scotty nm35

Looks the goods, but I think you will have boost spiking issues unless you open up the wastegate hole and run a larger puck... What is the thrust load tolerance like with the ceramic bearings? The small rear housing will cause a lot of pressure on the shaft. (partly why the Garrett cores have so many problems when shoved in the stock housing.) I look forward to seeing what it can do, when is it getting tuned?

Crap mufflers make awful sounds, not Stainless piping.

Compared to the Walbro 416 as stated in the name of the thread. ^^

A duck whistle should fix that, just glue it in place of the 'LASER' I always wanted to know how a whoopie cushion would go if you chopped it up a little and plump it back under the passenger seat...

Pumps do draw much more current when they seize, I had a new Walbro draw over 25 amps when seized, caused by testing it with water then sticking it on the shelf for a few months. As for why, it doesn't take much in the way of crud to jam a pump, most run an oil pump style gear which has tight tolerance, and the shaft will flog out quickly if there is any cavitation (as they only have bush bearings.) You should cut them open and see what jammed or failed. Were the socks clean and clear? Did you use the supplied sock filters or the OEM one? There is only one pump I would fit back in there, an e85 Walbro, as they are a turbine design and less likely to fail.

No thread lock, perhaps a little anti seize. I still have the rear ones I think... Would have to check.

Because right after the cat is too hot I would imagine. By the exhaust tip it has cooled down enough, and will only read a little leaner, which means the engine is a little richer. No big deal.

Perhaps $50? Locally they will be much more, especially Nissan ones.

Stock boxes are taking 300kw easily with a shift kit, why bother...

Seal kits aren't hard to find, I actually have a spare kit on the shelf for the fronts. Painting them beforehand is a good option, as the paint can cover the seals (you are replacing them anyway) The stickers are available on Ebay.

no, the correct tap. I am on my second wreck, a silver Axis.

Yes, all cars are designed to be lifted at the sill, many workshops use flat rubber pads to spread the load, but there is only 1/4 of the car's weight on each pad. The issue comes when dropkicks jack from one sill with a trolley jack and don't take care/spread the load.

My wreck? Sounds like you will need to run a tap through the threads at the very least.

Why not, sounds fine, as long as the Nismo flows enough for you now...

I thought sand was the correct thing to use for self honing.

Farkem. No way to prove they are at fault. The issue isn't the oil on the hotwire, it is the dust that sticks to the oil and insulates it from the airflow.

They have been discontinued for years, replaced by the Informeter touch. If you can find one, perhaps $250 new? I would get a S/H one.

Should I contact them to replace all the AFM's I have blown from running them, and all the customer's ones? I am sure they would love that email. lol.

My crappy Innovate LC1 worked perfectly for over 4 years, including track work. The same sensors are lasting perfectly well in OEM situations for many years. If the car manufacturers are fine with them, so am I.

Not with bluetooth or Wifi that I know of, but the Greddy Informeter works... What do you want to know? For diagnostics you need a Consult reader and laptop.

Yes, you can bin the crap and use a decent cotton element, like Blitz/Greddy etc. Even a paper element would be better than the K+N.

Any sensor is only good if it is tested and compared while in use. A $1000 lab sensor can easily get carbon impregnated and fail (usually from running cars too rich) just as easily as a $100 Bosch sensor. The best option I believe is to compare the dyno gauge to the in-car Wo2, that way you will know something is wrong when there is a discrepancy. Of course you will need a third to check which one is faulty... I have been to many dyno's over the last few years, and fixed a few also, most of the tuners down here are using Bosch sensors as they are cheaper to replace when they fail.

You could use your vin to check parts, that way you know they are correct. EPCdata then Amayama. As Alex said, the plug tube gaskets are not replaceable, you will need the entire rocker cover which will set you back $250 odd. As the oil only weeps in, and the oil is an insulator, you have no problems if you ignore it.

Actually, the Ohlins I have here do. You understand they are just a grub screw underneath the cap, and the clicks are caused by notches with a ball and spring inside the cap. The amount of clicks has absolutely nothing to do with the range of dampening or the quality. If you think it does, you are just plain wrong. Keep spreading the 'Bilstein' fanboi rubbish Johnny. Dampening needs to be matched to spring rate. If you just buy Bilstein's and whack any cheapskate (King) spring on there, you will never have the correct dampening. (unless SK sends the springs and adjusts the valving to suit) At least with coilovers you get some adjustment, that way they can be set close enough if you are competent to do that. If not you could just pay someone to corner weight them and set the dampening in the ballpark. My point is, for the price the BC's are a very capable unit. They will never compete with competition coilovers with rebound adjustment and gold plated valving, but they are very well suited to a road car, if you select the correct (softer) spring rates. Mine are still going strong 5+ years on, and considering they cost less than replacement stock shocks alone, they are a no brainer.

Just having it for fault diagnosis it's worth it, even if you don't do any tuning. If there was one aftermarket gauge to have on the dash, on a tuned car, this is it.