Kinkstaah

I was under the impression that the 350Z diff was 'easy' (ish) I had planned to get a Quaife center in one if/when my current R34 helical gives up the ghost. How much pain am I actually in for trying to do this?

I mean with all the above taken into account, there's definitely some wisdom in just driving the fking thing, and a 250KW RB will not be in any danger with its low timing, low boost, and not making peak power at 7500rpm as you slam into the limiter. Conservative just means you're burning the candle more slowly after all, that has its own happy merits too.

6000rpm is weird. Usually the cutover point is half that. 3500. Could it be soft timing? I do not know. The way forward is gonna be check how those cams are degreed. Then get a second opinion/second tuner. The second opinion/second tuner could also be somebody who has installed RB cams before. They are stock cams, right? Of course, time poor and money poor does skew things.

I'm with Lithium on this one. What I'd actually love to see: a) More timing. Like 5 degrees+++ everywhere more timing. The old adage was "20 degrees at 20psi". You're nowhere near it. This is NOT a licence to just throw 5 degrees in and send it lol. b) An overlay of two runs, one with VCT off the entire run, and one with VCT on the entire run. This is usually how people decide the switching point. I know you said it was done at the tuner, but seeing those graphs would be very interesting. If one of the results from b) looks really strange, or the VCT switch over point is strange (like 6000+ rpm? or at 1000 rpm?) then that would be where you start looking as to how your cams have been physically set up.

That looks great, and I'm envious of your front bar fitment after having 'fun' with mine right now. I still don't understand the maths, because the new rear should poke 20mm further out than the new fronts do, but unless the rear got flared out 20mm more than the fronts did.. or you made a typo. Does look great though!

I mean, I hate to be that guy (cause I'll be poking the bear of further commentary) But you won't need additional mysterious arms for the car to not VEER left. I have stock arms. The car does not veer anywhere and toe is absolutely adjustable, as is camber (with an adjustable bush). If you have some scenario where the car is low as f*** then you may need aftermarket arms to dial camber OUT, but camber in and of itself does not make the car veer anywhere. Toe does. And toe is adjustable from the factory. Having 0 toe will result in the car going SLIGHTLY to the left on most roads due to the angle. It won't 'veer' and it won't make your tyres wear any faster, as they are following the curvature of the road. Dialling in alignment to counter that would be exactly as much wear as turning slightly to counter the curvature of the road because you're literally just baking that into the suspension. (more or less, someone pls correct me). At this point you need to post a vid, because every time you make a post Mr Silviaz, you get one step closer to explaining what is going on and 0.9 steps in another tangientally confusing area that requires much more clarification.

What I meant by misaligned, is that if you are PHYSICALLY holding the wheel straight, and the car is veering off to nowhere, then it's possible it can be wrong. Imagine a scenario where the wheels were perfectly straight and aligned normally with regards to the steering wheel. Then you take the steering wheel off, and replace it incorrectly, leaving it on an angle. Then you go for a drive and attempt to force the steering wheel straight. I agree with Dose given what he said at the time in the context he posted it in the other thread. The wheel itself or where it is pointing doesn't really matter. It's where the splines are pointing that actually matters. The wheel just slips ontop and allows you to manipulate said splines in the steering rack. Technically having it point in the correct direction is aesthetics only, but if you are forcing it to be straight when it isn't on square then you're effectively driving a certain amount left/right.

I mean there's a few things it can be. 1) The steering wheel is misaligned 2) The steering RACK is misaligned (near impossible to have broken this unless you pulled the steering rack apart) 3) Alignment is f**ky If your alignment is perfect your car will pull left due to slope on the road. All roads slope away from the crown. Sometimes alignment shops will want to not run totally neutral toe/alignments due to this because they will tell you, well, exactly what the alignment shop told you.

This may sound overly dumb, but ask this question to your local aircon place that deals with things like aftermarket aircon or hotrods etc. When I asked this question they seemed to have a ton of knowledge and/or knew many generic condensers that they could make bracketry to make the space. I think the one they sourced for my LS conversion was like $180 or some very small part of the rather expensive endeavour.

I honestly don't remember, but it was as simple as lining it all up. It's possible the wheel and clock spring do intertwine, or the clock spring itself doesn't have splines on it so it doesn't matter as it just slips over it and it's the wheel splines that matter. I just recall it being simple and easy and you're overthinking it

I had read this too, but I cannot touch the motor of my partner's honda (which is for sale now, RIP). I did read stories of turning VTEC on earlier, higher rev limit and better everything everywhere. Dort Dort!

From memory the wheel doesn't sit on the clockspring directly, so you can just remove the wheel, turn it however many angles it's off then put it on the spline again. I know this as I too have put it on one spline out before and gone "Ah everything works, the wheel is just not straight now"

Ye, when people pressure test the system they test the system (itself, only) by capping the pipe at where your TB is and pressurizing it from Turbo outlet pipe to TB. Or at least I would, because what you're realistically trying to test is your intercooler piping.

I don't think the 7064 would be _that_ bad. The 2871 and GTX3071 were actually pretty decent performers (at least on E85) and some smart heads would pick the GTX3071 over the GTX3076. So having a ... "GTX3270" is not the end of the world. Probably. Given it's a EFR it'll likely be great. Just maybe (and you've implied you wouldn't be) don't be upset if it makes 299.9kw when a GTX3076 may make 320 on 98. It just reminds me of highflow days, but those were .63's not .92's and as mentioned, the exhaust side of the turbo is relatively large compared to the comp size. Just also remember a lot of results are on E85 which makes a huge difference. I'm making the assumption this is all on 98.

Yea... You've changed everything else and gone above and beyond here, so it's """""safe""""" to say this is in somewhere you haven't touched. The manifold _is_ something you have touched and changed. It's unlikely you have some massive boost leak somewhere that you somehow missed while changing every single component that could potentially leak, but if that was the case your turbo speed would be higher than expected for 18psi. Cams can do weird shit, and if you're confident you've covered everything external to the motor it's time to look inside. To be so down on power is so odd that there'd be no other problems it's causing. Unless the 7064 is a dog on 98/mismatched, it's not a commonly run turbo.... I remember a 7163 running out of puff/nosing over at high ranges on a SR20, though that was due to Poncams running around. I don't wanna be 'that guy' but a 3076 is also a bigger turbo, compressor size, though the 7064 has a larger turbine wheel. Point being the 3076 may not be the most likely thing to match it against. Someone point @Lithium here. ....maybe it just needs much more boost to get the wheel speeds up there and the curve won't so much flatline as just nose over as one might**** expect. This would be after verifying "omg the cams are actually okay, wtf is goin on here" It reminds me of highflow days and IWG days. Something could be running out of puff here at high RPM on a 2.5. That thing could be the exhaust cam as previously mentioned though

I don't know. I don't think anyone would know. I would however expect that if you remove the clock spring or unplug the airbag at any time, for any reason, you would need to reset the light upon plugging it all back in again.

I think there's some silliness going on with THE_BEST option being lauded as the only option, and second, third, fourth best options which may be 5% worse being regarded as utter junk. Logically though, if you have a stock GTR, and you want to update it's forced induction system, you have an option of purchasing one turbo and a manifold, or two turbos and a manifold, or two turbos on the stock manifold(s). If you're gonna buy two, one would hope that you'd get any benefit at all out of spending double the money, but uh, that's not what happens. I hated that Andrew Hawkins video purely because he uses a single/double combination from completely different generations of turbo and makes conclusive decisions based on that. He's gotten a lot better since then in his objectivity to be honest. Would love to see what would have happened if it was a GTX3582 and Twinscroll that he used vs two Borg Warner EFR's and a fullrace manifold making the same target power at same target boost, you know, like some adherence to the scientific method when doing things. But would probably still find the same, spending much more money for potentially no benefit at all is why people would be against it. The turbo is the only thing on these cars that produces power, so everyone gets a bee in their bonnet when people spend tons on a motor build then buy a cheap garbage turbo. THAT SAID; There's not enough variation in turbo tech in the world to explain why someone makes 450hp (American horsepower or otherwise) on 19psi with twins, and someone else makes 210hp on 19psi with twins. There's very obviously something missing going wrong/unexplained/dyno is configured wrong and car actually makes 380hp or something :p

Series 2 is Aug 2000 onwards. You'd know if you have one, cause a lot of stupid shit is mysteriously different (like the airbag reset procedure!) Having it off for longer wont matter. Lets be real; if the car has been driving around with the airbag light 'on' that circuit is already broken and the airbag is already 'off'. The procedure will work if you have all the parts and wires lined up right. Sadly I've removed and replaced and swapped a clock spring a couple times now. Once it's all apart it's quite noticeable how simple it is to put together/take apart.

Just keep in mind if you have a R34 Series 2, the airbag reset procedure is actually that of the V35, not the R34 as described in the R34 Workshop manual. Just cause Nissan things.

You should totally buy my 460 and/or 525 and do whatever Duncan has figured out so it doesn't melt (or you may consider rewiring it to run at 14V, which is one of the most oldschooly mods in all of SAU, right up there with running 7psi all the time :D)

Cluster is a direct plug and play/no issues swapping kind of thing. It will physically work identically other than the fact it'll have (unlit) PNDL etc selectors in it. And beep in reverse! It's been many years but I actually can't recall if you need to change a speed sensor. I want to say there's only a few wires that need fenagling and my brain does recall messing with a speed sensor, so I can't imagine a reason why I'd remember that unless I had to do it in the past! There's other transmission options than the R34/RB Transmission in 2023, but given there's a N/A engine behind it it's probably best to keep it simple, and not have issues with complexity that can come with a 370z box, or a T56 gearbox or a ZF8 or something lol. After years of pain and f**k arounds if you want a guaranteed solution that is going to outlast the N/A motor then the tried and true method is probably worth paying current_rates for.

I think he's referring to the cap for the reservoir itself. Motive are pretty decent, but if the cap size is the same across all Nissans then the answer would be yes. If it's different, measure and Motive will likely say "Ah yes our XYZ cap is blah diameter"

I am now the owner of 5x R34/S15 fuel plugs, two from EFISolutions and 3x from Trimas. The Trimas ones come pre-terminated and the pins are locked in, I had some issues building the others and they somewhat want to pop out. That said, they were still pretty secure, the DW300 went in perfectly, and I can even use that bulkhead I had always kept to actually put over the top of the fuel hat. And the car runs, the fuel pressure gauge doesn't leak, and all of that is swell. Went to Body Shop, dropped off everything, and I do mean everything: _POV: your car looks awful so you replace every panel_ All in all very positive, as well as things always are at the start of any major work when dropping a car off. Will see how it goes I suppose!

I know you're in Surname, so parts availability could be pretty fkin weird. If it were me I would be trying to get the correct engine ECU/TCM (integrated or otherwise) for the engine itself. There's not always a lot of wriggle room for when it doesn't work, as it'll just flat out not work. That said what you have is pretty close, a RB25NEO with a Stagea ECU (... gtt?) but there's still some pretty big differences between the turbo stag motor and the RB25NEO Non turbo. So it'll either be great or really damn annoying depending on how well you study diagrams and how well Nissan lego decides to fit together in the real world.

Right, so that is the same (or very similar, I'm not sure how similar) to the GTT ECU. I only looked at this for 15 minutes about a decade ago, but from what I remember, all of the sensors/wires/pins for the R34 N/A TCM existed on the R34 GTT main ECU. Basically the only difference between the GTT auto and GTT manual ECU was the addition of those pins, which perfectly mapped to the TCU's pins in the NA car. This was followed by a lot of me screaming why a workshop could not have figured this out in the 3 years they had previously had the car. It's possible there's some other complication.. In my example I had a standalone transmission ECU, which I wired into following the diagrams and everything worked fine. I found other posts that people had wired the NA Autobox into the GTT ECU without issue, and after looking at the diagrams I understood why there was no obvious writeup for it. I ASSUME.