scotty nm35

They have plenty of meaning, that is how they tune for maximum best torque. As long as no variables are changed then torque output is a critical component of seeing the performance gains of mods. Of course comparing torque figures between dyno's is gayer than comparing dicks.

How good is the price? You haven't asked me to quote you for those, as you wanted s/h ones or cheap Siemens 610's. As long as you can return them if you have any issues, without paying $80 to ship one back to China or the US.

They would be PWM electromagnetic actuation.

It depends where you are measuring them from. 3/4 length is generally what you would ask for. Greg's ones weren't in the car long, running ethanol. He upgraded to the stainless 1400cc ethanol/methanol tolerant Xspurt injectors.

Sounds like you have a 2 way diff in the front.

A s/h RB is worth less than the Accusump though.

I noticed the other day, the M3 BMW runs a similar thing standard, just a small one, perhaps 100ml or so strapped to the side of the block with a hose running up to the head.

The only protection against lack of oil pressure is cutting ignition altogether, ie switching the engine off. Even then it is too late most of the time, especially with an RB26. This is not something you want happening on the track with someone up your arse. Personally I think logging the pressure is more important, which the Haltech can do, you will find the pressure changes constantly but pressure should never drop too low. If it does you obviously need to sort out your sump baffling etc.

Mine is in a similar condition Johnny, 200,000+ks, goes through 2L of oil in 5k, the bores were very scuffed when I had the head off. It just refuses to die, even my tuner is amazed. It still cops 32psi daily, i'm not tracking it anymore but it survived 8 track days, overheating to 150c quite a few times, and over 200 power runs on the dyno... Some of which caused a head to lift. The only reason I think it is still going at all is because I have a spare engine waiting to go in. If I sold it the engine would blow the next day. Regular maintenance, good fuel and tuning are my reasoning though. To the OP, rip the head off, if there is anything wrong it's time for a wrecker motor I think. Make sure you can compression test the s/h motor in the car if possible, and check the oil filler cap and inside the rockers for carbon buildup which would indicate poor servicing with crap oil.

the pressure switch on the hydraulic pack can be changed for a higher pressure hysteresis I think. I have 5 Attessa units here to fix, all need pressure switches anyway. They switch off at 220psi stock afaik.

Now illegal on AFM equipped cars for this very reason apparently.

After chasing MAP faults on many cars, I now realise how important a smooth MAP signal is. Some sensors are more accurate (or faster) than others, which can make matters worse as the signal jumps all over the place, this can make your ecu drop into different cells constantly. Where you tap the source from is critical, and anything you can do to smooth the pressure waves before the sensor will help the tuner no end. Even moving the map source around in a single plenum changes it's signal a fair bit. Furthest from the valves is best, but you don't get much choice on the 26, which is why I suggested a chamber.

^^ This. CRC do an AFM cleaner. Make sure you let it dry well before plugging it back in, as it has a microprocessor inside.

Lack of fuel, too much unmetered air... There could be a hundred reasons. Fault finding like this can be a headache without a Consult3, it might be worth taking it to a mech. Where are you located? Intank injector cleaner won't unblock an injector, the only way to test them is to see the spray pattern and measure the output flow. If you were local I could do it for you cheap, otherwise if you can rip them out and get an injector specialist, or ship them down to me, they can be easily cleaned and tested. Have you changed the fuel filter at all? 8 years on the original might be pushing it, but if the fault is intermittent... I doubt that is the cause. Could be a bad plug or earth problem. You could get the voltage at the injector plug checked. Like Alex said, a vac leak could be the cause, especially as it seems to be low down more so than up high in the revs. Check the brake booster isn't leaking, or some hose hasn't snapped by pressure testing the intake. The AFM could be dirty or covered in oil, especially if you have a gay K+N pod hanging off it...

Fuel filter? Blocked injector? Sounds like it's running very lean.

I think it's just worn out Peter, I have another 5 here though. Perhaps that's a better option, although bumping the pressure on the hydraulics isn't hard either. I assume you can fit more clutches by using thinner plates between, similar to auto transmissions? I will speak to you about it next time I get over to Edge mate.

An electromagnetic clutch has it's benefits, simplicity being one, but I like the hydraulic pack. I am having transfer case slip atm, I was thinking of bumping the attessa pressure to compensate and hopefully help the clutches last longer in the next transfer case I fit. With electromagnetic you would have little control over clutch pressure, but it would be steady.

Late model M35 Stagea 3.5L use the same system. I don't think there is much information on them though.

Take them to an injector specialist and get them tested if you are worried. If the injectors are fine, you likely have a short in the wire to the ecu, or the ecu is faulty. Is there any water dripping on the ecu, or water damage inside it?

No, your car is direct injected. It probably uses the same direct injectors as the VQ30dd, but that would be it. Are you sure it is the injector and not the spark?

From the base tunes I have seen you do a very good job of this. Great work Matt. When are you starting on the VQ25det?

The stock manifold is good for 500+kw, I would be putting the coin towards better rods and head studs.

If you can find them, Nissan will probably need to order them in from Japan, and you will get quoted $200 odd each. One of the cam sensors is specific to the VQ25dd. I prefer to find out which sensor is stuffed first and change that.

Probably the sensor. Without getting my Consult 3 reader on it I can't do much diagnostics. The tiptronic drops into 4th on the 5 speed box, it only goes back to first if you push the gear down - lever.

You probably fouled the plugs. Try cleaning them with brake cleaner or carb cleaner, or drop another set in. Might be time for a new CAS.