scotty nm35

The clutch was fine, just the thrust bearing is mounted on a plastic bush, which melted. Dropping the cats was a 4 hour job, as you need to drop the subframe.

Nah, it's a C34, not a VQ. Although the VQ and Neo34 engine run the same injector. Give me a PM when you have some prices Garry, I am confident I could beat them.

Mmm, the 06 RS4 I drove wasn't in the same league as my Stagea.

You obviously don't want to give out any of your hard earned info, which is fair enough. I can only use my imagination to guess what you did. Pics or it didn't happen.

So the car is defectable, not that it matters, these Stagea's are worth 10k at most in good condition. So you did the manual swap 8 years ago and never told anyone? Thanks for showing us. Why are you here asking us questions then?

Pressure test the intake and get back to us.

Screamer. 1 inch is not enough. What boost were you seeing as a maximum?

Yes, but that is in the engine bay, not inside the car. Still, under the heat of the track and hot fuel, the efi hose will soften and the clamp isn't spring loaded to take up the slack. I guess you don't worry about things like that until it happens to you.

Any of the GTR boxes will need the floor cut and shut, as the Stagea gearbox mounts right where the GTR transfer case sits. You either need to cut the floor or extend the transfer case backwards like I was planning. You never had a problem because you weren't pushing 800nm of torque. If your only issue is the shifts, why didn't you just fit a PCS electronic transmission controller. Perfect shifts every time and fully programmable.

Try bumping the boost a bit, the fuel will leak past that Norma clamp eventually given enough pressure. I would be running some new 400 series push on hose at a minimum. I guess I worry about ethanol compatibility and leaks/smells inside the car more than most...

The blitz kit is fine, it will easily support 400kw. I agree there is always a better result with smoother bends, but the factory stuff in the engine bay won't hold you back that much. Cutting the battery tray is just stupid these days, as I said there are other options if going cross flow.

It's a Ford, gearbox oil is fine in a taxi motor...

What is a Jap return flow worth these days, $400? Why take the risk to save a few bucks?

Most large external pumps will require 10an at least to feed them, to stop them cavitating.

When did you change the plugs last? What mods have you done, as Brick mentioned? Perhaps you have a boost leak? I would try pressure testing the intake.

Anyone repairing them certainly isn't going to post up 'how-to's' online. There was a specialist in NZ repairing them I seem to remember, but it was a long time ago. Perhaps do some more searching on Google?

Where are you located Angelo? I have a second hand system here that may fit, or I can make one.

You can shove the 6 spd into it, but you would need all the ecu's, fuse boxes, relays, looms etc swapped to do it properly.

Having it diagnosed properly on a consult 3 unit would be a start, then see if you can find a reputable transmission specialist willing to pull it down and fix the issue. Getting the workshop manual for the CVT would make it all much easier.

Great info there, and it explains a lot. Thanks.

My tank is 85L, you don't want that sort of extra weight in a track car. 3 bar is a lot, I run around 35psi base. Most injectors have issues opening consistently at high pressure too.

Quote: The only reason to "upgrade" the factory FPR is really in three instances: 1. When your injectors are starting to max out, but you don't want to upgrade them, so you bump up the rail pressure with the aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator to push them a little but furthur. Obviously this isn't ideal and most people don't recommend it. Just buy the correct injectors to start with. 2. When you are running huge amounts of boost and the factory fuel pressure regulator can not keep up the 1:1 fuel pressure ratio. Therefore you will need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator that can handle this high amount of boost pressure and keep up the 1:1 ratio. 3. The factory fuel pressure regulator has failed so you may choose to buy an aftermarket one however still run it at factory fuel pressure. So as you can see, not many people fall into the second category because a lot of people don't run 2+bar of boost through their car. A few do fall into the first category because they may be on a budget and don't want to upgrade the stock injectors so they choose to bump the rail pressure up instead and obviously a few will fall into the third category. However there is a fourth category that you will find 90% of people with aftermarket fuel pressure regulators fall into: 4. They have no idea what an adjustable fuel pressure regulator does, but they got told to buy one by a mate or read about one somewhere. For your situation assuming that you are not running E85, your 700cc injectors should be fine for between 400-500HP therefore you do not need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. Or 5: You want to lower the fuel pressure, as 40 psi base plus 40 psi boost is getting way too high. Most pumps have issues supplying fuel at 80psi+ pressure, lowering the base pressure will allow much greater fuel flow from the pump, as long as you didn't cheap out on undersized injectors.

I had a lot of issues running the Denso's, to the extent they completely melted in 10,000k's (although I am pushing things hard.) The stainless threads also seize up in the thread easily without some antisieze on them. They are rated to 160,000 but obviously aren't that good for turbo applications. I am sure anything will run fine as the stock coils throw a fair spark, but I stick to the NGK's these days, LFR7AIX, due to them lasting so much longer. For $15 a plug it just isn't worth changing them any more often than you have to. The Evo crowd isn't the smartest... I know this well, as I have a 7.

And is long term e85 tolerant. It's a no-brainer for most applications, or until a surge tank is required, eg track work.

You have 1600cc Sards? Good luck getting those to idle consistently.