scotty nm35

You can look forever, you will never find one. Our VQ25's don't have an intake valve control solenoid as they don't use a hydraulic actuator. Here is the VQ25 electronic cam timing control assembly, it is completely different to the VQ35 setup. You will not find information on the VQ25 unless you can read Kanji, as it was only sold to the Japanese market afaik. Click on the pic to see it in operation.

Asking in 4 threads won't improve the responses either. You are asking complex questions that require detailed technical explanations, and you are only giving us little pieces of information to go off. I have explained the fault to you in plain English, if you can't work out how to do it, or can't google what I am discussing, take it to a good mechanic that understands VQ's. These are not easy engines to work on unless you completely understand modern engine design, and no-one with that knowledge has the patience to explain every detail. No sarcasm here, I am just being honest. Can you point me to the sarcastic reply so I understand what you mean by that? Would you rather I stayed out of the V section and let all the other guys helping to give their input?

Bake them in the oven. Is it high temp paint? It may take a couple of heat cycles to cure.

Because your temp probe is on the outlet of the cooler.

Ok... 500kw+ isn't enough for the street these days.

I have replaced about 15 cam sensors. They are getting quite common. I used to sell aftermarket ones but had too many issues with frustrated customers chasing faults like yourself. If the code is up, there is something wrong with either the cam sensor or the power to it. If it is faulty it will have put your car into limp mode, which explains the sluggish and rich running.

On the back of the head, on the intake cam side. You will see the green/black plug. Once you find it you will then need to ask us how to remove the plug. Seriously, were there any faults before you did the plenum clean?

I'm pulling a good 34 Neo out next week for a customer, so he can put his built motor in... but I am in melbourne.

Low compression and no boost = retarded.

You can't do much with it, or you will force the pulses into the other side of the log. The divider needs to stay. I would even extend it a little, to just before the gate. I found better results by making the flow path smoother. You can't really do this running the gate off the manifold as you can't die grind it after welding.

lol. Thanks Chris.

No problem, obviously.

You are going to need more than that to stop the map signal oscillation, I would join all the throttles with thin hose, then run it to a small chamber to dampen the pulses. At least the Haltech has the ability to filter this to some extent.

Looks great numleg. You got those AFM delete pipes yet? Post up some pics once you get them, I didn't get time to take any.

The front blue plugs are for the VVT actuator coil. There is only one crank sensor, it is located at the bottom of the bellhousing. The flywheel has a steel trigger disk bolted to it and the magnetic sensor picks it up.

You car is a G35 in the US. Get on Youtube and look it up yourself, It's not difficult ffs. Yes you need to remove the stereo. Now go and smoke a doobie and calm down.

Thanks. A customer did some bartering with me. Mobile friendly, shopping cart, built in postage calculator. Now I have to find the time to insert all the product data.

The black coating always peels off, I usually use Hylomar spray on them to replace the coating, but any thin sealant will do. P1110 NISSAN - Intake Valve Timing Control Bank 1 This fault is usually caused by a faulty sensor for the cam position, but as you have multiple codes I would be checking the power for the sensors, as it is unlikely there would be two faults pop up at once. (Unless you have been playing with plugs etc with the power on) Check the battery compartment isn't flooding with water etc, or that you didn't pull a wire or plug when you had the plenum off. It sounds like you might be a little lost with it, probably best you take it to a suitable mechanic to sort out.

You could carbon wrap it, I have some parts here to sell that have been wrapped. There are no websites that sell parts for these, unless you read Japanese. Even then I don't see much in the way of Autobarn style dress up pieces, thank Rajab.

There is a great parts supplier call Nissan. Otherwise Amayama? Which gasket is it, and how could a steel gasket crack? I have pulled apart many hundreds of gaskets and never ruined one... Has it cracked, or is it just the black coating damaged? Take a pic and I will see what I have here.

Cross checking by the department of infrastructure while good will open a whole new can of worms. What if the car can't be complied when it arrives, will the customer be out of pocket? Whilst I am grateful there are guys like you, Kristian and Mishra defending our odometers finally, but I feel any government involvement will only make matters worse for the industry and customers imo, unless the industry has a large input. The government should have set this up years ago, not just for imports but domestic. They obviously either have no clue or are happy to keep their heads in the sand. Odo tampering has been going on since odometers were introduced.

Nor have I in 5 years. lol. I have only seen issues with the Ryco style filters blocking up in customer cars, sometimes within a few weeks/months. How much discussion was on that topic? What fuel lines were suggested?

I sometimes ran Caltex in winter to help with starting on those chilly Melbourne mornings, but once you get the perfect cold start enrichment there is no reason to. I never had an issue running Caltex, as I tuned for the leaner mixtures of United. I am trying to get information on heated tip injectors at the moment, apparently Delphi have released some on the Brazilian market. If we could get a set fitted aftermarket then all our cold start enrichment issues and subsequent usage will be gone.

Most ecu's can get away with using one input, ditching the fuel temp input. It would be nice to have, but surely you have one spare 0-5v input... It depends how you want the tune done, and how hard you plan to push it I guess Personally I would just run dual maps as there is less chance of a failure. It's not like you will ever run petrol again once you convert.

I'm not great at essays, and I am the first to admit I don't know it all with regards to ethanol fuel, but most of the myths I have managed to debunk during my testing. I would love to do a write-up but I think I would prefer to just help people with information as they need their questions answered. The information is out there for those happy to research it a little, but you need to wade through all the bullshit. I have always used independent tuners, and have no affiliation with particular brands (I have used them all) I can tell you there is little difference between e85 pump fuels and racing blends, and varying ethanol percentages is just a scare tactic pushed by companies trying to save a small piece of their old market. Considering a wideband is under $200, just check your AFR's occasionally if you are worried. You should be doing the same thing on petrol anyway.