Kinkstaah

Twas your car many moons ago that gave me the idea!

You ask for things. You specifically state you want responsiveness. A link was provided for a far superior, more responsive option. Find a MX5 workshop that will install it for you. Maybe MX5 Mania will throw on the Fab9 kit. It seems they want to charge almost 14K installed for their kit, so if they charge you $6K to install the FAB9 kit then you'll be ahead? Though really, the 2.5 with a 2860 running low boost will more or less feel as good as anything else. It's a lot of displacement and a small turbo. Think of a more modern RB26 with one stock turbo :p TBH, truth be told I've been driving my own car, and use about 50% throttle at most for 99.9% of the time. Mr Bogan is likely similar so this is all going to be semantics for the use case he actually has. (He'll be happy with anything relative to now) However, the EFR is hands down far superior in this use case. You really, really, really, really do notice it over the Garrett or equivalent.

I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.

STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.

Buy someone else's modified car. It'll be risky - but so is modifying it yourself. People with Modified cars are often ready to sell. Find a nice sorted one, pocket the difference.

All of those are near new/brand new/done under 10,000km! This means something! It also doesn't necessarily mean anything.... The idea is of course to fit wider tyres and rims, and to go with engine head updates, I'm sure it will be faster the subsequent time out. But TBH the difference will largely be in driver mod between one day and the next I'm sure. To say I am unseasoned after many years away from even driving remotely fast is an understatement. Giving it half throttle and "Whoa, that's a bit excessive.." and realizing I'm doing 80kmh in a 100 zone is evidence enough lol. I have noticed that there is heat haze/steam/air/something absolutely steaming out of the car after parking it. I didn't drive it in the 40C day for testing yesterday, but on Christmas day it was ~32 and you could literally see the air coming out from the bay after parking the car. Whether that's enough though..

I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like! I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard

So my car is finally back from paint! This took an absolutely insane amount of work and should get it's own build thread - but I didn't build it. It was completed by Troy @ https://scalekustoms.com.au/ I originally bought the AOSHIMA URAS Type R kit while I was in Japan, it's supposed to look like this when assembled: Now, I thought that was cool enough until I opened the box with Dismay, as there's no way I could possibly have completed it. The thing is 1/24 and has details down to the steering wheel horn button, which is a 2mm diameter sticker. I originally wondered if someone could make it at all, as is - But then things got a little carried away. It's worth noting that the model does not have an openable bonne, let alone engine bay, OR an openable boot. - Troy has worked wonders with 3D printer and presumably better eyes than I will ever have. My photos suck, so I will post up some of his in-progress ones he sent to me during the way. Unsuprisingly, he is very detailed. A lot of these are out of order. But he: 1) Made a LS engine and an engine bay appear out of thin air 2) Made the bonnet removable 3) Printed the rims I will buy in the future (or any rim you want) 4) Printed and added the wing that is going on 5) Tinted my back windows as this is what my car has IRL (privacy glass) 6) Added a licence plate. 7) Somehow did the interior 8) 3D Printed my actual seats 9) Made the exhaust under the car connect even though this is likely invisible. 10) Created a boot with my fking battery box, power steering reservoir, subwoofer and toolboxes back there. To say it's insane is an understatement. And I f**ked it all up because when I was re-mounting the wing (it broke in transit) I spilled glue everywhere and ripped paint up and Gregged the rear half of the car. Which about makes sense. Also, this arrived on the same day. Quite the change from: I spent 16 hours per day over the next 3 days pre-christmas putting the interior back together, mounting lip, fixing various bodykit problems with window mouldings, etc. and servicing, rebuilding my 370z brakes to go on the car 'soon', messing with heights to check clearances for new wheels, etc. I also had a foray into mounting wiper-mounted washer jets which was an absolute disaster. The bodyshop has welded (and painted) over the stock jet locations for reasons unknown to everybody (i.e they forgot) I also wanted to wire in the oil pressure sensor on Christmas Eve which was a BAD IDEA. You do not know terror like pulling your ECU apart, pinning in half-fitting pins that aren't the right ones, but trying anyway because it's Christmas eve, putting your ECU back together and having a no-start condition with a fuel pump not priming. Then you undo all your work and the fuel pump still doesn't prime. So after all that terror and horror and pain and tedious disassembly, the issue was the relay in the boot which seems to have died/stuck when I was turning the car off and on about 700 times testing shitty washer jets. I also re-wired the fuel pump power plug which fell apart in my hands. I am very happy I had 3 extra pre-made ones from a few posts/last Christmas's breakdown. https://bluewireautomotive.com/products/10-x-pcm-ecm-ecu-terminals I have put an order for these in, so I can actually add the pins to the ECU properly. The commodore ECU does not have the pins for Oil Pressure via ODB2. However the ECU can support it if you create the pins and wire them in. So for round two, and somehow attempting to route that into the engine bay through my impossible engine bay grommet is a fight for another day. It's 40C in Melbourne tomorrow, I am half tempted to drive the car with the aircon on to deliver presents to my partner's family and see if it helps with the overheating-on-40C-days-in-traffic-with-aircon-on-only issue that the vents were intended to solve. Do I feel lucky?

Unfortunately man I don't think there's much here. You may very well be the only person to ever interact with/modify/have to un-modify that wiring. I was once selling a stalk. Due to how Nissans Nissan, the indicators and the hazards are on the same circuit. if you don't fully plug in the hazard switch, the hazards will work but your indicators won't. People then go looking for indicator stalks, but the issue is the hazard switch not being plugged in fully. That is the entire encyclopedia of R34 indicator knowledge lol

The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p

These arrived today! Sadly I'm going to probably be smart and enjoy the car as is over the summer/sunny period and save the ~2 weeks downtime it'd take to swap the heads over and tune later in the year. Maybe. It's going to be pretty damn tempting seeing these bolt on funs just sitting in storage when they're ready to go. There's a non-zero chance I end up @The Bogan'ing it.

in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.

A 180SX has a much better look than a FD. The roofline is far superior being a fastback. It's popups look better. In a world where we all subconsciously add a little bit of low, and wheels of our preference, it's just more handsome than the FD is. The FD just looks 'bubbly' in comparison. It can come down to preference, sure. But "The FD is the BEST looking (on appearances alone) 90's JDM car without question?" Nah. Plenty of questions lol. I could think of 8 cars I think look fundamentally better, and probably a handful of ones that look about on par with a FD. (like say a SW20 MR2) I feel people like/overrate the FD because of it's mythicality/rarity, its rotary and it's unpredictable nature. It probably drives great, you can stuff a ton of tyre under there, has a unique sound, light as hell. I feel that people reading this thinking "YOU CANT RATE A 180 ABOVE A FD BECAUSE A 180 IS A CHEAP DRIFT BUCKET" prove the point about bias as to what the car represents, moreso than how it actually looks.. I feel the 80's boxy/squared off look is becoming better looking due to time, and 90's melted soap bar aesthetics have not aged well. (yet?) And this thread is purely about looks :p

I wonder if people like the FD because it reminds them of old 60's roadsters and such. It just gives me such a 'roadster/soft cruising' vibe as opposed to anything more hard-edged and purposeful. That, mixed with 90's melted soap bar styling. It's hardly ugly, but it's kinda oddly proportioned to me, relative to about 10 other cars I had a think about based on this thread.

The FD just looks like a run of the mill MX5. A nice car, yes. Pretty girly looking. Struggles to be in the top 10.

It looks superior to any 90's JDM car. It is the king of any event, or parking lot, or track day with people that see them in person. You may not like it, but this is the absolute truth any time a NSX shows up anywhere where people's physical eyeballs are at. I've seen rows of people standing in front of R34 GTR's and FD's stop conversation and turn and look at a NSX in envy multiple times.

NSX. Nobody can really argue any other and not be ridiculed. Come on. Get serious. I vote the R Chassis as the most 'distinctive' or 'iconic' or what have you.

When wing then?

The correct answer is body colour. Admittedly it does look pretty handsome as-is in grey.

The cam I am actually putting in (a few posts up) is actually smaller than my current one. At least duration/overlap wise. All the chop stuff I hear just sounds like an engine running badly, because it is. I then envision driving it around in 1st gear and being massively sad about it bucking to the beat of said chop. There is an idle video of someone with a similar cam floating around the internet, but mine is a custom cam (so is his) so it'll never be the same, plus the fact exhausts are entirely different. What I want to do is put some bullet mufflers/race mufflers in to replace a couple sections straight pipes that currently replace the two extra cats that I don't need. But this is even further down the line!

I went back in today (I just wander into the body shop on a 2 week interval now). Hmmm. Slowly but surely! Various other parts around the place done/half done/inside done but outside yet to do, etc. Still have no real idea as to what colour this car is, just like all the BMW's I saw online (and in person). Just looks a different shade of colour from any angle at any picture taken of it. The differing levels of dust obviously do not help.

Those would be the infamous -5 Turbos. They're okay, 20psi on them on 93/98 is right on par with what everyone else can sort of flow for those, irrespective of what the output on the dyno shows. There's probably plenty of results in the RB26 thread with -5's and various levels of mods on petrol/gas to sort of compare it to. They aren't as popular a choice now, and kinda weren't then as they're large, oldschool things, and twins never got the same kind of RND development that singles got which is what Dose is alluding to by telling you to put something modern on. Just call it period correct and enjoy the rest of the car not blowing itself to pieces (which can, and will happen once you really get obsessed with power numbers).

What turbos are on it? 356 American KW is possibly the best place to be if you want to use the car. Close the internet and hit up a twisty road and ignore all other opinions and see whether you have fun driving the car around.

Well yeah - I know the tyres quoted above are technically road legal, but nobody shows up to a hill run or a cruise on them, because they burn too quick and they GENERALLY exist as the "track only tyre" for an otherwise road/track hybrid car. I suppose they could fit the bill to drive *to* the track on them instead of changing tyres there on the day. I suppose it makes sense when it comes to slicks. Otherwise you'd just drive to the track and change tyres. And if you're gonna do that I don't know why nobody picks up a slick for those uses, even for regular road car track days/HPDE use non-competition but fun stuff. I just always find it a bit funny that people will say "but street car bro on street tyres" even if said street tyres would never really be driven on the street. May as well have a slick and just enjoy the full potential on the track. *pending suspension or grip related roll overs or god knows what which may/may not apply. Nankang CRS (v2) will be my choice too in some faraway era where my car exists and goes to a track again, by which time all the options may have been updated :p. Seem to be on par with the A052 everywhere when tested back to back except half the price, and wear slower. Goes to show how fast tyre tech has come, the newest product generally is the bestererest as it comes out.

Based on this comment I went googling. A052's in the sizes I want are certainly not cheap, but I couldn't find anything in the V70A anywhere. How much do they run/where do they get sourced from? From what I know (nothing but internet searches and reviews etc) the R888 has pretty much fallen off from anyone's actual use, and the AO52 is the king of "road legal" rubber. Nobody is driving around on their daily for Z221, AO050, DZ03G. At that point, for purely track only tyres - Why not buy actual slicks? Why does nobody actually do that anyway?