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Series 2 WC34. What is the image host of choice around here? The Forum-Based upload system isn't working for me.

Thanks guys. Car is now all wired up. A tight squeeze with that arch as my splash-guard wouldn't fully remove meaning I had to reach in and feed the cable through. Now the entire sound system is complete. For anyone who wants to know, the head-unit is a Pioneer AVIC-F310BT and it fits straight in. No modifications needed, bolts perfectly to the stock framing. Has inbuilt GPS, iPhone control/charging and hands-free. I snagged it from JB Hifi for $468.

I know there's a dedicated thread for this and I apologise, but I only have a short window today to install an amp and needed a faster response. Just looking for the best place to run a 4 Gauge power cable from the battery through the firewall. Cheers.

Getting all 4 solenoids replaced as an effort to make sure this is the last thing I'll ever need to fix. Solenoid A and B were screwed in the end. Now deciding whether or not to take this oppurtunity to sell it while it's running fine, or hope this is the last thing to go wrong after a string of problems.

Sorry to spam with another thread but I need a quick answer. I've done a search on the forums and found this post in the parts thread: Can anyone verify that these are correct? About to order one. Cheers.

Might have to check out something like that in the future. Cheers. Let us know how it goes.

Can I ask what kind of work you've done to your box? I'll be calling Adelaide today to track one down. Yesterday was the 6 month anniversary of owning the car and I couldn't drive it.

Hey guys. Just trying to source a shift solenoid (b) for my S2 Stag. I'm on the Gold Coast but don't mind shopping online. Any recommendations? After I get this fixed up it will be the first time this car will be running perfectly, and I've had it 6 months.

Does he do transmissions as well? I think if we convince more Gold Coast stag owners to see him he'll have to become a specialist!

Hey guys, Any recommendations for good mechanics near the Gold Coast with experience in Stagea's and/or Skylines? In particular I need to diagnose a transmission issue, a vibration issue and a suspension issue, but I would like to find someone who can spend a decent amount of time with the car and give it an in depth inspection and have a proper idea of any problems there might be. I've done all that I can do myself in terms of testing and diagnosing. Cheers.

Well taking it down to these other people did nothing as they couldn't even get into the ECU to see what the code was and they didn't want to take it apart for a look. They were also rude as hell. Stay away from Burleigh Automatics. The problem happened again today, and like last time, happened after about 15min driving on the highway. One mechanic said the filters in the transmission may be clogging up and causing the issue. Could it be that simple?

Taking it down to get it checked today. I'll get him to check the computer and see if that A/T code is stored. I'm not sure what is meant exactly by flaring, but sometimes under heavy load it will ride the clutch between first and second for a good couple of seconds. Haven't had that issue again since friday fortunately. Will report how it goes.

Interesting. I think one of the local Stagea's near me had that done (Gold Coast) so I'll stalk him one day and ask him. So it's basically a small issue (solenoid, sensor) and the gearbox isn't functioning properly as a way of protecting itself?

Just drove it then and it was perfectly fine. Car had a full service and inspection in June by a mob familiar with imports and it was all fine (except for the coil pack). I'll go down to a local automatic place tomorrow and see what they say. Roughly how much are those shift kits?

Hey guys. After finally getting my S2 Stagea RS4 running properly after 3 months of ownership by replacing the coil packs, I've got another problem. Driving home on the highway today the A/T light came on and the gearbox would no longer shift into overdrive, so at 100km/h I was doing almost 4000rpm. By using the tip-tronic I could see that it was indeed in 4th, not 3rd. Jumping off the highway to the streets presented another symptom. The car would not pull at all, and it feels exactly like driving a manual and holding the clutch in half-way. This still occurred in tip-tronic mode in all gears. I did the self-diagnosis thing and the A/T light flashed through 13 times and didn't pause on any of the flashes. Am I screwed? Background information just in case: Bought the car in April with a dead coil pack. Replaced that coil with factory item in June which started to die 3 days later. Replaced all coils with splitfire items two Sundays ago. Installed a pod filter last Sunday (still don't know why). Everything else on the car is completely standard.

Well I just did some research like I should have done before the above post and it seems the problem is mostly related to the coils, spark plugs or the wiring. I'll give them all a thorough check. Any other things I should check for?

The ECU code was '21: Ignition fault'. Any ideas what's causing this? Would another failing coil pack be to blame?

Thanks for the reply mate. Hopefully I don't have that problem, but my problems seem very similar (although not as bad) aside from the stalling. I'll take the car back down to the shop this week and grab the exact code for you.

Hey guys. I've had my '98 Series 2 for nearly 2 months now and I'm still trying to sort out a problem. I originally purchased the car with the 2nd cylinder misfiring due to a faulty coil pack. During the time the check engine light would be on constantly (from the second the car started). The coil has been fixed for 2 weeks now and all was fine for about 4 days until the CEL came on again when I started up the car, only this time it took a few seconds to come on. I turned the car off and on again and all was fine for another couple of days. The engine would run a bit rough, but nothing compared to when it was misfiring and it would feel fine after I restart the car. So over the past two weeks the light would randomly come on when I started the car, but would go out after I simply turned the car off and back on. Yesterday though I took it down to my mechanic pals and had them look in the ECU to see what codes were being set off. Apparently it was something to do with an 'ignition problem' or similar. They put it down to me using a newly cut key, and not the original key as it might have some transponder business built in that communicates with the car. They reset the ECU codes and I left. Since then, the CEL is still coming on, but now after a few minutes of driving. The car however feels fine to drive engine wise. There is some shuddering due to the tyres needing replacing and balancing. Could the shuddering from the wheels be triggering the CEL? Or am I looking at an oxygen sensor (or some other sensor) problem? Thanks in advance. Edit: Should probably add that the car is completely stock aside from an aftermarket headunit and alarm system.