scotty nm35

Looks nothing like the external Vband housings I usually modify for external gates off the housing. Why do you have your heart set on a 39mm PT gate? I can get Turbosmart gates pretty cheap atm...

Shocks need to be matched to your spring rate. You can't just drop in any shock. This is why I recommend the BC's as you can adjust the dampening to your requirements.

It will be sucking shut already when hot. 250 is about the most they take, even with a 3 inch bit of pipe inside the ribbed part.

If the steering wheel doesn't wobble, good chance a rear wheel is causing the vibration. Did they mention a wheel had a buckle? The centre tailshaft bearing could cause similar symptoms if it were flogged. You need to get underneath while it's on the hoist at 70.

I am going to be spectating this track day, the evo isn't ready yet. See you there guys.

It is not the same part, the one you linked is for the exhaust side, the one on your engine is the intake. Similar design, but not the parts you require. Your advance mechanism is faulty, broken or worn mechanically. I have been able to rebuild these assemblies using parts from other advance units but if you are chasing a new assembly you will need to use your Vin and chase the correct up on epcdata or Nissan. There are many other threads on the knocking noise, here and in the Stagea section, as the VQ25dd, VQ30dd and VQ25det use the same advance mechanism, and all were available in either the Stagea or the V35, as they are essentially the same car.

What engine do you have? It would be a mission, but changing every ecu in the car might work if you have the 3.5L, the direct injection engines you would have no hope. There are plenty of other devices that do work...

Some early V35's aren't OBD2 compliant, June 04 is when it became mandatory to comply with OBD2 emissions laws in Japan.

Plus the 150,000 they knocked off the odo in Japan.

I use the front sill jacking points, but you need a large rubber block to spread the load from the trolley jack. For the rear I use the diff.

Well yes, you need to pull the engine from the car. You will find all the parts are completely different from the VQ35, it uses hydraulic camshaft actuation not electronic like the VQ25/30. Are you sure you read the thread?

Jap piping is metric, it will most likely be 60mm. I can supply most metric sizes (and metric to imperial) if you need something in particular. Otherwise heat the smaller size silicone in boiling water and slide it over.

Have you read this thread yet? http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277914-any-direct-injected-300gt-250gt-v35s/ I will try and respond to this, just a little busy for the essay required atm. What oil are you running, and how cold is it where you are atm?

With enough heat shielding it will be fine. My Turbosmart is mounted closer than that, but I wrapped thick fiberglass around the diaphragm housing to protect it. More critical is the entry angle to the gate off the manifold/housing. It can't be at a 90 degree, 45 or less.

It really depends on the chamber, and how many hot spots there are for detonation to occur. The VQ35 is a pretty good modern design and still had issues, mainly as the rods couldn't take it. The 12:1 comp FT86 engine can handle plenty of boost as the direct injectors don't spray fuel until after top dead centre, No fuel, no det.

Sikaflex bro.

Hardly $100, cotton panels are $20 in the states, we just get raped with retail prices. Autobarn tried to sell me a BMC panel for the Evo for $130 the other day.

There is a LOT more surface area on an OEM style paper filter than any aftermarket cotton or oiled style panel I have seen. I'm not surprised they flow well.

That's a defectable offence too...

But my bright yellow Evo doesn't get looked at. What happened this time, were his tyres too black?

Best bet would be Ebay, US is very cheap if you can find a decent postage rate. Greddy do a good one, even a Drift one would work well I guess.

Bad fuel isn't going to drop boost. I would suspect the BOV is blowing open, or you have a major boost leak. Pressure testing the intake up to 1.6 bar would be my first check.

The mid muffler is only a small resonator, it will sound hellish loud with the rear muffler removed. I did similar on a Sirocco recently, running twin tips to the back, but I fitted a Varex mid muffler so he could quieten it down as needed. It worked great, still loud as fark though.

Kill it with fire. Oiled filters should not be anywhere near an AFM, and I have had better results with Blitz style cotton elements, they flow 500 odd kw.

I wouldn't take anything GCG say too seriously, they have made some monumental screw ups over the years, and I wouldn't trust them to shove any core into one of my turbo's.