scotty nm35

They are actually 1mm restrictor banjo bolts, M12 x 1.25mm. 2 are in the sump, one on the side of the block.

Cutting holes is pretty stupid considering it's an instant defect in most states. There are a few ways to get the piping through without hacking holes. Most of the 33/34 setups I do have return flow coolers, with stock piping in the engine bay. None have been held back much, infact a few have impressed me with their results. If you are trying for dyno queen status it may help a few KW, but otherwise more boost will force more airflow through. I had similar conversations with the Evo crowd, Plasmaman popped up a few times, but I managed my 300awkw goal on the factory airbox and cooler for a full stealth look, without wasting coin on parts I didn't need. It may make 10 or 20kw more with an expensive cooler kit, but that isn't value for money to me. I guess it depends who you are trying to impress with your mods...

I just fitted a stock M35 BOV into a 33gtst, bolts straight in, so I have no idea what's going on there... The only car I have seen where I couldn't get rid of the juddering was actually running 21psi due to having a 1 bar actuator and still running the stock bleed circuit. What boost does it run on a big uphill stomp? If it's too much that will be your answer. the stock ecu is in protection mode and dumping fuel.

5 revisions... Trial and error isn't the best way to design an M35 turbo. Too damn hard to fit, especially to a stock car. Good to see you learning something along the way, although an apology about bagging my stock actuator spring mod wouldn't go astray. Who is tuning it? Would be good to have more tuners interested in working with the EMU, but they might have a steep learning curve.

There will always be coolant in the block unless you drop the drain bung under the thermostat, but it's a pain in the arse to see in the car. No way will it flush properly with the thermostat in place, unless you have an old thermostat body you can destroy and remove the valve. I wouldn't be doing any of this without the coolant mod personally. Good chance you will do a head gasket as it is nearly impossible to bleed first time. Probably should have put your money towards the kit instead of replacing the bleed point with another plastic pos.

My suggestion, block the kent off and see what the response is like. It is a good way to see what the boost is actually doing too. Do you have a good boost gauge? The only time I have seen shuddering is when the car is running over 20psi untuned.

Pretty easy to change the sprocket seeing you have access to an english manual. No need to change what isn't broken. Chains can last a lifetime if they are suitably lubricated, in other words if the oil has been changed regularly. I would be replacing the tensioner guide at least though.

Slotted, drilled or dimpled, they all reduce disk surface area to cool the pad at the expense of the pad which wears quicker. More surface area provides stronger braking force. Personally I would be fitting solid disks for the road, and then chose the correct heat range pad for your driving style.

Oh, you bought matching stall valves...

Unfortunately you gained a little lag by ditching the converter, this can be worked around by accelerating more before side stepping the clutch pedal.

Yet... Let it melt back a bit more. Poorly designed 'drop in' turbo considering most of you are running the exact same JJ dump.

Loctite doesn't work well with heat, but if you jammed the bolt into the bottom of the tapped thread it should work fine, done it myself on a few desperate occasions. How did you go with the 1mm drill bit? I have snapped a few off in them too.

Great job Beau. like we discussed the mechanical side was bound to work, good to see the electronics didn't play up. I would probably get it on a dyno to make sure the curve is similar and the throttle is opening fully. Also that the cams are operating correctly, but it's looking promising so far. What are they doing with the reverse light etc?

I have one here, second hand on Ironpaw's old engine, with the long bolts etc.

Apparently, due to them being BB core they needed less oil flow. Order a couple from Amayama and check them out. Can't be too expensive.

Sounds like bull crap to me. Even if it did need a patch it would only add 5 minutes to an already simple job. (as long as they had the patch file.) More likely they are trying to make some coin out of you incase the car is a headache. I have sorted many M35's and V35's using consult 2, 3 and 3+, consult 3 is by far the best to use. Other than Nats there is no need to go to Nissan, many decent aftermarket scanners should work. (Snapon, Launch etc) $150ph with a 2 hour minimum? I need to put my prices up.

All you need is a good second hand cam advance mechanism, it isn't that hard to change. They are usually very reliable.

I think I got it down under 2 seconds, wasn't too interested this time due to the heat, couldn't push the car like I wanted to. I will get some videos next meet, heading back up soon after the retune. It was funny feeling the back end step out on launch, I have never been able to launch on boost like that before. Loving this new turbo.

Don't know if it's a great idea, mild and stainless have different expansion rates,it will likely crack eventually. Anyway, it's a GTR, it will just sit in the garage most of the time so it should be fine. Some of the best sounding exhausts I have heard are stainless, but perhaps I never realised rust can improve the exhaust note...

I must admit, I have done a couple of track days in the Evo and have failed to spin one bearing yet...

Yes Phil, you can buy different springs for them, but I bolted mine straight on and it worked well out of the box. I guess the tune is compensated nicely, although I suspect it has a lot to do with the design of the 3 inch intake too and how the return is plumbed back in.

Shouldn't be too hard, just need a cool night and some more boost. Unfortunately my map sensor is out of resolution, need a 4 bar map and a retune.

I have never actually seen a flogged ball joint on the compression arm, but I guess some cars are getting on a bit. Usually it's just the bushes that go. Are you sure he didn't mean those? I have a couple of spare second hand arms here if you need them.

Yep, managed a 12.3 in 35 degree heat, not too bad for a whale.

Today? Didn't see me heading up to Heathcote last weekend did you?