scotty nm35

^^ this. Make sure the camera is rolling on the dyno.

That sounds like on boost surge, not something you want happening ever. I suspect the turbo wouldn't last 3 laps. Make sure you tell Tao you plan to track it when you ring Hypergear.

Vehicle specific discussion. ^^ I am picking my 7 up today finally, from the engine builder/mech. Still a lot to do, shame it was pinging on the dyno due to leftover old 98 in the tank. Back there soon with 1400cc injectors, Walbro 460 and a belly full of e85. Will post up a thread later hopefully, if I get time.

Yep, no problem. PM'd.

I have sold many base model M35 s/h facias for not much coin. Why would you buy new from Nissan? Have you tried Amayama? Metra is overpriced shit.

What do you mean no detail, I explained the issue and told you how to fix it. Do you need it laid out for you on a silver platter with a youtube clip? If so it's not a job you should be attempting at all. Do you understand the implications if you stuff this up? There is a very good chance this will happen for a few reasons. I am the only person to change it without dropping the entire engine from the car.. Yes it can be done without dropping the engine, I have done this many times... Did I take detailed pics? No. I wouldn't want others trying this at home, ruining their engine and blaming me for it. Drop the motor and do it properly, cam timing is not something you want to get wrong.

It's very hard to explain something to people that don't want to listen Ben, but good on you for giving it a go. We have only wasted more of his money, somehow due to his mechanics incompetence.

I have one if you can't find it locally Pete.

Agreed, to do TS properly costs way too much. This is pretty much what I did, changing the GTX3076 for the GTX3071, it was night and day for response, with very little loss in my case. If you can get a good price for the 3037 I would say go for it. Do you want more power? Otherwise drop a GTX28 on there and run ethanol. Response and power.

There are many tutorials on ruining engines. It's not something even a mechanic would try, let alone a DIY. Good chance you will ruin your engine by bending every intake valve. Taking the assembly off the cam is easy, but then the cam chain doesn't have any support. If it skips a tooth on the crank you are screwed, engine out, unless you start it, then its time for a new engine. For this reason I always turn it over by hand a few rotations, just to make sure it's all in alignment. Quite often it isn't. If you can find someone to do the work, they will still need to learn how all the parts integrate. It's not something I can explain in a Youtube video. It has taken me years to learn by rebuilding these components over and over, and assembling various engines out of the car from scratch. Try reading the workshop manual, it might help you understand the complexity of the various cam assemblies. If you were local I would be more than willing to help.

What plugs are you running, obviously not the correct quad earth's, they are impossible to find.

Chinese knockoff direct injectors... I don't think I would take the chance.

1 bar is stock boost. If it has my HD actuator, it should run 17-19psi.

^^ That is for adapter plugs. I can do crimp on plugs for half that. If anyone wants these but are worried about them being used, I can flow test them for a minimal charge. Removed due to upgrade by myself.

Great! A new section for go-carts. I will start a build thread soon Deza, I just need to get the pics together. For a 7 grand buy 2 years ago it has come a long way. I only drove it for the first time last week.

You got to read more Jamez. All this info and more is here if you search around.

^^ this. Or the plug for the sensor is off. Or the sensor is covered in crap or faulty.

Wastegate flutter? You have a screamer pipe? How would you hear it otherwise? I would drop a new AFM into it.

Yes please Christian, I just finished my evo7 engine build, would be nice to have somewhere to put the pics.

What coil packs are you using, and what plugs? The chance a direct injector is stuck open and leaking is slim. You can't remove them easily, they use piston ring style seals around them. They are very hard to remove and refit for a reason, as they need to hold in thousands of psi pressure on combustion. As I have said, get them done by a specialist.

It has one of my high boost actuators on it by the sounds of it, what other mods have been done? Sounds like it's in limp mode. Is the engine lamp lit?

Until you get a small air leak. Then you may be stranded on the side of the road, or worse, a large air leak and instant stall. It happened to me many times, the higher the boost the more it's an issue. I was so glad when I could ditch the AFM, then I found out the auto box needed it for line pressure adjustments so it's still there.

Because the electromagnetic Attessa control computer won't slot in, which makes it all too hard.

Easier to just buy a Haltech and be done. You can't beat a map tune.

Not on a hub dyno, if the gear ratio is entered correctly...