scotty nm35

Mmm, they stripped the camber bolt on my Evo then tried to tell me I need to bring new bolts every time I bring it in for an alignment. I had just tightened it myself so I knew the thread was fine. The mechanic threw his torque wrench at the wall when it stripped, I thought no wonder the thing is over torquing. lol. Is it worth driving to Pedders South Melb? I swore I would never go back to a Pedders dealer but I have heard so much good press about that particular store.

I doubt anything solid will help, you need rubber/flexiable lines or an anti hammer device/fuel dampener between the pump and reg, but only if your fuel pressure is bouncing. Seems to happen more the larger the injectors. Has anyone seen an aftermarket large scale dampener available that is suitable for fuel?

Thanks to the thick adapter Tao welds on it pushes the dump back too far which melts the drain. If it gets bad enough it will flood inside the car. The dump will be fine as long as it isn't wrapped.

Are you sure it's draining not just evaporating in the heat Johnny? I run two one way valves after the twin VQ rails to separate my twin pump setup. Not running a dampener at all but my fuel pressure gauge doesn't bounce around much.

The massive injectors are what cause the pulsation in most cases, and it can be almost completely removed by using rubber lines not braided or solid. I doubt any OEM dampeners will work on such large fuel setups, you would probably need to scale it up to the size of a house anti water hammer device imo.

The Martini ATF is clear now, makes it damn hard to read the dipstick. If it's slipping it's probably because someone put the incorrect fluid in there, or it was very low. Nissan Matic J or compatible synthetic like Nulon or Penrite is required. Lucky for you the 34 auto boxes are cheap. You only get a couple of good slips out of auto clutches, then the heat produced does the rest. You can drop the pan and check how much red dust is in there, and how caked the magnets are in metal particles, that should tell you if the box is screwed.

But... It's Nismo...

The stock BOV with a grubscrew was ok, bit of hesitation as you come off boost to a cruise. Once I changed to the Turbosmart Kompact plumback I never had an issue. Personally I only use a BOV blanking for diagnosing faults, I would never block it off for any high boost runs, there is a good chance you will twist the turbine shaft or damage the compressor wheel.

A few EMU fitted cars have thrown rods recently... I knew about the timing issues when I installed mine and installed the Fcon as soon as I could. No need for me to 'poo poo' the EMU, every tuner I speak to does that without me saying a word, hence why no-one will tune it these days. Good on you for trying to develop it further, but the only reason I was installing them is, there was no other option. A little support with our M35 Link development wouldn't go astray, it isn't about selling a heap of units, it's about getting a decent tuning option for those few of us pushing the limits. I know we will struggle to sell enough to recoup even a small part of the costs involved, and there are plenty of headaches with it still to address.

It will stop the clutches slurring into gear, and hopefully that will prolong the life of the clutches.

It's a 4 grand rebuild if the box fails, and excess heat will cook it quickly.

Did Craig install it? Should shift quickly most of the time, but they still struggle under load sometimes.

It will be firmer, but it won't increase the response. Only your foot can do that, it's how you stab the pedal that makes all the difference I have found. Should be interesting taking standalone control of some of the gearbox functions using the Link ecu, I suspect it may not require a shift kit once we set up the map properly. It's a fair bit of stuffing around but it will be well worth it, my gearbox is slipping and slurring into gear at the drags, hoping this should sort it out.

Facts are I have blown a few boxes, even once built. If you plan to run 35psi you will quickly be in the same boat (I assume again), especially on the EMU. Been there done that, all I can say is good luck with it, not trying to rain on your parade. Timing drift is likely why you are now pushing coolant too, but hey, what do I know...

You got a price in mind?

Silicone is a lubricant, it won't help the silicone will pop off easier. Sounds like you are running much more boost than you think... Make sure you cable-tie all hoses, most are not barbed.

Yes it will. The shudder should be able to be sorted with a tune.

I would just run an e85 Walbro, should flow 600 odd kw on 98 and would be much easier to fit intank. If you have a surge tank etc, try and stick to a single large pump, as if one 044 fails you won't know until it leans out at WOT.

One other thing to add, does more energy help, or are you just looking for more voltage for a better spark? There is a bloke rewinding XR6 coils locally, shoving twice as many windings in to bump the voltage to twice what the factory coils run, this fixes all their spark and gap related issues. Perhaps someone should contact him about the Skyline ones? Or just do what the Evo guys do and run coils that are known to have zero issues like Yaris coils.

Fair enough. Rescaling it may keep the EMU happy but the gearbox won't like it at all I suspect, even if you can work out the wiring. I guess if I paid 2k for my Stag I wouldn't care much either. Just sounds like you want to watch the thing die a quick death to me... Don't say I didn't warn you.

Boost T all the way down? No wonder your car is surging, what boost is it running? Have you double checked the boost gauge is reading correctly?

These cars have 8 computers communicating down a CAN line, if you take one out the rest work with limited functionality. If you are happy to drive a car with no kickdown, or for example the auto in limp mode with set line pressure clunking into gears, ditching the ecu can work. I prefer the stock ecu to remain and run happily while the Link actually controls the engine, to keep all the other systems working as they should, and I figure if Mercury had done that with the Elite install the car wouldn't have been off the road for a year and a half before they gave up totally. A manual gearbox will help make life easier, but there are still plenty of functions to sort out if you want the car to drive anything like factory. Anyone willing to put the R+D into getting a new ecu to run smoothly I will take my hat off to, it's a crapload of work. Can I ring them at 10pm and have someone answer a specific question about a VQ map? We needed factory support for this, and what we are doing no tuner would ever like to waste their time with. Not to mention I can't even get a copy of the Emtron software. When it's a reliable product and available for purchase I should be able to wire it or any aftermarket ecu in, and get it to run, now I know what's involved. Yes, the new Link should run the cams with a few changes to the frequency input, and our throttle is the same as the VQ35 so that is no problem. I will most likely look at those down the track once it's working well with the stock ecu.

I suspect the shudder is pressure pulses hitting the throttle plate, then bouncing back to the turbo. If you are worried drop the stock BOV back in?

Just need a stiff spring, the dual port will still help, but as you say Matt, the manifold pressure climbs much harder and faster than the boost. Relying on the boost to hold it back alone won't work, the spring needs to be as close to your desired boost as possible. The other issue is the MAC valve, to work properly you need a 5 port which bleeds the pressure off each end of the actuator as it switches.

I have seen 430+ a few times on the factory manifold with the gate off the housing. Welding it off the manifold could work well if you can get in and die grind it afterwards. I doubt you will see much in the way of gains between them. No need for stabilizer with pump e85, I have been on Caltex/United e85 for 6 odd years without running a stabilizer and never cleaned my filters or injectors. Watch your timing, I much prefer more boost and less timing as you previously mentioned Johnny.