Kinkstaah

Well, I'm back from the dyno today. Some things do partially make sense. The pod filter/airbox delete picked up between 6-10rwkw on 98 - because heat soak does kind of affect things and there was playing with tune/timing/AFR. Oddly enough, the car was running much leaner than before. So lean it was audibly pinging on the dyno which I got video of: 70de0dd5-2099-4a71-8b10-6fc833fb9d59.mp4 We're talking going from ~12.7 in the past to the first run being at like ~14.0. It is now tuned to ~12.5 on the Dyno, which correlates to about ~12.1 on my wideband in the car. These matched last time, which is very odd. The dyno plots only show the dyno's reported AFR - should be last time, yet now it no longer agrees and was way leaner. Nobody has an explanation for how a pod can make the car run notably leaner, yet not really give any more power when you add fuel in. A few different types of intake design were tested: 94c22c34-7991-4902-af85-314b5f5bf352.mp4 There was no difference other than IAT with the pod sticking out of the bay. The pod sticking out of the bay (but connected) is actually still warmer than what I usually see on the road. Removing the pod entirely lost about ~2kw. But to be fair, all of the runs could be argued to vary by that amount when temperatures climb etc etc. It's safe to say that the filter isn't causing any restrictions of any note that can be reasonably altered in any way. This is in line with what I'd expect given the Engine Masters testing. 323KW on 98 and ~335KW on E85 is actually a pretty solid result, up about ~45kw from 99% of LS1 cammed combos, with generally much larger cams/exhaust etc as well. It is after all up 42KW (98) and 54KW (E85) from before. +10KW from a pod and removing the box is cheap as chips compared to what the head work cost per kw No, I did not get to drop the exhaust and test. When it comes to exhaust... it all just seems to change frequencies and cost or gain 2hp here or there. I don't realistically think I'll drop this to test it - because there's not much else I can really do about it/route it any other way/make it bigger/just bought mufflers. Engine masters beat the hell out of headers with a hammer to deliberately kink them and didn't lose power at all, I sincerely doubt that going larger primaries would help. If it were even possible for clearance/conversion reasons... which it's not... I may throw the E85 in there at some point and do a drag run to see what MPH it traps for science. It isn't lost on me that ~320kw Skylines do trap about the same MPH that ~370kw F-Body/Corvettes do in the USA for the same or similar weight. (122-125mph). Of course, if I go there and trap 104mph or something then I'll just 'accidentally' have an accident on the way home from the drag strip and buy a M4.

100% Also "Not wanting to spend money" is THE WORST IDEA IMAGINABLE when coming to a project car of any kind. They EXIST to BURN MONEY. Sure, gas money is a thing. A stock car with the worst fuel economy ever sold would probably be cheaper than modifying a car with FREE petrol for the life of your ownership of it, lol.

Yeah see, I didn't want to gatekeep but there's a difference in enjoying fixing seals and making things 'right' versus throwing money at a 1000HP R33. Most don't have the option, maybe the OP does. But this well into built, not bought category and I don't think I'm alone in saying people who do this get a bit of an asterisk as to their "Car guy" status. Yes it's a slippery slope - Someone may say "Well if you don't do 100% of the labor rebuilding your own engine, are you really a car guy?" but I think it'd be a lie to say we don't all feel that way to a degree when it comes to 'built not bought'.

This is actually great advice. Lets be honest. Most of car modification is fixing up broken things. If you can find joy in fixing up something that is cheap for a reason (anything) then you will enjoy car mods. If you don't enjoy and get satisifaction fixing up things that are broken (even minor, trivial things like brackets, and plugs, and wiring, and seals, etc), then this is not the hobby for you.

I definitely don't.... I have a Samsung S9. Though for giggles I did this as I was messing with idle calcs anyway and thought, well. This is with the Civic parked right behind it. Basically almost touching. I have no idea if that affects anything but this is hardly a fully scientific test lol. Varex Closed: Varex Open:

I'm gonna use the "Sound Meter" app from the Google Play Store and as close as I can bother to these procedures: 4. TEST METHOD FOR ALL VEHICLES EXCEPT PRE ADR83 IN-SERVICE GOODS VEHICLES AND OMNIBUSES 4.1 Microphone position 4.1.1 The microphone shall be directed towards the orifice of the exhaust outlet and shall be supported by a tripod or similar device not providing excessive acoustic reflection. The general requirements for positioning microphones are shown in the Appendix. 4.1.2 The nominal axis of maximum sensitivity of the microphone shall be substantially parallel to the test site surface and shall make an angle of 45 degrees ±10 degrees with the principal direction of gas flow from the exhaust. 4.1.3 In selecting the 45 degree alignment from the outlet of a motor vehicle fitted with two or more outlets, only the angle resulting in the microphone being farthest from any other outlet must be used. National Stationary Exhaust Noise Test Procedures for In-Service Motor Vehicles Page 3 4.1.4 The height of the microphone above the test site surface shall be equal to that of the orifice of the exhaust outlet ±25mm but shall not be less than 200mm above the test site surface. 4.1.5 The distance of the microphone from the exhaust outlet orifice shall be 500mm±25mm. 4.1.6 [Relates to vertical exhaust outlets] 4.1.7 For vehicles fitted with one exhaust outlet the microphone shall be placed so that the greatest possible distance is achieved between it and the vehicle. 4.1.8 [Relates to multi exhaust outlets] 4.1.9 [Relates to multi exhaust outlets] TLDR: 200mm off ground 45 degree angle relative to exhaust flow 500mm from tailpipe exit. (I probably won't use a tripod) Here's a photo, cause I read the instructions wrong myself.

I did change bodyshops. The most recent place was very fast. I think the trick is to have smaller, simpler jobs. A front end repaint and some (extensive) sideskirt and fender stuff is a 'small cash' job for them. It was expensive but 'worth' it purely cause: 1) They did everything great 2) They did everything fast Get what you pay for maybe? Pictured: Very stock looking car from my very old phone. I did realise that oncoming traffic would probably be like "Oh look at this guy, commuting around in a GTR!" (until they see the side profile). This is the sad state of my fender liners and front fitment with my current stock GTR sized wheels (18x9 +30) This is how the rear sits with a 25mm spacer. I say 25mm because it's actually a 20mm spacer sitting on the studs which are ~30-31mm, and the wheels have a ~5mm cutout. So... this is very not safe to drive. This is the other side.. .with a 22mm spacer. Yes, the studs are ~27mm. Yes they're different both sides. I spent a fair amount of time measuring. This was the old pod setup behind the box in the past. Old vs New Pod she tells you not to worry about: Turns out I measured this pod filter pretty damn accurately which I was chuffed about. I went for a ~3hr drive for 'testing' reasons up into Healseville hills. Believe it or not, the induction noise is the same between small and large pod. I guess it has more to do whether a pod is *present* or not, and the diameter of the pipe. It does sound very decent in cabin though (and extremely 'smooth') - Though behind the car the exhaust noise is nonexistent now. So uh, it's all for the driver. I'm confident it has to be quieter than @Dose Pipe Sutututu's car. I should test it. Is there a way to do it with an app or something we can both agree on? (we are both very old men now competing for quietest car) I've texted Trent at Chequered to book in to see some before/after. I can now twist the pod entirely out of the engine bay on the dyno to really rule in/out any intake restrictions. And/or remove the pipe entirely which I will probably do for testing reasons. The logs show *maybe* a difference in ambient KPA vs Intake KPA at wot. But I'm talking the difference to -3/4 before to maybe -2/3 now. The tune is not wildly out or even changed at all. The only takeaway I have is the car is on 17% ethanol as it's still got the fuel from the dyno in it. It's plausible that that tune would have resulted in the car erring on the side of being too rich (it was) and right now it seems to be bang on perfect or within -0.5% either side of target. I was tempted to take it to a Drag day to see what MPH it would trap (and tune the car) but then I wouldn't have a number and a pretty line. I may do that after I re-hit the dyno, purely to go to LS1tech and shout about how their dynos are all very inaccurate while my low HP car traps the same MPH as cars with the same setup in the US, who make 375RWKW (supposedly). It was safe to say Mr Mamo was not really happy with me posting the results yet. So I owe it to at least try the intake thing for my own sake and not besmirch people who want to buy a similar USA heads and cam setup and get disgusted that they make lower HP than simple bolt-ons which can be up to the "330rwkw+" kw region over there - Which here equates to about 270kw. (and runs the same 115-118mph)

I recently calculated how much I've spent in paint and bodypart bits. All for currently 0 performance improvement. If I never did the heads or paint I would have been able to just buy one of the M4's and have 10k in change. That's how un-fun M4's are

Rent one. I drove a M4 Comp DCT and it was the most un-inspiring thing I've ever driven. Annoyingly, I still seem to want one/think M cars are 'cool'? Badge Engineering/Marketting is a big thing. It may be because a M car that has been modded to be rougher/trackier could end up being in a sweet spot of 'actually engaging' as opposed to taking a normally fun car and making it too rough to daily. There's something about a M4 with a half cage and carbon door cards and M colored straps etc that is appealing for reasons I don't quite understand. But from driving one, it was awful. Definitely try properly before you can't go back.

Well then. Forget ZF8, return to BMW DCT swap.

Really? I assumed the MKV Supra was almost completely bulletproof with some mods to the ZF8 to hold the power? Shift kits and tunes etc. I can't imagine it'd be much different in any other application? Would be curious to read more about it.

Car is now back - I have the Nismo fender extensions on it too. Body place did a really good job with melding them to fit the sedan. I'd take a photo of the whole car, but it's somewhat hard to do from where it's parked in the carport. The OEM'ness is growing on me. As is the desire to buy wheels - But it would be flat out dumb to buy maybe fitting wheels with minimum precision and rush to fit them before going on a Tasmania road trip. Probably better to do that one with OEM spec wheels on it. I also bought a pod filter. It is not OEM spec.

This is kind of what I expected given the use case. I took my liners out for track days too.... It makes me consider just getting a diffuser and not bothering with the arch liners themselves. For the most part I would like to avoid water/mud/jank splashing up from under the car onto the bottom of the engine, lines, wiring, etc etc. (but brake ducts are cool too). Especially given this post on SAU here: Where it's implied you have to cut them because the actual tub is different? Which is pretty damn worrying because that is where the liners rub in a GTR with wider wheels... I definitely won't want to pay $2000 for plastic then cut them up. It also means said wider wheels rub on the tub in a GTT? FML. That said, I have found some evidence someone ran a 295/30/18 without scrubbing these liners. (and by extension.. the tub).

Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?) 2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?

Have you *seen* the prices of these new? It's about 2K. Anyone have an old set for some crazy reason they want to sell for a bit less than that? I am in Vic but shipping is a thing/could potentially work too.

My car is also flex tuned. It's worth mentioning it (the LS1 ECU) has a 1D table for E85 addition and just uses the ethanol stoich part as the second point of reference. It also as a 3D timing map for Ethanol adjustment. You would think this isn't enough but it works pretty damn well. That said, I wouldn't want it in turbo application. It's like lifting non-natty, or taking meth. It gets you unrealistic results that break down more things going forward. If people used it to make the same amount of power they do on 98 then it'd be one thing. But people use it, crank it up to eleventy million PSI, it doesn't knock - but it pushes the point of failure to another, more expensive thing to break. Every time I see someone make 280kw on 98 and 350kw on E85 on the same equipment I just cry a bit and really wish they would just stay on 98 in that exact scenario. It's bad for you.

That is what I took from it too. Needed to go AWD S14 imo.

And P R I C E. I love 98. 10kw loss 20% cheaper for a liter, 30+% more range per km, and available everywhere

soon I also prefer the old look. At least I have more clearance for wheels up front now.

I do believe from context he is talking about a S0/S1 R33 RB25 with associated ECU and Wiring for that, and a manual gearbox into a R34 N/A Auto. I don't have the knowledge of all the pinouts and such but my gut feeling from doing my own conversion is to use as much of the R33 stuff that you can. The "car" wiring is quite seperate from the "Engine" wiring when all things are considered. The only things to truly consider 99% of the time is the cluster, reverse lights and potentially disabling the 'not in P/N' immobilizer circuit.

This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...

Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-

So you can then buy a more expensive, less reliable, more boring and slower replacement that's harder to work on and you have no knowledge of?

Thank god. I thought I was the only one, nobody seems to mention this (cause nobody really goes this far in Sedan land). The car's track is 10mm wider at the rear, which explains why the rears sit a little further out for the same size wheels. There's not really many options in widebody land for sedans anyway - People will just use whatever came out of the box and then buy wheels/spacers to suit. To get it perfect you'll likely need custom wheels with custom offsets if you really want to get it perfect which is what I plan to do, but I also plan to utilize more of the inboard space for tyres at the rear... which is also something nobody ever seems to do.... OR my maths have failed me after 20,000 attempts and I'm about to make huge mistakes.

The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.