Kinkstaah

You know, when you said '24 Dodge I legitimately interpreted that as 2024.

Can I ship you my non symmetrical guards then? lol

It's not that E30 is bad. I recently did a track day and half of the reason I took ethanol is because when I ran out of jerries, 'some' ethanol is better than none for protection and stuff, even N/A. The problem with E30 is attempting to maintain E30. It's an akward target to hit and the maths required make the whole thing near impossible very fast.

United E85 is always 85% ethanol. At least it claims to be. But that goes out of the window about thirty seconds after you put a tank of it into your car and can't do the math to determine if you have 76% ethanol, or 47% ethanol or 26% ethanol because you put 33L in, then 16L in, then a full tank of 98, then "Some" E85. Ethanol tunes that aren't full flex or full E85 all the time are just absolutely a waste of time. Don't be stupid and ruin your car.

Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....

Believe it or not, it's about right, remember it's also the 4AT which is worth a good bit too. This sounds along just right with everything else ever posted here on a stock turbo at reasonable boost.

You have the option to do this. Nobody but me ever did this (go slower, I mean) Everyone seems to fall victim to "This would be a great setup for you, but for me, I need a little more power..."

No, lets be honest here. I went to Winton and did a track day, for all the mods and V8 power and craziness I posted up a time that a K24 stock motor Honda Accord can do on the same tyres (narrower, too) 250kw and learning how to drive the f**kin thing is the sweet spot.

It actually means give it less throttle.

Damn, as someone who just glued the damn things in (very slightly askew but better) I wish I saw this, or someone made this. Would be worth linking this to Boosted International. They're always looking for product ideas and this is something they would likely make.

You know what, I'll double or nothing. Save your money, buy a V8 Manual Mustang in 2 years and have a more fun street car with better support and all that. I often tell people "if I could do it all again, I wouldn't". Sell your R34 GTT to someone, spend the 20k in difference between that and a 2018 Gen2 V8 Manual Mustang. I'll bet you will have the $ in your pocket by the time you spend the ~20K differential on mods and get them installed. Just planting this seed for future regrets. Blah blah, wisdom of people who would do it differently who are at the end of the road you are just starting on, etc. Car modding is often death by a thousand cuts as you wait to afford the next big mod. Imagine a 2 door Skyline with a 330KW N/A V8 Revving to 7500rpm like the RB25, with 315's all round.

Just putting it out there, that's a decent list. You would be better off *not* doing *any* of that and buying someone else's modded car. Like mine. Or anybody else's. Yes it's lotto dependent and all this and that but that 70K (remember, double your guesses) could go elsewhere. Keep it stock, save your money, go lowball @Dose Pipe Sutututu :p

Ah my friend, messing with the engine and looking for more power is the gateway into "no more driving the Skyline" Tread carefully

I have a friend who has used Chequered Tuning and CMS. Went to CMS when Chequered had a long wait time which is kind of the norm (for good reason). Was very happy - I'm pretty sure the very simple thing you're asking will be simple.

I think old mate is going to continue to hold out for awhile at that price

It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.

Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..

Given by the sheer number of questions about offset, absolutely not. If you had the information formatted this way: Space from R34 GTT hub to outer arch = 100mm Space from R34 GTT inner hub to nearest suspension arm = 90mm. (making this up) Buying a wheel that was advertised as Enkei RPZ5 Diameter 18in Width 9 Distance to arch = 84mm Distance to suspension arm = 76mm 100% of people would know instantly if it fits. They would absolutely also know instantly how close it fits too, and no questions would need to be asked. You would know you would have 16mm from the guard and 14mm from the suspension arm.

Perhaps, and it's deceptively similar. I was yesterday days old when I first heard anyone mention that the default guards have exactly XXXmm space. No more "is 8.5+37 going to be flush/fit, or will it poke? how much? 9.5 +16.9?" etc. Can just do maths and subtract from 100 - Shit, Wheels should have this measurement stamped on them. "This wheel extends 74mm from the hub in one direction and 57mm in the other" This is a far better system than offset, inches, and backspacing.

This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but..

Wait a little longer and I can sell you an altia bar with brackets But yeah, S2 stuff has been long since junked so is annoyingly rare for what should be a part nobody actually seems to want, either.

Sorry no - The sandtrap adventure ended the day, happened at the end of the last session. At that time I wasn't hearing any weird noises nor were the brakes shuddering anymore. It was only when watching the videos that I remembered I had these sounds early on!

Strangely I noticed it either disappear later in the day, or not be present. I definitely noticed when I was crawling around that open wheel thingy entering the pits (that part was audible in car). Driving home and commuting around town for example, I didn't hear it. It's plausible that it was a brake disc or something still slightly in contact. The brakes absolutely felt BAD for the first couple of sessions, huge amounts of shudder and grinding as they got up to temp - And then I actually just forgot about it as the day went on/didn't notice it. The videos were from the morning when this was more present than the afternoon/drive home when it wasn't. I've asked around and got a variety of responses including handbrake shoe contacting hub, CV joints, CB tailshaft bearing as above, and clutch input bearing. I didn't test if it disappeared when clutch was in. I haven't noticed it in any of the other videos nor did I notice it when driving to that extent. More or less hoping the microphone at the rear license plate giving some kind of clue of 'something' but it looks like "spin stuff and see if you can notice it" is the way forward here. I could be smart and use the gopro mic and re-mount it to that location to see if the sound is still present at low speed actually. Sounds like a decent test whenver I have the CBF'ness to drive the car again. Given it's almost 40C for the day of the track day and the next 3 days after, the CBF is high. All I've done since getting home is unpack the car, remove the remnants of the lip and undertray and left it there. I was surprised how well the PMU Club Racers actually worked. The brake performance on the track was absolutely fantastic, best I've ever personally used, no fade whatsoever and the bitiness was almost too good, I was scrubbing more speed off than I needed to, but I also ended up infield when I started trying to scrape off ... less speed.... so...

Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.

WELP. I went to the track, and I suppose it went okay because any time you can drive home is okay. You may notice the car is not on the circuit in this picture. It was about 35C day out in Benalla which means the track was approximately the surface of the sun, probably. Good things, car did not overheat but it _was_ warmer than when I had done track days in similar heat before, I think, I'm not sure - I can't quite remember. Coolant got to ~105 via the ECU after 20-30 minutes of belting it in said heat. Oil got up to 145C in one instance which is pretty crazy due to oil cooler. Pressures were fine. I seem to remember this not getting quite so high before the vents. More HMMMM'ing to be done. On the subject of HMMM'ing, can anyone identify the sounds in the video below, you will know which ones I mean: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uj3BkI2cbTc I included some 'normal' sound as a reference for the first minute or so. The microphone in this instance was where the license plate is. It stopped working later in the day which is why my "best example of a lap video (not produced)" had internal audio - Isn't hearable from inside the car. I don't mean the chirping of the un-bedded/badly bedded track brakes which you can only hear while braking... Thoughts, brains trust?