618237?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Pump some air into it and see how well the T bolts hold, they all leak in the same place, as the part between the clamps has no pressure on it. Stick to standard worm clamps, and don't overtighten them or you will need to replace them each time.

Sounds like a leak, otherwise your turbo may not have liked the extra boost... In which case call Hypergear. Trusting in S/H turbo's will bite you in the ass most of the time.

Greg from a few posts up made 400kw through an auto, stock fuel lines, rail, Nismo reg. As we found, it was the shitty Ryco that held him back, probably the same reason most fuel systems fail the flow test. Not sure where the stock lines become a restriction because everyone just assumes they need to upgrade the fuel system by then. Now the Walbro e85 pumps are available, going to externals/surge tank isn't really required on the road, so more people are pushing the boundaries, while keeping the factory rails and lines for stealth.

I have seen 450kw on e85 through standard 8mm or 5/16 lines (or 6mm internal hardline). Don't know what he is on about, unless you have a carby and run 4psi fuel pressure?

Just weld it to the turbo housing.

For every person we hear from there are probably 20 we don't know about. Eventually they replace all the decent stock parts with fail parts, then sell the car after they realise it's farked. Those T bolt clamps are crap. Two norma clamps may hold it to 15psi or so, more than that it needs a lip.

They do, I just didn't want to be the bearer of bad news. His mech possibly ripped him off. There is no way a 6mm line would restrict flow that much anyway, the reg only has a 2-3mm hole bypassing fuel.

Look for a set of headers off a 3.7L, they are much better than the 3.5 headers. The V will have a shorter exhaust than the Stagea. G models are shorter again.

Where are you located? I have a couple here for the 25DET if that's what you mean... No, the 30 is different, both 30's, DD and Det I am pretty sure. The bolt pattern may be similar though, so die grinding may work...