scotty nm35

Is it a short one?

Pistons don't seal anything, the rings do.

Who's Skyline? P0000 = No fault.

TL:DR I hate whiny bitches more...

So change your attitude Greg, you may make it around life's corners that way.

Your AFM is faulty, as I have told you already in the other thread. Measuring the ground resistance isn't going to help, these are complicated microprocessor controlled AFM's and they fail regularly, especially with oiled pod filters or if water gets on them. Nissan sell replacement AFM's for $330. I sell AFM's for $70. http://scottyscustoms.com.au/product/nissan-m35-stagea-aftermarket-afm/ Your choice. The P1320 fault is a primary ignition fault, possibly caused by mucking around with the ecu plug or because you have fouled the plugs.

Pistons aren't round, how were you measuring them?

Hardly any have the pocket though. Don't just look for V35's, look for Stagea base models also, they have the same dash.

The early twin puck design leads to one not sealing when it heats up apparently. It will still work fine though. At least a turbo swap is easy, otherwise I would say don't bother with a second hand one.

Still illegal as it is registered as a turbo vehicle. You would get pulled over constantly regardless.

Cmon, it's a 32. Solid mount the engine and weld the pipes together.

Those are shit. Standard Norma clamps are the best, and don't overtighten them.

How much money to chefs pay for head? I changed career, leaving my comfortable govt job (where I was set for life) to go out on my own. My hard work and dedication is at least appreciated now, and if I put in extra effort the rewards are in MY pocket. No more rotating shift work is the best part.

I think the Kando one maxed out at less than that from his testing, but that was with the cast compressor. That is GTX3071 territory on e85 with much better response.

You will need to find a wreckers with one that isn't split, then replace the boots. I don't think you can buy the parts to repair it economically, if at all.

There is a Stagea owner making the lid into a triple gauge holder, other than that you will need to find something at the wreckers. I only just sold my spare pocket with lid last week, sorry Adam.

What's a file full of racists? It's so stealth with those plates...

The last one doesn't have a Billet wheel, wrong pic perhaps? Hypergear made a few billet T67's, one flowed 400kw on his 33. If you have a 2.5 then neither are going to be responsive.

Manual valve bodies are absolute crap compared to an aftermarket programmable transmission controller.

I can sort you out with new injectors... Personally I wouldn't buy S/H ones unless you clean and test them first, and replace the Orings. That will cost you half what a new set will. PM me if you want some prices Bevan.

How did you go finding one? I can make you a spacer in the lathe if you have one to copy... Bolts will be no problem.

The restriction will be the pod, not the intake. I fitted twin 3 inch stainless pods to a mates Supra for more surface area and flow, it ran nearly 600kw. No, sorry. Melbourne SE.

The later 10.5's had a single wastegate puck which is better at sealing than the earlier twin puck housing. Other than that they are all very similar I think.

My car makes 800nm on the Edge dyno, the Soarer was making 1200nm at 10psi. Torque is what kills rods I imagine, and this had it in bulk. It would have been stressed from the previous runs, but the sintered rods just fracture and let go, no bending etc like you would see on a forged rod before it failed. Yes, the Evo is running, just a few small issues to sort out and I can fit the 1400's and tune it.

They can slide in and out easily, but there shouldn't be any slack in the CV when twisting the shaft forward and back. Just take it to a driveshaft specialist, they will be able to rip it out and diagnose the problem. If you need a new shaft I have one here, if the boot has been split for a while it will be flogged from water and crap getting in. Where are you located Brent?