scotty nm35

The transmission is in limp mode, possibly the fluid temp sensor is faulty? You are going to need a Nissan consult I think, or a good reader with a consult adapter, to get the code. A good trans specialist should have this, at least then you will know if it's worth fixing.

VCT will only give you 20 degrees correct? Vcam uses the VQ35 hydraulic actuator, usually giving 40 degrees, but Nismo made a modified 50 degree setup for it. If you can get that to work, as in not hit the valves on pistons, it will give some pretty good midrange gains over VCT I imagine.

PCS is the only brand I have seen and driven, but I am sure there are more.

Magnaflow have straight flex in 1m lengths. What's it for?

These new matched 1400 sets idle and cruise fine Gareth, most tuners will be sceptical initially, as they would rather the tried and tested Bosch ev14's, but you will find these tune perfectly using the supplied dead time chart, as long as the Wolf can drive them. You may be able to add a resistor if the ecu really needs a low impedance load (but I doubt it), perhaps check the Wolf forums if a Google search falls through? How much power are you hoping to make? A single e85 Walbro is hard to pass on, cheap and it will flow 450 odd kw on ethanol, unless you have a surge tank? If so a Fuelab or similar pwm controlled turbine pump may be the answer imo, to combat the fuel heating issue on ethanol especially. Not sure there is a top feed rail available for the FJ, I am told they sometimes machine the injector tops down and make hose tails to suit the stock setup, otherwise a custom rail may be required for either11/14mm.

Too much cylinder pressure for the motorsport blocks to handle, but they crank out some decent power until the block lets go. I don't blame the current Sierra owners for running less timing and boost either, they used to run 6-700hp back in the day at stupid boost. They make the engines quick release for that reason.

27 pages of crap and you still refuse to fix the actual fault?

I run 45mm usually, you can't run too much gate imo, it only helps with top end power after all, but 40 will be fine. I can get the Turbosmart 45mm cheaper than the 40 at the moment. PM me for price.

I would say the idle air control valve is gummed up, pretty common. Have a search for cleaning IAC valve.

Do you know the model, or do you have any pictures?

Self tapper shouldn't damage them if you are careful...

Fair enough too, I just returned the only spare RE4 valve body they have left, as apparently us Stagea blokes don't return them if they only ask $100 deposit. You ARE getting it back after all. Who's doing the install for you? I have an entire RE4 from a 34 here I could perhaps sell you cheap.

Could be crank or cam sensors, it can be hard to fault find these without a consult reader and a few spare parts... I assume the plugs have been changed? If you still have an oil leak and it still smells after a drive, there are a few other things to check, the cam sensor Orings can leak, and the dipstick can blow oil out if it isn't in properly, or the seal is damaged. Both these will cause oil to burn on the manifold.

That would depend how much oil the ceramic bearings require, even with the braided line the oil will only dribble out the turbo end of the hose...

I would go with the Emanage Ultimate over the Blue, I have installed 10 or more recently on M35's and they work fine as long as you don't lean on them too hard. Remember the stock ecu is still moving the timing around, it's not set with the EMU, so you need to leave a few degrees timing spare. The hard part is finding a decent tuner willing to muck around with it, most won't touch the EMU, probably because they don't understand it's peculiarities.

Running petrol no doubt. E85 is the saviour, it has blessed me many times with its protective properties, allowing me to run 3-4 bar when the wastegate hose popped off and allowing pump surge at the track without melting pistons. Like I said, if you plan to lean on an engine, be ready for the tears. Anyone thinking it will last forever is just kidding themselves. If it happens to me, I won't be sooking about it, I will have another engine in it the next day. Until then I will keep enjoying driving it hard.

Pumps fail all the time, you don't see anyone else worrying about leaning out and unreliable or second hand old pumps. How many of you run a wideband in your daily drivers? There is no restriction in the non return valve, it is a simple flap of fuel resistant rubber, with an 8mm hole. The restriction is the reg with it's 3mm hole. I guess if someone does something different, it's always going to be wrong in your eyes, but hey, it works for me.

Because it is perfect, for me and my setup. I guess you just don't appreciate the hard work I put into it, designing a failsafe system on my own, using a single reg and return when everyone on here was telling me to go 044's or Weldon noisy crap, and here you are, still trying to tell me it will fail catastrophically, many years after I installed it on my daily. Would I do it again, hell yeh. Would I fit it to a customers 34, no. I would run the e85 Walbro these days on single rail setups, as I mentioned 30 times in the last year. I can't see where the recommendation I made was going to make people follow my twin Walbro path, but if they did I am more than willing to give them all the information I learnt. I would however be recommending the e85 Walbro over any pump for intank duties. Anyone tripling the power of their car should be willing to replace a stock engine, that much is common sense.

All done, it was me in some old thread that told you guys the non return valve trick as that's what I designed so many years ago. At least if one pump fails it runs on 3 cyl. No down sides in 5+ years on ethanol, I guess you just need to get off your high horse, it was much smarter for me to go this path than the loud external crap you guys were trying to push me into back then. Like I said, a 255 was and still is worth $100. In my opinion the tank lid should be upgraded in every setup (due to ineffective power terminals) so mounting twin pumps on the new lid assembly is simple, for me at least. Blowing an engine... Oh no. I have 5 spare VQ25det's here at the moment, but the original VQ is still going after all these years at 30-40psi. Who gives a crap if it lets go... It should have blown years ago.

I wouldn't be using a file, I would glue a sheet of wet and dry down to a piece of glass or something else flat.

The appropriate single intank 416 wasn't available when I installed these 5 years ago, nor was the proof the 255's were ethanol suitable, unlike the petrol Walbro. Seeing I am using twin rails with twin lines the twin Walbro setup works very well, no down sides at all. Even the cost of two 255's is similar to one 416 e85 pump.

Does he realise there are three oil restrictors in the sump? I can tell you there isn't much oil supply at the turbo...

I must have been looking at the non HP Walbro current draw.

My 255's have been going strong on ethanol for 5+ years, no issues so far.