scotty nm35

I imagine just being submerged in the fuel isn't the issue, the bronze bush bearings will fail after a while without the lubrication of the petrol. Stick to pumps designed for ethanol/methanol and you will be fine.

Run a temporary power feed directly to the pump, my guess is it will run a lot better.

Shifting under full load is the best. You are correct, the larger turbo will make it drive like crap. Any tuning solution will reel back the lag and increase power, but there are drawbacks with any solution. The EMU will allow the stock ecu to control everything as it does now, this is great for sub 250kw power figures, any more and you will need the standalone imo. Pairing the injectors isn't a big deal, as long as they are the correct two. Get the order wrong and you will be spraying the fuel onto the back of a closed valve.

Do you have the torque graphs? I would be interested to see your torque gains running similar power output, on the same turbo.

Yes, but it only adds or subtracts from the factory map, which means the tuner needs to leave 4 odd degrees of safety, just incase the stock ecu adds timing. It works well to a point, but you can't really lean on the tune without a standalone.

What cylinder pressure do the stock bolts stretch is what you would like to know, but there is no common way to check that while tuning. It would also depend what heat stress the engine was under I imagine. Manufacturers use the stock bolts as a fuse, to let the head lift rather than have a catastrophic bottom end failure when something goes wrong. I had an MLS gasket let go on the VQ when my wastegate line accidentally popped off. I drove it like that for a year, not knowing what the issue was, just slowly pumping bubbles into the cooling system. It wasn't until I was on the dyno that the head lifted and the weep turned into a mess. Engine out for L19's and a pair of OEM gaskets. I would say 350kw is around the stock RB's head gasket limits with the stock bolts, but it would depend on fuel and timing. Not saying you can't push through that, you are just living on the edge imo. Some say you can drop new ARP's in without even taking the head off, perhaps it's an option for you?

I have seen many cars at Calder using bags of ice to cool down the trans and engine between runs.

I doubt it. It would have just been running high boost (14psi) all the time. Did you get it scanned yet? Did you unplug any coils while you worked on it? I have seen the plugs for them mixed up more times than I can remember.

Can you subtract timing though? I am only going by what my tuner told me. Yes, the earlier emanage ignition output transistors had issues from my research. I would go for a current board revision if possible.

You would be surprised I think Simon, smaller turbo's respond to ethanol pretty well, if the tuner is willing to push it that hard. PM me if you want some pricing, I will see what I can do for you.

I have pulled a few sets out that tell me otherwise, covered in rust internally, and some covered in molasses at the tip. I prefer the single tip injectors for ethanol for this reason over the 4 hole pintle. Not saying they won't last years, but long term use, I wouldn't run them. Highflowed sidefeeds are much worse, as the coating is cut through when they drill them. Top feed injectors and rail kit doesn't cost much more than the Nismo's.

Top feeds. Large side feed injectors can be problematic, and I wouldn't recommend them for long term ethanol use. Stainless Xspurt 1400's are the go for ethanol compatibility.

As long as the injectors are fired in the correct order it should run fine in pairs. If you pair the wrong injectors it will sound very lumpy down low, as they are just spraying onto the back of the valve.

If you are heading down the Emanage route, I suggest you look at the Emanage Ultimate over the Blue, as the Blue only adds. The latest revisions will be fine, don't buy second hand.

Two of anything is better right? I fail to understand the reason the solenoid is on the BOV, does it improve anything? Or does it just make tututu when the solenoid is off?

GTR's don't count?

If the master doesn't return to the correct point in it's stroke it will cause all sorts of problems. I agree, adjusting the pedal is where i would start. I have had many head scratching moments caused by this. Can you look inside the bellhousing and check the thrust bearing?

The teflon can break down after a while and clag up the syncro's making them worse. I only use the lightweight shockproof in diffs and (evo) transfer cases for that reason. I would be running fresh light gearbox oil, as someone may have just filled it on thick oil. They need to be able to spin up freely to mesh at those revs. You could try Dextron3 too before shelling out for a build...

If it were an RB i would probably agree, but I am yet to see any VQ's with valve stem issues, even with 300,000 ks. There is always the chance this is the first. Highflow turbo's though... Very common.

The hypergear highflow turbo's need 10 times the oil flow of a ball bearing core. I have seen many fail, usually very quickly, unless the restrictors are drilled out. My old ATP highflow didn't require so much flow, in fact it ran fine for years without drilling the sump banjo's, mainly because I didn't know about them then. Most likely the turbo seal at the turbine side is not sealing properly, but it could well be in the engine. Which path do you want to take for rectifying the oil burning? Personally I would be getting the turbo seals replaced first, as that is the cheapest option. Mine goes through a similar amount of oil so I wouldn't be worried about it too much, but I don't see any oil smoke in my car. One thing to try is to put a catch can on the PCV temporarily, to see if it has failed or is letting oil into the plenum.

I have been running Proflow/aeroflow stainless mesh filters for years without issues, they are obviously ethanol resistant as I imagine most modern gear is. Did you check out the SX filters? My SX reg has been great. I usually use Earls stainless mesh filters now, as I can get them cheap. What sort of power will you be running? That is a decent fuel setup... If you are planning on driving this on the road I think you will need to slow the pump down on idle cruise to minimise overheating the ethanol, and turning it to molasses.

I wouldn't run two 044's, not without some method of warning if one fails.

I would have at least checked one while I was in there, otherwise you may need to do the whole job again just to change the plugs. Can you remove one and check the gap?

A built box will take 400+kw, not sure I would push the stock clutches much past 300 personally, unless you want to build it soon. Don't run the manual valve body, get a programmable controller fitted and enjoy the variable line pressure, the manual valves are a pain on the street, unless you're setting it up for drags?