scotty nm35

No idea on brand, but it is old. I wouldn't be using it as the diaphragm would likely be stuffed. Replace it with a compact Turbosmart gate and save yourself a load of pain.

There is probably 200 rpm difference between the .82 and 1.06 from my experience. The larger housing will feel much punchier when it comes on as it will improve top end torque. Why 98? A GTX3071 would do that power if you went ethanol, with much better response.

Those filters will also block quickly if you don't sort out a good inline filter for your fuel system. What is the issue with the stock rail, and why the hell have you changed the plenum?

I got 4 years out of mine on ethanol, but it wasn't the sensor that went, it was the LC1 unit that failed. It is carbon that buggers the sensors, especially if the heater can't keep up with cleaning it off. I know tuners that replace the sensor every week or two as they cop a hiding from running rich on petrol.

Perhaps they were shitbox engines when they were machined, which is the most important part after all. Surely you had your car tuned before that 3000k though Brad? My stock 200,000k engine has little to no blowby, and I have been thrashing buggery out of it for years... What does that mean? OP, The standard gauges are crap and known to fail. If you are trusting in them you are mad. Get some decent aftermarket gauges in there, and if you don't like a dash full of dials like me there are plenty of other options. I went with the Informeter Touch.

As a daily my Stagea has never had any issues in 5 years, not something I would recommend for people running their cars once a month though as the fuel may sit in the tank for months. I have seen most of the ethanol related faults on customers cars, nothing that can't be worked around now that ethanol rated components are available. If you run non rated pumps and injectors you are likely running on borrowed time as you would expect. I wouldn't trust the Ryco style filters, thats for sure, stick to 40 or less micron stainless filters if you want long term reliability. This is exactly why I push the stainless body injectors, as most use iron in their construction and it will rust if not used consistently, or if they are removed and stored incorrectly. My Bosch 1000's are running fine still, but I don't expect them to continue running forever like OEM. The sludgy oil in the engine is due to not heating the oil enough, you need to get it over 80 degrees for a while to evaporate the ethanol out of the oil. My catch can is usually half full of water and ethanol, especially in winter. The oil absorbs water as condensation, and ethanol from running down the rings on cold starts, due to the massive quantities required to ignite at low temperature.

^^ This.

Can you pressure test the intake to see if there are any leaks? If there is no other reason for the change in AFR's I can send you another AFM to try... Unless someone up there can lend you one for a drive? Perhaps the Chinese one is slightly out? I would have thought it would be fine on cruise though... Have you checked the O2 sensor is oscillating?

Except I had an 80mm Fujitsubo Legalis R pass noise emissions while flowing 300+kw. There are good exhausts and there are cannons.

I run two pumps, one for each rail on the V6. Each has it's own filter and one way valve before the reg. I knew it wasn't me, but you are right, others could have been misled. Thanks.

Water and air = rust.

No, it wouldn't have. Just put it up for interests sake. Interesting the 255 could outflow it, there is something else wrong I suspect, but replacing the pump will rule it out I guess. The 255's only draw 7amps or so, that's why I still run two of them, as it means less current for more flow.

Bigger wiring the better, and I always solder the connectors. The main problem is the thin wires at the plug on the tank, and the undersized plug pins. They need to be clean or they can melt causing similar symptoms. Here is the Wally, not much to see, but you can easily see the rust from excess moisture. This pump was seized, drawing 30 amps, so keep your fuse at 25A.

Could it have been the reg at fault perhaps? What if the spring had no more to give? Was the pressure dropping off at the top end, or was it a steady 50psi?

Oh, didn't read that. These are very basic pumps, unless they have had water through them they are very robust and hard to block. Can you post a pic of it if you have one? I just cut an e85 walbro apart today, very interesting inside due to being a turbine only pump. No wonder they are so quiet... I should post some pics in here.

As have I Greg, and I plan to again upgrade to the 1400's soon.

The problem is there is a restriction inside the ryco style filters, not that is was dirty. (unless you tried some kind of highflow stainless mesh filter) I have seen that exact fault many times and most suspect the pump or injectors are the problem. If you had simply bypassed the Ryco it would have proved it in 1 dyno run. As far as I know there are no knockoff Walbro 416 pumps, but some are the original petrol variant. These are cheaper but will fail quickly on e85. If this is what you bought, and it doesn't have the sealed power connector, it could explain what happened.

Neither are that hard to get to, but the plugs are a pita. I would only be changing the faulty one personally. Nissan want drug money for them. Have you tried Amayama yet?

Did you rotate the wheel from side to side to make sure it wasn't going to rub on anything? I used a cable tie around that eyelet on the alloy upright above the hub you can see in the first pic, just to help it stay in place.

You need to drive it harder, and get some boost pressure under the ring to force it into the cross hatch hard. That way it will file the rings down and bed them in well, making a good ring seal. Usually done on the dyno.

More likely your fuel filter is restricting flow, unless there is something wrong with your pump install... Does it have full 14v and e85 compatible submersible hose in the tank? Have you checked the terminals on the pump lid are clean and corrosion free, and not melting?

I will grab the Turbosmart controller, thanks. Sending PM now.

http://www.holley.com/230626ERL.asp Anything similar is good, I run twin Proflow 30 micron filters on mine and haven't had an issue, I have never cleaned them either. I only suggest the Earls as it sort of fits in the stock filter bracket.

They all leak, and you still need to plumb them back into a muffler, or the police will hear you coming from 50ks away.

Nissan use front and rear plumbing on the later engines. Personally I don't think it matters if a little air gets into the rail, it would run along the top anyway, not the bottom where the injectors feed from. VQ's have the reg on the end of the rail for the turbo model. I simply cut them off and welded stainless 6an fittings to the end of the stock rails, they haven't rusted away yet... Just be glad you don't have the V35/350z non return fuel system.