scotty nm35

All modern engines suck oil fumes in from the crankcase and burn them to lower emissions. The black soot is because your engine has an 'EGR' valve (Exhaust gas recirculation) to improve emissions and get greater fuel economy when cruising and on light load. It needs to be cleaned out every 50,000k's or so.

It was a 3000 stally, which becomes a 4500 stally under boost. (as it is torque dependant really) I swapped back to a GTX3071 two months ago, still running 32psi, but with more torque now than the GTX3076 ever gave me. It is amazing what a few extra degrees of timing can do. I am just glad for the extra response, running the stock stator and triple lock up clutches, this stall converter needs all the help it can to get the whale off the line.

I agree, I have my old Dominator stally on the shelf and have been tempted to throw it back in. I remember how much punch I lost putting it in though. There are tradeoffs. Stallys are very hard to get right, as they need to be matched to the turbo. Hopefully 3000 will do you perfectly.

I have turbo'd many high comp 10+ engines, they respond well on e85, but you need to drop the boost savagely on 98. Critical is keeping the cylinder pressures under control.

Too much damn money. lol.

I used to mess around with clutch bleeds by hand, but now I have a vac bleeder I will never do it again. Why had no-one told me about them before.

Quite cheap. Someone grab it or I will.

Is that your way of saying you would like me to do the job? Pissermoff and put in some Recaros, the stock seats are like a park bench... With a heater.

No problem guys.

PM'd.

They are re-usable metal gaskets.

Ahh, probably the ABS motor... Do you need one? I haven't seen any ABS faults before...

The ignition coils are in the middle of the black plastic valve cover. The injectors are down in the V under the lower plenum. You can quite easily see they have hard fuel lines bolted to them. Whatever you do, don't remove them. They are not your fault, the AFM is faulty.

If you do a simple search on the code you will find it relates to the AFM. You can either buy a new AFM from Nissan for $330au or I sell aftermarket ones on my site for much less. http://scottyscustoms.com.au/product/nissan-m35-stagea-aftermarket-afm/ The swirl butterflies are usually caked with crap, you need to clean the entire plenum and runners, right down to the valves.

There are plenty of hydrocarbons left over from the combustion process, re-introducing these back into the cylinder can improve economy, more so if the recirculated gasses are cooled beforehand. You are quite correct with the PCV operation, but catching the moisture will only mean you are emptying another can, for no real gain.

They are fuel injectors, but nothing like the G35. Your ones spray directly into the cylinder. Why?

They run direct injectors, they are down in the V under the lower plenum. What do you want to do with them?

I was going to say with your tongue, but I don't want someone to actually try it on my suggestion. If it's revving to 7.5k there is a large air leak somewhere after the throttle, and the car is running way too rich. Sounds like it may have been modified at some point. I would be replacing the AFM with a known good one and perhaps checking the injectors aren't highflowed.

'On that setup' the results were better closing the plug gap, but only in the top end. Was it because the coils didn't have enough punch? Seems unlikely at such low power figures. I would want to see an AFR graph as it's obviously untuned and is probably running 9:1 afr's. It seems interesting the power dropped off around 5k at .6, maximum torque... Stock computer detecting knock perhaps? Like I said, every setup is different, but I wouldn't go suggesting all engines should run .5, unless you are melting plugs every 1000k's and want some life out of them.

So if mine runs perfectly on 1.1mm at 40 psi running rich as fark should I drop the gap to 0.5mm just because RB owners say it should be? XR6t owners say the same thing funny enough and they have their fair share of spark issues also. Plug gap comes down to the coil output voltage more than anything.

Even if it's from a highly modified ignition system running large volumes of Methanol? Not really suited for comparison to stock 25's I would have thought. The results I have seen prove the opposite about plug gap, I guess every setup is different, and people generally stick with what works for them.

300 odd kw out of the 34 with an exhaust I seem to remember.

I have a few here, they are 11mm anodised rail kits to suit rb25's. Other than the lower spacer for the plenum being shite, they seem good quality... I wouldn't be trusting any of the Orings supplied. You aren't saving that much in the scheme of things. This for the 1J? Anything S/H on egay?

They just slide backwards mate.

Compressed air injection into the turbine wheel. Water injection into the exhaust manifold or direct injected into the cylinder on the exhaust stroke. 3 phase brushless motor inside the turbo core. I am sure there are more I have thought of over the years.