scotty nm35

I have plenty mate, can you try out my new site for me? I want to check it works. http://scottyscustoms.com.au/product-category/m35-stagea/

Ah good, there is so much misinformation getting about, I would hate for anyone to get the wrong idea about e85. There are a lot less drawbacks with it as a fuel source when compared to petrol, it just takes some understanding, usually on the part of the workshop doing your work, to set your car up for long term ethanol use. I can see it's not for everyone, but long distance driving is the worst of it with reduced range and lack of pumps. These are easily overcome of course, and will be less of an issue as e85 works it's way into the market. I have been running ethanol for many years and on many tunes. We have played with fuel mixtures extensively, sometimes running 20:1 on cruise, while monitoring exhaust temps, oil temps, torque outputs, drivability etc, I have never had any issues with any of my tunes be it on the road or track. The fuel allows you to tune safer while making more power, and still have the overhead for protection against massive boost spikes or varying ethanol percentages. None of this is possible on petrol, even race fuel won't protect to this extent. When tuned on United e85 I can easily run down to e70 or less, and still get away with running leaner if it gets to e90. Slight changes in ethanol content won't be a problem, mainly as I have a good tuner which is key. Obviously if you push the boundaries e85 will still toast an engine with fuel or timing issues.

And what about the petrol you buy, do you worry about that?

Gear knob, console cover, clock surround, then remove the 3 screws holding the stereo surround.

Of course, that is what Nissan use for full diagnostics on all the ecu's. You are looking at 15k or so for a Nissan Consult3, or $300 for a Chinese knockoff.

Yep, it sounds about right at 1v. The afm can actually read reverse airflow down to 0v.

Oring lube? What sort of dropkick uses petroleum jelly to fit injectors? A tiny bit of silicone spray is enough and won't ruin anything. Sounds like it was an ethanol bashing night. Wish I had been there now to dispel the rumours.

Don't tell too many kents, they will put the price up.

Soooo... Is it Lee?

As long as one stand doesn't take the full weight of the car you should be right. I do it all the time with stands and the hoist. Make sure to use the reinforced areas around the jacking points.

There are two screws behind the facia, but they aren't hard to remove, just google the G35 console removal vids on Youtube.

Go for a consult3, I know they work fine. Consult 3+ is easier to use but out of my price range.

I wouldn't bother with the manual method, mine was exactly the same. Once I got it on the consult 3 it never came back.

^^ This. Unfortunately they have no clue with the RE5. Speak to Kewish automotive if you want info, they built mine twice and learnt a LOT in the process. I blew mine on the dyno at 180kw due to overheating and not enough pressure on the clutches. First mods should be a trans cooler then the shift kit imo. At least then you know the box has all new synthetic fluid.

Low battery voltage can trigger random faults... That code is the pedal sensor, did you play with it before the code popped up? Are you using known good parts when you swap? Perhaps the sensor power has a dodgy connection, or a sensor earth fault perhaps? You could measure these with a multimeter...

Have you contacted Greddy? they do one for the emanage don't they? Unfortunately you will need to get it from overseas, Greddy Australia has gone bust.

Realistically the idle relearn needs to be done using the consult3, the manual method is hit and miss. It also won't work if you have an engine code up in most cases. Try it out, if it works you will hear the engine rev to over 2k, then slowly drop to 650 revs. There are other procedures that need to be done before the relearn though, they need to be done in order preferably.

DP.

So hot starts are the issue? Have you spoken to the tuner? Even the best tunes can have unforeseen issues, they are tuning a complete map in a few hours, there are bound to be problems.

Sounds like it's running rich and fouling the plugs. What injectors are they? Could be anything really. You need to work through all the possibilities starting with the easiest. New plugs, check fuel pressure, change CAS with a known good one, etc. What fuel are you on? Perhaps the cold start enrichment is out in the tune, or the coolant temp sensor is faulty...

It's a messy job. Dropping the valve body isn't that hard, but you need to keep track of where all the bolts came from for when you reinstall everything, and there are a LOT of bolts. Package it well, otherwise you will need another transmission.

Nissan. Amayama. Yahoo Japan.

The V35 uses an oil control solenoid for the cam actuation, but the VQ25 doesn't. Ignore that suggestion. Likely you have a faulty crank or cam sensor. The car should run without the crank sensor plugged in, so try unplugging that first. If it still won't start, then one of the cam sensors on the back of the head is probably faulty.

If the dash lights went off then I would suspect a relay or power module fault, or perhaps a battery/terminal issue Commonly in wet conditions the IPDM module behind the battery gets saturated as the bung in the bottom blocks, filling the battery compartment with water. I usually just pop the bung out so it drains better. You can test it by flooding the hose down there and seeing if it drains.

Yet again your 'research' is wrong, I haven't taken a cent of his money, and only met him for the first time last week. You can't just keep making up crap^^ and posting it without proof, and if you had that you would be speaking to the authorities, not us. You are also making multiple posts about it, in every thread you can find. Sounds like a vendetta to me. Why would I counter anything, It isn't my problem... tl:dr get over it.