scotty nm35

I sense a lot of pud pullin going on with regards to HTA's too, they are not magical, there is no fairy dust inside. Failure of ceramic bearings causes many butt hurtz though. Come at me when you see one crack 200,000ks Lithium, then we can discuss how good they may or may not be. My opinion is already forged by my experiences.

At 3 times the price the HTA should spool 3 times earlier.

Are the coils in the VQ30 different to the VQ25? I have had no spark issues at up to 40psi on mine... They jump a 4mm gap just fine as I found out when I melted a set of iridiums.

I have seen many issues with wiring inside the trans after hack transgo installs, it could be a good idea to get the pan dropped to look for wires catching in the gear lever linkage if they didn't clip the loom back in properly. Other than that, make sure the plugs are clean, dry and pushed home on the transmission ecu.

I have changed many front wheel bearings on these, new and old. They seem to wear out quickly, especially if they were replaced by incompetent mechanics. Bearings need to be pressed in correctly or they will make the same noise as the old bearings and quickly fail. You can't always feel slop in the bearing as there are two races, unless one race has failed completely. Can't you just borrow a set of wheels of someone to try?

Tuners are usually suspect of old engines and unknown builds. They don't always trust a setup to lean on them hard, especially the first time they tune them. They don't want to blow your engine, it makes them look bad. Sometimes all it takes is fitting an exhaust temp gauge, or telling them you have a spare engine to go in, that way they aren't so scared to turn up the wick. E85 should take most of their worries away.

Considering they are gold plated connections, not a good chance.

Of course, good oil is critical as there are multiple restrictors in the oil feed line. A small particle can block the feed easily. The S1 uses a 33 turbo, known to let go fairly easily when the boost is upped. I ran my m35 ceramic turbo at 19-20 psi for 6 odd months on e85 without the sky falling, but perhaps they had redesigned the shaft/ceramic? I would say it is more dependant on how many K's were wound off it in Japan before it was shipped over.

To lose 1000 rpm of response you would need a pretty restrictive exhaust, think 1 inch...

The evo is a small engine to push that much air, but I have seen billet T67's run up to 400kw, certainly not the dog you believe it is, but I agree, there are better options these days if you are willing to spend more cash...

There are good reasons for jumping on that bandwagon, petrol is crap. Good luck...

If you retune the car... which is pointless, as you haven't increased the power at all. I would personally wait till you have done some more mods, eg the turbo, otherwise you are wasting your tuner's time, and your cash.

You should get close with GTX28's shoved into -5 housings, twin Walbro 460L, possibly 1400cc ethanol/methanol injectors (or just put 2000's in there) The rest can be done on a surprisingly stock engine bay, but be warned, the 26 block is very weak up around that power. I would be going for an unmolested 3L block and not boring it out much.

Yes, the GTX76 is a larger compressor and as such needs the larger rear to shine. As no-one is willing to try that in most cases, or worse strangles it with a .63, we are not going to see any decent results any time soon, no matter the dyno. It surpasses the capabilities of a GT35 in most cases from my experience. Seeing my old GTX76 made 380kw on an auto 34 on a stock manifold with a cheap Kando housing, I am very confident there is at least 450+wkw in it, on Chequered's dyno at least, assuming more appropriate supporting mods are added and it was a manual car. That is why I suggested comparing to a GTX3071, as it is much closer to matching the spool and power output of the HTA76, at least in externally gated form on e85. Just my opinion, any of them will fry tyres nicely though. Hopefully someone does an unbiased bolt on comparison one day, on an unrestricted setup, but I can only guesstimate the HTA will make somewhere in between the Garrett offerings.

For response you are better off comparing it to a GTX3071 though.

Realistically no-one could really tell you, as at that power level dyno results can be easily skewed, and everyone's setup is different. Believe me, if you run either turbo at high shaft speed, traction will be your biggest issue, not the brand on the compressor housing.

It doesn't matter how much preload you put on the puck, if the back of the turbo is only a little warped, it will never make a seal. Cam timing would need to be out a fair bit... Yes it will affect the tune.

The Gates belts are Kevlar, which won't stretch much, if at all. As the block expands with heat it needs to either stretch a little or be run a little slack when cold. I would prefer to just run the Nissan belt.

cut the sealant off the lid and solder the pins for the plug. There is a how-to on here somewhere.

Sounds like the afm needs resoldering. Was it a second hand item? It's pretty common unfortunately.

You want to take Tony on a date?

If all is mechanically ok, there is a chance the high exhaust temps from the failed valves have warped the rear housing on the Hypergear, and now the wastegate puck won't seal fully. I have seen this before, it's not hard to check if the back of the turbo is flat still.

Knowing Peter he would rip the VR38 out and put the RB26 in there, just cos its bettera.

You would barely notice it, I don't, it just slips a little at full noise with 350kw as the line pressure sits on 80% or so.

No engine light since resetting mine, I have done over 1000ks now. Why haven't you gone to a MAP sensor tune yet?