Kinkstaah

Yeah this was also my suspicion, that pineapples exist to reinforce the OEM bushes because people CBF taking the subframe out to do it. Basically that pineapples and subframe lock collars perform the same intended task. The cup still bolts in under the bush/crush tube.. as to how it'll go I don't know. Two of the bushes at the back look mostly the right shape. The ones up front clearly have the impressions left by the pineapples. Time will tell whether this will work/make any difference. Ideally I would not want any lock collars or pineapples, I'd just want the bush to do the job of the bush. Time will tell if the car works correctly with only the poly bushes in the state they're in. Worth seeing, I think. What panel work are you looking at? I'm shelving everything from the A pillar forward because it's shit/doesn't function and this was before I drove off at the track and then drove into somebody! A second hand Reo and brackets is $1000, which is just cray when Mr.Hammer turns this piece of metal in regular metal shape.. considering it needs to be drilled to be adapted to the GTR headlight brackets anyway... So I'm all for $0 instead of $2000 (new 34 GTR reo) for the same result lol.

Thats the current state of the reo. Bit ew, but GTR Reo and supporting bars are $2000, and 2nd hand GTT ones are $1000... More engine disassembly. The good news is Various LS weird sounds are apparently normal Everything coming out is in perfect condition The bad news is: Everything coming out is in perfect condition It looks like whoever assembled this engine ~25,000km ago was telling the truth with what's in it and how they did it. Even things I was unsure of like the timing chain - But it's a brand new double row timing chain, spaced perfectly. They even cut up the stock windage tray to keep it instead of being lazy and to work with the baffle. Cam, Heads, springs, LS7 lifters, Pushrods - All look new and have obviously been working perfectly. In other news, we removed the pineapples that were loaded below the superpro subframe bushes. They look a fair bit munted and have deformed the poly bushes that are 'above' them. I'm telling myself that now that there's space 'under' the bush between the little cup that bolts in... that having a pineapple wedged there was bad and basically made the rear end solid. The pineapple and the superpro bush are ... equally deformed (i.e they have deformed one another from being smashed together). We'll see how it goes with bushes only. I am sure this cope will fail and the answer will be to drop the subframe and put nismo rubber bushes in there instead. $400 worth of gaskets and ARP head bolts to replace perfectly new looking gaskets that absolutely weren't leaking and were installed perfectly with great care - because god damnit.

I also don't mean to rain on your parade. But with a 5-10k budget for road only? I'd want to check confirmation that everything IS working correctly and I'm with @GTSBoy for a plan of action here. I'd be checking subframes, bushes, exhaust hangers, interior bits and generally QOL things and CONFIRMING they are working right before thinking about motor. You can get 250KW+ on stock RB26 hardware by simply removing the built in restrictors and tuning the stock ECU. If you want purity that's as far to take it, which I would be worried to do and won't think the budget would allow for when earnestly checking for 30+ year old car stuff.

I specifically said buy new performance car because of the use case here (i.e, no track use and fun livable everything/do it all easily if not especially amazing as a drivers car). Tracking an 80K Skyline and an 80K M2 makes the BMW the obviously more risky purchase WHEN something goes wrong you suddenly can't easily fix it with hand tools and readily available parts that you may have a community of people you know available, or years of your own knowledge on the platform to apply. There's reasons you see Hondas and Vettes and RB's and Miatas and such at tracks, you can easily hand-tool repair 99.9% of it in a shed, usually with the tools and the skillset of the owner to apply to it. An i30N is not going to beat a R chassis unless it's got massive problems either. The old cars can, and still do work great. The problem is - and always has been - social media would have you believe it's simple and easy to achieve the results you see online. People want their car to be like "one of those cool JDM cars" which is the default image people have when they think of "cool JDM cars" You are paying 25 years of catchup R&D to achieve. Or the knowledge somebody else has to do it for you, which is big dollar restomod stuff. The bar has been moved and every R chassis that people see/like/enjoy has 25 years of R&D thrown at it, or is owned by someone who did all that work and has that knowledge over the past 25 years. All the survivors have been progressively resto-modded the entire time. OR you slowly bring it back to how it was stock. Which is also prohibitively expensive, done for the love of it. This is what the JDM community is now. This is fine, but "Where do I start?" is either: 1) Don't 2) Take your own slow journey but you cannot compare your progress with others who have had 25 years of R&D and experience building their own cars unless you pay for it.

I've already gone over the cam. A new one is going in. An old one is coming out! The new one is smaller, with less overlap. It has way more lift, but it will be more mild mannered (hopefully, probably very minorly) I'm also measuring for two more mufflers, with the goal of having four mufflers in my car. But that probably will be done by an exhaust shop in a drive in, measure, buy parts, install parts later kind of deal.

GTSBoy is again on the money. My actual advice? Sell the car. (really). For what it's worth as is, you can sidegrade into something much better. If you care about function then this is the actual move. If you want a Skyline to perform, set aside about $100K to do it. This is NOT a typo. You will see right away these are two very different mindsets. Realistically we're talking full restomod for any Skyline still kicking around. Have an honest think about which one you are.. and what you want to do, and how much you want to invest in this (with no return).

I promise there will be no chance of replacing the rad support.... It is barely twisted and it's way more likely to just be driven around with a slightly twisty support. As long as the headlight can be bolted in there then no harm no foul lol. The reo may need to be un-bent a little but truth be told if it all somewhat lines up and is hidden when the car is assembled the level of f**ks will be 0.0

Sorry, that was with regards to the rather pretzeled corner of the reo bar. It's in such a state over the years that drilling a hole is probably preferable to bothering to unbolt the thing

Yea the photos aren't the best. When I was pulling the bumper and headlights out there was a bodyshop guy looking on for it, there is a slight bend behind where the passenger headlight is, but we're talking a few MM and there is a little bit of a bend for the reo. That said it's supposedly well within the "Drill a hole in it and pull it out with a slide hammer to be close enough" and be on our way. The other option is to buy a GTR reo for the GTR bumper bits but this is a $2000+ fix for something Mr Hammer can probably do 99% of the job for and everything will/can line up pretty closely-to-good-enough.

Welp, things are coming apart. The bending was both not as bad and maybe a bit worse than I was guessing. I'm told this will bend out pretty easily. That said, it hasn't been bent out yet :p. The guard itself also needs a bit of tap tap love but as you can probably surmise, pulling the motor is the other thing going on. Yes I'm very silly, i've completed multiple problem-free track day (other than my driving off the track) on a 40C day multiple times doing 80+ laps a day, to and from the track, and to reward this excellent service I'm pulling the engine out to tinker with it. Or I'm standing by to look/learn/not mess up/pay someone money to do it correctly, I'm not that crazy. More disassembly tonight, and then re-assemble with very expensive fresh new bits to make ~3kw more and be... more reliable? Yes, I've questioned the logic of upgrading valvetrain pieces for better high RPM stability and reliability on a motor which doesn't seem to have those problems to begin with in any practical sense from my experience/what I use it for, thank you.

That's the thing, they still add it and it makes fuel cheaper, implying adding 10% of it drops the cost of 91 by what, 5c a liter? I remember when it was barely half the price of 98. Because you know, 85% of what is in the fuel is way cheaper than 91 fuel is by volume.

I'm not sure they came in different hardnesses? Going from memory only - I had set them up in the balanced setup. I also have poly bushes, so I have both poly bushes and pineapples. This is what my memory tells me at least. I'll have to take a look under there to be sure. The tramp was so bad that I managed to eject/kill a diff bushing, so those I know are stock. The tramp is bad enough that you are 200% sure you are doing severe damage to the car. It's not just chirping or vibration, it feels like you're hitting a speed hump/kerb 10 times a second. The issue has persisted between subframes! (I went from Hicas to non hicas subframe and replaced every bush a few years ago now) so I'm entirely lost. Every arm is factory.

As someone who has pineapples, and horrible axle tramp... should I change these to collars? Is that what you're saying here? Why did you choose these instead of getting pineapples where you said you had good experiences of? I'd love to even attempt to get rid of axle tramp, I either get complete bogginess or absolute insane wheelspin, anything even remotely in between results in filling-removal axle tramp, to the point where launching the car is just not something I do.

Lucky for that, because putting ethanol in fuel only lowers the bulk cost of fuel if it's in 91 Add it to 98, 85% of it even and it quintuples in price. Strange physics. f**k you United, Gouging c***ts.

Well, now I know that object exists