Kinkstaah

Unkind reminder that VW SUV significantly less expensive and way more reliable than BMW sporty car. let alone a modified BMW sporty car.

Just to muddle things up. This is my GTX3076R compressor wheel which sounded great and was making 30psi and showed no performance problems. So who knows what's gonna happen

My problems are solved! Though to be honest (and be somewhat discouraging) I don't think it's a great plan. Mainly because even in V8 land if you stomp the throttle it's not some night and day difference say, under 4k. I tell people this all the time, my car makes ~210kw at 4k. If you floor it at 4k you get all the power and wildness that 210kw gets you. Not much really. If you floor it at 3k you get all the fury of ~130kw. And of course over 4k, well it makes less power than 90% of RB turbo setups. You could make the argument that "Well under 4k is where you spend most of your time driving" and that's true, except it's not like people are also spending their time driving under 4k at 100% throttle. Which means your intended speed really is determined by how fast the driver wants to go/whether you have traction. I don't think the PD is really a solid plan on a RB. People can commute around under 4k with a RB25 on 0psi just fine, and when your foot gets heavy people just don't stay under 4k and you get the best of both worlds. IMO the only benefit is mechanical simplicity/less internal issues, and partial throttle car-balance over 4000rpm. I sound like the ultimate wanker, but I will say that the LS really is a handling mod over anything else, in any area where the V8 N/A is comparable in power to a Turbo 2.5L or a PD driven 2.5L which for argument's sake we'll say is similar. (unless you want a scenario where you want 800KW where a RB+T is going to be just worse everywhere than a V8TT but that's not the discussion here :p)

I have what you want. A centrifugal charger could work (with regards to throttle respoonse), but it won't provide enough _power_ at lower RPM to feel like it's really giving you boost early. They really do feel identical to a larger, NA engine. The truth is I don't think this is going to exist anyway. I split multiple blocks purely on having too much power too early. POWER and low rpm equals a hell of a lot of torque, which creates all of the problems. I had a 2.8 with an EFR. It is as good as it's going to get. I guess you could go a 2.5 with a 7163 (or @CowsWithGuns's ill fated 7064), or go something silly like a bolt on manifold G25-550 with a .49 rear on a RB. I just don't think it's going to work. I guess someone could run a RB25 with a positive displacement blower, but I'm already scoffing at the first part of this sentence as I type it. I just can't see it working in any reasonable/practical fashion that results in happiness. My car drives really great and you should buy it. So I can buy.... something probably worse, as is the natural state of things. But I was the same line of thinking which lead to the heretic V8 decision. I wanted ~300kw of power, and I wanted that throttle response to be instant instead of waiting for 'laggy' EFR turbos to spin up, and that was with an EFR and a 2.8 running 11psi on the 7670.

Ahhh nah, my car is very high (relatively speaking), just has a non HICAS Subframe from a R34 (or S15, you know, it's all shared). I was under the impression I needed axles, the diff itself and subframe bushes and everything is entirely the same. Will obviously do more urgent research once "Ah f**k I've f**ked my diff, shit" happens, which may be never... I'm sure it's more complicated due to the fact I have a custom tailshaft already, but if you don't NEED a new tailshaft going to a 350z diff (i.e the OEM one bolts up and the dimensions are the same) then, woohoo, I guess.

I was under the impression that the 350Z diff was 'easy' (ish) I had planned to get a Quaife center in one if/when my current R34 helical gives up the ghost. How much pain am I actually in for trying to do this?

I mean with all the above taken into account, there's definitely some wisdom in just driving the fking thing, and a 250KW RB will not be in any danger with its low timing, low boost, and not making peak power at 7500rpm as you slam into the limiter. Conservative just means you're burning the candle more slowly after all, that has its own happy merits too.

6000rpm is weird. Usually the cutover point is half that. 3500. Could it be soft timing? I do not know. The way forward is gonna be check how those cams are degreed. Then get a second opinion/second tuner. The second opinion/second tuner could also be somebody who has installed RB cams before. They are stock cams, right? Of course, time poor and money poor does skew things.

I'm with Lithium on this one. What I'd actually love to see: a) More timing. Like 5 degrees+++ everywhere more timing. The old adage was "20 degrees at 20psi". You're nowhere near it. This is NOT a licence to just throw 5 degrees in and send it lol. b) An overlay of two runs, one with VCT off the entire run, and one with VCT on the entire run. This is usually how people decide the switching point. I know you said it was done at the tuner, but seeing those graphs would be very interesting. If one of the results from b) looks really strange, or the VCT switch over point is strange (like 6000+ rpm? or at 1000 rpm?) then that would be where you start looking as to how your cams have been physically set up.

That looks great, and I'm envious of your front bar fitment after having 'fun' with mine right now. I still don't understand the maths, because the new rear should poke 20mm further out than the new fronts do, but unless the rear got flared out 20mm more than the fronts did.. or you made a typo. Does look great though!

I mean, I hate to be that guy (cause I'll be poking the bear of further commentary) But you won't need additional mysterious arms for the car to not VEER left. I have stock arms. The car does not veer anywhere and toe is absolutely adjustable, as is camber (with an adjustable bush). If you have some scenario where the car is low as f*** then you may need aftermarket arms to dial camber OUT, but camber in and of itself does not make the car veer anywhere. Toe does. And toe is adjustable from the factory. Having 0 toe will result in the car going SLIGHTLY to the left on most roads due to the angle. It won't 'veer' and it won't make your tyres wear any faster, as they are following the curvature of the road. Dialling in alignment to counter that would be exactly as much wear as turning slightly to counter the curvature of the road because you're literally just baking that into the suspension. (more or less, someone pls correct me). At this point you need to post a vid, because every time you make a post Mr Silviaz, you get one step closer to explaining what is going on and 0.9 steps in another tangientally confusing area that requires much more clarification.

What I meant by misaligned, is that if you are PHYSICALLY holding the wheel straight, and the car is veering off to nowhere, then it's possible it can be wrong. Imagine a scenario where the wheels were perfectly straight and aligned normally with regards to the steering wheel. Then you take the steering wheel off, and replace it incorrectly, leaving it on an angle. Then you go for a drive and attempt to force the steering wheel straight. I agree with Dose given what he said at the time in the context he posted it in the other thread. The wheel itself or where it is pointing doesn't really matter. It's where the splines are pointing that actually matters. The wheel just slips ontop and allows you to manipulate said splines in the steering rack. Technically having it point in the correct direction is aesthetics only, but if you are forcing it to be straight when it isn't on square then you're effectively driving a certain amount left/right.

I mean there's a few things it can be. 1) The steering wheel is misaligned 2) The steering RACK is misaligned (near impossible to have broken this unless you pulled the steering rack apart) 3) Alignment is f**ky If your alignment is perfect your car will pull left due to slope on the road. All roads slope away from the crown. Sometimes alignment shops will want to not run totally neutral toe/alignments due to this because they will tell you, well, exactly what the alignment shop told you.

This may sound overly dumb, but ask this question to your local aircon place that deals with things like aftermarket aircon or hotrods etc. When I asked this question they seemed to have a ton of knowledge and/or knew many generic condensers that they could make bracketry to make the space. I think the one they sourced for my LS conversion was like $180 or some very small part of the rather expensive endeavour.

I honestly don't remember, but it was as simple as lining it all up. It's possible the wheel and clock spring do intertwine, or the clock spring itself doesn't have splines on it so it doesn't matter as it just slips over it and it's the wheel splines that matter. I just recall it being simple and easy and you're overthinking it

I had read this too, but I cannot touch the motor of my partner's honda (which is for sale now, RIP). I did read stories of turning VTEC on earlier, higher rev limit and better everything everywhere. Dort Dort!

From memory the wheel doesn't sit on the clockspring directly, so you can just remove the wheel, turn it however many angles it's off then put it on the spline again. I know this as I too have put it on one spline out before and gone "Ah everything works, the wheel is just not straight now"

Ye, when people pressure test the system they test the system (itself, only) by capping the pipe at where your TB is and pressurizing it from Turbo outlet pipe to TB. Or at least I would, because what you're realistically trying to test is your intercooler piping.

I don't think the 7064 would be _that_ bad. The 2871 and GTX3071 were actually pretty decent performers (at least on E85) and some smart heads would pick the GTX3071 over the GTX3076. So having a ... "GTX3270" is not the end of the world. Probably. Given it's a EFR it'll likely be great. Just maybe (and you've implied you wouldn't be) don't be upset if it makes 299.9kw when a GTX3076 may make 320 on 98. It just reminds me of highflow days, but those were .63's not .92's and as mentioned, the exhaust side of the turbo is relatively large compared to the comp size. Just also remember a lot of results are on E85 which makes a huge difference. I'm making the assumption this is all on 98.

Yea... You've changed everything else and gone above and beyond here, so it's """""safe""""" to say this is in somewhere you haven't touched. The manifold _is_ something you have touched and changed. It's unlikely you have some massive boost leak somewhere that you somehow missed while changing every single component that could potentially leak, but if that was the case your turbo speed would be higher than expected for 18psi. Cams can do weird shit, and if you're confident you've covered everything external to the motor it's time to look inside. To be so down on power is so odd that there'd be no other problems it's causing. Unless the 7064 is a dog on 98/mismatched, it's not a commonly run turbo.... I remember a 7163 running out of puff/nosing over at high ranges on a SR20, though that was due to Poncams running around. I don't wanna be 'that guy' but a 3076 is also a bigger turbo, compressor size, though the 7064 has a larger turbine wheel. Point being the 3076 may not be the most likely thing to match it against. Someone point @Lithium here. ....maybe it just needs much more boost to get the wheel speeds up there and the curve won't so much flatline as just nose over as one might**** expect. This would be after verifying "omg the cams are actually okay, wtf is goin on here" It reminds me of highflow days and IWG days. Something could be running out of puff here at high RPM on a 2.5. That thing could be the exhaust cam as previously mentioned though

I don't know. I don't think anyone would know. I would however expect that if you remove the clock spring or unplug the airbag at any time, for any reason, you would need to reset the light upon plugging it all back in again.

I think there's some silliness going on with THE_BEST option being lauded as the only option, and second, third, fourth best options which may be 5% worse being regarded as utter junk. Logically though, if you have a stock GTR, and you want to update it's forced induction system, you have an option of purchasing one turbo and a manifold, or two turbos and a manifold, or two turbos on the stock manifold(s). If you're gonna buy two, one would hope that you'd get any benefit at all out of spending double the money, but uh, that's not what happens. I hated that Andrew Hawkins video purely because he uses a single/double combination from completely different generations of turbo and makes conclusive decisions based on that. He's gotten a lot better since then in his objectivity to be honest. Would love to see what would have happened if it was a GTX3582 and Twinscroll that he used vs two Borg Warner EFR's and a fullrace manifold making the same target power at same target boost, you know, like some adherence to the scientific method when doing things. But would probably still find the same, spending much more money for potentially no benefit at all is why people would be against it. The turbo is the only thing on these cars that produces power, so everyone gets a bee in their bonnet when people spend tons on a motor build then buy a cheap garbage turbo. THAT SAID; There's not enough variation in turbo tech in the world to explain why someone makes 450hp (American horsepower or otherwise) on 19psi with twins, and someone else makes 210hp on 19psi with twins. There's very obviously something missing going wrong/unexplained/dyno is configured wrong and car actually makes 380hp or something :p

Series 2 is Aug 2000 onwards. You'd know if you have one, cause a lot of stupid shit is mysteriously different (like the airbag reset procedure!) Having it off for longer wont matter. Lets be real; if the car has been driving around with the airbag light 'on' that circuit is already broken and the airbag is already 'off'. The procedure will work if you have all the parts and wires lined up right. Sadly I've removed and replaced and swapped a clock spring a couple times now. Once it's all apart it's quite noticeable how simple it is to put together/take apart.

Just keep in mind if you have a R34 Series 2, the airbag reset procedure is actually that of the V35, not the R34 as described in the R34 Workshop manual. Just cause Nissan things.

You should totally buy my 460 and/or 525 and do whatever Duncan has figured out so it doesn't melt (or you may consider rewiring it to run at 14V, which is one of the most oldschooly mods in all of SAU, right up there with running 7psi all the time :D)