scotty nm35

Either crank or one of the cam sensors is faulty. Have you tried cleaning them? Sometimes metal shavings from the starter motor build up on the magnetic crank sensor as it is at the bottom of the bell housing, this can cause issues with starting.

My stock evo7 had a 10.5 with twin wastegate pucks, not the single. Many people have told me it should be the .9, perhaps it was swapped at some stage. Personally I wouldn't bother, the gains wouldn't be worth the effort unless you were putting the Ti one in for response, or perhaps a highflow/aftermarket new one.

Edge. I hope Barry isn't too pissed about the mess on the floor. Luckily it was only at 3k, it would have made one hell of a mess at 7. No wonder they park that old Ford beside the dyno. lol.

PM'd.

I could make it, but unless you are pushing 11ty kw an 80mm intake will do the job. I have run mine up to 400+kw easily, and the engine bay remains stealth. I am guessing you have a huge top mount though? A funnel like that isn't going to improve flow much from my experience, just get you defected on the road. If it's a track car, go for your life.

Ah, ok. With a manual valve body there is no way the line pressure can be adjusted for temp changes, so when it's cold on the road there will be changes to the shift pressures and times that can't be accounted for due to the lack of a TCU. I hope you at least have a thermostat in the trans cooler lines... As Greg mentioned above, a PCS controller is expensive but it changes the way the auto drives substantially, and allows infinite adjustment via a laptop. I was surprised how well his car drove, better than a manual or DSG I thought, and I usually hate auto's.

The lines to the cooler are after the torque converter, they won't tell you the line pressure off the pump outlet. Have you installed the trans cooler? Usually the trans needs to get to a certain temp before the TCU will shift properly. Temp is much more important than pressure imo. You are probably looking at 250psi or more pressure at the pump.

The cast manifolds turn to jelly at 1000+C, yes the bars are there to support the weight and keep the manifolds in one piece, seems to do the trick...

If you have no idea about fault codes, or google searching fault codes, or repairing faults, there are places you can take your car where they know how to fix it, where there are men willing to get their hands dirty to save you doing the hard work... With no location listed I can't help you find one of these specialists spector. Sorry.

Did you run the relay and fuse back to the battery mate?

I thought the 350 would work with any OBD2 scanner, as it was made after mid 04 when the OBD2 laws came out in Japan. You would still need the Consult 3 for detailed diagnostics on all the ecu's in the car, the generic ones would only pick up the engine I think. Where are you located Harry? Someone local might have something you can try out before you buy...

^^ This. MV do swap over valve bodys, but they had run out recently so I hear, as none of the customers had returned them. Worth a call anyway.

Blew a late 1UZ on the dyno last night, the limit of its compressed powder rods was 300kw on ethanol. It made massive torque though before it fractured. Eventually something will fail, the gamble is when and at what torque.

I agree, I have had this head f*ck a few times. It can be a pita to find, depending what pin it is. I swore the issue was dry joints in the ecu last time, but it was just the pin in the ecu plug had opened slightly.

I could probably weld a T3 flange onto the entry for you, but that is soooo wrong. Vband FTW.

What you offering? No reacharounds accepted today... Just hard currency.

No. It cost me shite loads. Have you looked to see if Kando do a 1.06 for the GT30? What about those Ebay knockoff investment cast stainless Tials like I run, although I think they only do .82's.

It depends on a lot of factors, including the start temp, but the thermostat does the bulk of the work. I would have pulled it out and checked it in boiling water, it would have taken less time than typing the post. Stock temp? Anything around 80 - 90 degrees C would be fine.

Shift kit first? I would go with the trans cooler, then shift kit.

Evo tune today. Hopefully Barry has the RWC and permit, otherwise i'm stealing his Trade plate, havent driven it once in the two years I have owned it. Aaron, you jelly?

Got a picture? Any decent fabricator should be able to weld something up for you...

No. Not unless there is a leak.

No, a good highflow 5 inch cat will flow massive numbers, 400+. There is no need to punch the cat and possibly get raped by the epa for 20 large over a few KW. I certainly wouldn't go talking about it on the forums either. If on the other hand you have converted to straight LPG you don't need one... Same should theoretically go for e85, but there is no legal precedent set yet.

Is that still a reliable indication of power, even if my slug auto won't get off the line due to the stock stally stator?

I agree. It was good enough for Gibson.