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scotty nm35

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Everything posted by scotty nm35

  1. No worries Beau. What are you doing, an emanage tune?
  2. You are probably overdriving the output transistors and they are shutting down from overheating. If you want to play it that loud you may need an amp.
  3. There is the potential it will destroy your engine too. Why not just buy a Hypergear? Cheap, high quality thrust/bearings, properly balanced, with local warranty. I try and back the Aussie made products if I can... No way I would want to push an Egay gt35 to 150,000 revs.
  4. I have no issues, must be your solder.
  5. You have heard wrong, the stock paper/cotton filter is good for around 500kw in the stock airbox. A good cotton element would be my choice. K+N or other oiled filters will coat your AFM in crud. To match the quality of the cold air induction that Nissan originally designed you would be spending big, for little gain. The only time I agree fitting pods is a good idea is when chasing 500+kw, especially when two pods are used. A decent cold air feed from the front bar into a sealed chamber is best, you want to build up pressure in there preferably. This would probably be instant defect on a road car, so unless it's track only, just keep the stock airbox, it's fine.
  6. There are good reasons to use a standalone over an Emanage, and getting 300kw out of it will be pushing the Emanage to it's limits. You need to understand how they work, perhaps do some research? You really don't want the stock ecu dropping some timing in at that power, unless you run e85 and leave some headroom.
  7. I agree, you can get away with a 38mm if the flow into it is optimised. Just welding it on a 90 won't cut it. There is perhaps 200 rpm between the housings, there are also other housing options if you are going external gate. The Taiwanese stainless Tial knock offs are pretty good from my testing, and Kinugawa make some good ones in various sizes.
  8. Are you sure your missus wants that kind of power? Even 250 would be a handful in the wet...
  9. The 341/342 handle ethanol fine, and should flow over 300kw on e85 with a decent wiring upgrade.
  10. I make 330kw at all 4 through an unlocked stall converter, the GTX3071 will easily do it, on the stock manifold if you externally gate the housing. Even internally gated it will crack 300 on e85. The GTX3076 is a 400kw turbo on ethanol. If you plan to run petrol you may have a hard time making 300, but it could still get there if you have a great setup. I just don't like leaning on petrol tunes that hard...
  11. Are you planning to run a screamer pipe off an external gate? Otherwise you are thinking too small.
  12. I had issues with Denso iridium IKH22's, but NGK iridium 7's seem to last well in mine Johnny. Anything hotter seems to melt in a few thousand. As Trent mentioned, small gaps work well if misfiring, but be careful gapping them down they are brittle.
  13. No, I converted them for RB26 use and Greg sold them. I can help with new ones if you need a set. He was running them in his Neo, 34 4 door.
  14. You still have the stock ecu so can't my consult 3 plug into it to read stuff Greg?
  15. If you are in Vic, keep it all looking as stock as possible. You can still make the power using ethanol as a fuel instead of dino 98. Either a good return flow or custom piping cross flow will do the job, no need for holes to be cut.
  16. Are you running a PS cooler? I have seen way too many PS pumps fail at the track due to overheating, hence why I run synthetic fluid, in the hope it will protect better at high temps. Dextron 3 is a fluid specification, not a brand.
  17. Just leave the upper port/s venting, and run the hose from the cooler pipe, through the MAC, then T'd to the lower port/s. If you have issues holding boost you may need to replace the lower section of the MAC to the 4 or 5 port for the next tune. (the coils halves are usually similar and you can buy parts for them locally.)
  18. Any autobarn can do the Nulon synthetic for $50 if you ask. I would be flushing it all out personally.
  19. You should probably stick to the GT variant then, as it is more efficient at the lower boost you will need to run.
  20. How much boost are you trying to run? If the wastegate springs are close to the desired boost level you will be fine just controlling the lower port to open the gate. If you want to hold twice what the spring is rated to, you will need to direct boost to the top port, to help hold the gate shut as the exhaust manifold pressure rises. I use a 5 port MAC to control both ports directly, you can also use 4 port MAC valves in the same way. If you want to use the 3 port MAC you won't be able to bleed the boost off one port or the other, depending how you set it up. Turbosmart have a good tutorial on it... http://www.turbosmart.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/TS-0505-1001_Compgate40_MAY_12_rev_2.pdf
  21. Have you tried charging the battery? Sounds like the battery has dropped a cell, as in the plates are touching or something. If it's new take it back and get it checked, it may be under warranty.
  22. I have seen over 400wkw with the GTX3076 and I would expect it to hit hard around 4k, but it really depends on your setup. Externally gated and running ethanol will let you wind more boost in. Personally I prefer the GTX3071 for the road, as it comes on a fair bit earlier and is capable of 350 odd on e85.
  23. I had the same issue with the DW300 in an e85 Stagea, we replaced it with a 255. e85 Walbro's are hard to pass on for the $185 they cost.
  24. I doubt it's the fuel, I have run 10 odd tanks through mine. What interests me is there may be e85 near Albury? Where do you buy from Cam?
  25. Sounds like it just needs a vac bleed. I have a 370z clutch master here which may be the same part.
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