Kinkstaah

Those would be the infamous -5 Turbos. They're okay, 20psi on them on 93/98 is right on par with what everyone else can sort of flow for those, irrespective of what the output on the dyno shows. There's probably plenty of results in the RB26 thread with -5's and various levels of mods on petrol/gas to sort of compare it to. They aren't as popular a choice now, and kinda weren't then as they're large, oldschool things, and twins never got the same kind of RND development that singles got which is what Dose is alluding to by telling you to put something modern on. Just call it period correct and enjoy the rest of the car not blowing itself to pieces (which can, and will happen once you really get obsessed with power numbers).

What turbos are on it? 356 American KW is possibly the best place to be if you want to use the car. Close the internet and hit up a twisty road and ignore all other opinions and see whether you have fun driving the car around.

Well yeah - I know the tyres quoted above are technically road legal, but nobody shows up to a hill run or a cruise on them, because they burn too quick and they GENERALLY exist as the "track only tyre" for an otherwise road/track hybrid car. I suppose they could fit the bill to drive *to* the track on them instead of changing tyres there on the day. I suppose it makes sense when it comes to slicks. Otherwise you'd just drive to the track and change tyres. And if you're gonna do that I don't know why nobody picks up a slick for those uses, even for regular road car track days/HPDE use non-competition but fun stuff. I just always find it a bit funny that people will say "but street car bro on street tyres" even if said street tyres would never really be driven on the street. May as well have a slick and just enjoy the full potential on the track. *pending suspension or grip related roll overs or god knows what which may/may not apply. Nankang CRS (v2) will be my choice too in some faraway era where my car exists and goes to a track again, by which time all the options may have been updated :p. Seem to be on par with the A052 everywhere when tested back to back except half the price, and wear slower. Goes to show how fast tyre tech has come, the newest product generally is the bestererest as it comes out.

Based on this comment I went googling. A052's in the sizes I want are certainly not cheap, but I couldn't find anything in the V70A anywhere. How much do they run/where do they get sourced from? From what I know (nothing but internet searches and reviews etc) the R888 has pretty much fallen off from anyone's actual use, and the AO52 is the king of "road legal" rubber. Nobody is driving around on their daily for Z221, AO050, DZ03G. At that point, for purely track only tyres - Why not buy actual slicks? Why does nobody actually do that anyway?

I have one of these! It is absolutely useless. It provides not nearly enough force on the bolt, it just slips over anything that is not finger tight. And if it's finger tight, you can use your fingers.

You have to take photos of the car in Victoria with a timestamp. So if you have big aftermarket turbo in your engine bay, your car is simply not getting a RWC and you'll be doing a lot of returning to stock, and re-modding after about 90 days (because cars that have had a RWC can be audited after the fact). The law I'm kinda ambivalent about. I can see the logic and the writing on the wall, Cobb etc would be well known for selling to 'wink wink off the street usage' but in the real world everyone knows what they do and where they end up. It'd be like someone selling guns in Australia but "only to people who have a proper licence" but selling them outside of Bunnings instead of sausages to anybody. Like RWC's, and VASS's and EPA, this is enforcement of the actual existing rules. I haven't looked into it but there (should) be a way for people to legally pass their tuned car to be within the rules if they can prove they pass emissions laws that are applicable. If there's not then that's another story.

It's not "interpreted as" it literally is no more than 1 mod to the intake system. The turbo is considered something that affects emissions. So this has 0.0% chance of passing it's current state. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but this would absolutely need thousands to get on the road. Perhaps the seller still has the stock bits, but god knows what state the OEM wiring is to run the ECU, whether an OEM cluster is still available, etc. Generally speaking, RWC testers in Victoria are more conservative than the rules actually are to boot, so even if the car will pass, they won't even want to look at it, nor consult the actual roadworthiness requirements. They will simply throw it in the too hard basket with a flavor of arrogance and move onto the next job, even if the mods you have meet the requirements of VSI14.

I was 100% sure this would sell in seconds someone even remotely interested in it would sell. Probably way underpriced. Will you change your username to "The Hairdresser" now?

I agree with you, but pretty much _any car ever made_ without some splitters, nicer kit, wing, wheels, low is the difference between "ew" and "the nicest car you've ever seen". Applies to any Skyline too :p

I mean he could post them to imgur or the like and create a link. But yeah, spam bots absolutely will post pictures in their first posts.

I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.

I leant out the window recently and took a picture of this new WRX. It looked real damn fine in person. It's faster around a track (stock) than a (stock) GR Yaris. It's much more practical despite being heavier. It's significantly cheaper. This gen tunes really well, much better than others. .... I think they're probably a lot better than people expect.

Dye *should* work on the _cloth_ but not on the hard vinyl. That said, it's a mixture of both of these things. You probably have a sedan, and want a coupe as the coupe got all the black interior and the sedan is silver. I was planning on just taking the lot to a trimmer as you've noticed it's a mix of cloth, hard plastic, and bits of metal that need to change colour so I wager you will need all sorts of different, complimentary skills to actually make it work.

It's something we all have to consider as time marches on. Also consider lifted rally MX5 conversion at that point.

So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?

I get into huffs with people when I suggest the MX5 looks so much better as a coupe than it does as convertible. Pretty sure I don't prefer the convertible version of anything. Good job on the hardtop! The next buyer will appreciate.

Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.

He made that comment in my thread - In my case the vents ARE to lower engine heat, when the car is not moving, which is the only scenario I have heat problems with the aircon on, sitting in traffic, on 40C+ days. I can't imagine a scenario that this NC needs any at this point in time. I do not know if it will actually make my cooling when the car is MOVING worse, and I sincerely hope that won't be the case. If it does, well, um, f**k.

I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well

Did you need anything else you've already done? If you had it before... and liked the changes after, then supposedly it'd be more of the same. The idea about most suspension arms is to tune geometry that the OEM arms max out at/can't handle because they weren't designed to have the car setup in such a way that 'looks good'.

Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in

Because you're effectively rushing the shift and forcing it to go in - with greater leverage against parts that don't _want_ to go together. Short shift = forcing the gear in harder. Also Redline Heavy Shockproof actively says not to use it in anything with Synchros. Well, it says "not recommended" which is basically as far as anyone will ever say in a product statement to "Do not use" Generally the Redline makes the gearbox feel great... until it fails faster. https://www.redlineoil.com/heavy-shockproof

99.9% of them are viscous diffs. The 0.01% are helicals. They were only option-able in the series 2, as well. I have redline heavy shockproof in my helical. It seems... fine? I don't think anyone is ever going to know until something really breaks and at that point I'm not sure anyone will blame the oil. I just chose it because it's extremely heavy duty and my car will see not-road-legal duty for it. I've also had sadness with various diff oils in the past sweating out everywhere and/or other 'fun' things, with clutch diffs. Given you have a 1.5 way on the shelf, I'd not even bother with the diff in the car and just get to tinkering with it. I would spend the $90 on oil toward the labor of someone else putting the diff in if time poor even lol.

You may want to list it up for a little higher - This price is much lower than you may realize. Here you're pretty much selling to people who most likely already have these things on their own rigs. S chassis people eat this stuff up like you'd not believe.

As someone who has had a car sitting for a year... would you change *that* oil? It's still sitting in a container, right? If oil is fine in a shelf, is it not fine in a sump? I assume this is something specific to the oil being *unused* (i.e on shelf)