Kinkstaah

The idea was just to get the gauge going in a simple fashion. Then see if a cooler is needed, I have a feeling oil temp won't be the first thing to get into the "danger will robinson" category on the track. My water temp didn't see above 70 doing a drift day, so who knows what oil temp is, or not. I went to check, and found my standard oil/water/heat/exchanger is a N/A one, which has a welch plug instead of a bung for a sensor. fffffuuu So now I can choose T piece (inaccurate, cheap), sandwich plate (expensive, accurate), or replace the heat exchanger with the correct unit. (cheap, messy, accurate) Waaah.

a genuine tragedy

What about the original suggestion in the thread? By using the factory position my means of a small adaptor, seemed simple and easy as well. Easier, even. Or is it much the same as using a T piece? I opted to simply get that small adaptor and re-use a factory sensor location that's currently doing nothing. Just to make use of a gauge that was pre-installed when I picked up the car. (in my case I don't suspect oil temp to be the first 'point of failure' in terms of things getting too hot).

Looks like here -> http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438407-fitting-an-oil-temp-sensor-without-sandwich-plate/ Which I've read many times, but only now actually seem to understand it that its been done a couple ways. One was the way I mentioned before which supposedly is 2-3 seconds lag which aint so bad. Also in that thread is a link to an adaptor for the factory oil temp sensor plug, which seems like as good/better idea, for the same cost of a T piece anyway. At least it's in the location a Nissan Engineer decided was the best place to get oil temp from. Just incase googlers end up here ;-)

I am hijacking this because, well, I have a oil temp related gauge query. I have to replace the stock oil pressure sender which screws into the block. I have an oil temp gauge not connected to anything. I want to use a brass t piece between the block and the factory oil pressure sensor, and put a oil TEMPERATURE sender into this T piece, and wire the gauge to that. Is this a terrible plan, or is a simple 'fix' by means of a small adapter while I am down there going to literally ruin everything?

Glad to see it's not just confusing me . Note: Before the engine was rebuilt the same spec turbo did this at 22-25-29 style PSI (per gear). The guys doing the head stated the previous job was shit and theirs would flow way better. Picked up a fair whack of response, and well, more powers for way less boost. It may just be that they're right, and the thing is just too small/can't create resistance to flow in the head. I imagine if you put a GTX3076 on a LS1, it would not create 30psi no matter what you do with it. My main worry is what boost I should set the gate to, to avoid overspinning and frying the thing. I guess whatever boost level makes the power the turbo is rated at? (for lack of any other idea)

Mind you, the gears in an auto are very long. 2nd revs out to 135ish kmh. (1st is about 68). The gate will open.. if I set it to anything under 17psi in 1st, and anything UNDER 20 in 2nd. It will stay open at 22 in 3rd. Previously, on the same turbo, and same gearbox, I would make about 18 in first.. ~25 in 2nd, and ~29 in 3rd. 3rd being the 1:1 gear. New engine is clearly making more flow. Made the same power with 10psi less boost/restriction in the inlet manifold. But it has the side effect of the thing just not making boost. It is going on the dyno next week. I'll get some pulls done in 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc and see if the behaviour happens. Given I am going back to try and run more than 22psi it may become more apparent as to what is going on. I am assuming I'm maxxing out the turbo at this stage, because considering I have bought a brand new unit, and a brand new engine, and I have no boost leaks... it is either 'normal' or what else can it possibly be?

hehe On a serious note:

Well I was mainly talking to see if this is a common thing, if guys running 40PSI on a 7676 get boost in first gear. Guys with -5's and 450RWKW and stuff. But it's turned into Greg's weird setup. For specifics on my setup, as above, it is a 2.8 BC kit, on a Neo with a (rather well, apparently) flowed head. Currently it makes 380rwkw (407 when accounting for converter slip) at 21.5 PSI. The turbo is a GTX3076R, with a .82 rear housing. The boost CURVE is very similar in all gears. However, first gets about 17psi. Second just touches 20..21 (gate flutters oopen a tiny bit). 3rd and onward the gate is always open. The actual TIME to rev out first and 2nd gear is over.. very quickly. Enough that "there is not enough load" to build the boost seems possible. MAP pressure will jump between gears, if you shift say, at 10psi, shifting to the next gear puts you instantly at 13psi, etc. It behaves in the sense that you'd think it's a boost leak. However power is on par with maxing out the turbo. Hence me looking for more people with a lot of boost in a low gear, to see if it builds or not.

The issues may not be connected, but.. was really trying to find out.. If max boost increases as you shift gears to a more 'loady' gear. Specifically if you only make X boost in a setup where ordinarily, you'd be free-boosting.. where X increases (closer to gate opening) as you shift up into more loady gears.

Yes, I have this option with the Haltech too. The problem is, if I wanted 20psi in first, and second, I can't. I kind of want more boost. If I taper the boost down with a boost trim, the gate will open fine. But what about guys running 50psi? Do they get all of that 50 in first as well? I am sure that if someone set their EWG to hold 100PSI they may only get .. 50 psi. Or if they put the same turbo on a 8.2L V10, they may only make 10psi, but the turbo is spinning at the same rate. Just trying to find out if this 'is a thing' The turbo wasn't blown. It was making power, even though the compressor wheel looked like this: That's quite bad. I'd rather that not happen again, lol.

I can see how that could work, GTSBoy, with a HUGE turbo, you may not actually spin it enough to make pressure. However, mine isn't that scenario, in fact, it's the opposite. I have a small turbo, on an engine which is (maybe?) happy to flow it quite a bit. I'm actually concerned I'm maxxing the turbo out, so the engine is ingesting air so happily that the turbo can't flow enough to actually build up pressure with the wastegate completely shut, that the engine is happy to rev and redline without boost pressure 'backing up' so to speak. This effect is lesser with each gear as obviously it revs out slower. Cause it certainly is flowing air. I realise this scenario is ALSO 'possible', but don't know if anyone else has experienced it. Given my last turbo exploded in quick time I'd rather not repeat the scenario, if this is just dumb luck or something else, was curious to see if people see this kind of behaviour. For reference, I make about 18psi in 1st gear from about 3500 rpm to 7000 rpm. If I shift, in the middle of this, 2nd will have boost at about 20psi. 3rd will have 22+ (wastegate is set to 20), but it will pin the wastegate open, whereas 2nd flutters with it briefly, and 1st never opens it. In the past (at 30psi) nothing would open it, but you could see boost hit at 20ish, 25ish, and 29ish respectively. It was easy to see the boost pressure jump as soon as the shift happens. (dat auto life). The only other example I can think of is something like a V8 (like the chequered tuning car) which is running 2x Hypergear turbos at 3.5 PSI in a LS1 V8. Obviously 3psi in that car is not 3psi in a RB25. So if you have a wastegete set to 5psi, it'd NEVER open, but its maxxing the turbos out, and flowing air, and 'working correctly'. But it doesn't seem like its healthy long term to simply freeboost a turbo because the engine can ingest it. You'd think thatd be a sign of a wildly undersized turbo for the application and can't be a good setup.

There's also an option to "automatically remove once downloaded" but yes, for a millisecond of time, you'd have the file. However, there's definitely a global trend about people chased for this kind of thing being seeders, long time, multiple files, essentially acting as distributors for others to obtain files. Maybe it's the most low hanging fruit for legislators to go after, though. Then again it gets mired down. What if you just share out the DVD that's sitting in your DVD player that you legally purchased? "oops it was taken without my knowledge, those tricky pirates!111"

That's the thing, the wastegate in my application is absolutely sealed shut until the 1:1 gear. Freeboosting does NOT get the MAP pressure up to the point where the wastegate would open. Hence me asking for high boost people. Obviously in a stock application when you're only building 5psi, it'll do so. There's no boost leaks. The wastegate is working properly. The car makes power in the range you'd expect to be maxxing out the turbo. I just wanted to know if I was the only one who noticed this kind of behaviour..

I have this kit (essentially, but its on a Neo) I use a GTX3076R (.82ar) It's very responsive. It makes about 407kw for a manual on E85. (but at 21psi, may be reachable on 98) I would say a better fit is probably a GTX3582, but of course it depends on the application of the car, supporting mods, and all that jazz. If I had the balls and didn't live in Victoria, I'd probably use a Precision 6466 if I didn't have to consider the local arm of the law.

It may, or may not though. Seeders, in general would have 100% of the file, and are sharing 100% of the file, and you could arguably identify and say that you're illegally providing/distributing the file for others, once you have 100% of an item. It makes it a bit easier to go after seeders, legally, due to that.

Can confirm, Scotty made a housing for a sensor for me that sits in the return line. Works a treat.

Hi all I got an answer to this in another thread, but because I am unsure I'm just going to ask again. I recently toasted a turbo. Pretty bad. I figured a nearly toasted turbo could explain my boost. But now I have a new one, on a new engine, and very similar behaviour. I'm hoping it's not just me. In any case: For those of you who run a lot of boost (30psi region...) How much do you make in 1st? How about 2nd? 3rd? 4th? 5th? 6th if you have a R34 GTR and have security guards Do you see an instant boost increase after you shift? How much of this is load based? For people who make 30psi on the dyno in 4th, how much do you get while redlining 1st? 30? 17? 22? Varies? I know that IN THEORY you get less resistance in 1st, so you will make less boost. You make none in neutral. You'd make more in 5th. Flow doesn't mean pressure. I get all of those concepts. You could say a super flowing head is going to max out a turbo at 20psi, while a stock head may max a turbo out at 35psi. But I want to see numbers. Anyone?

It is also easier to learn when you have an original base map that is setup right and you make small changes and tweaks etc to get your self comfortable with what setting does what and how the engine behaves. Just keep in mind any real 'power' tuning needs access to knock ears and a dyno.

Leroy should just buy my gearbox so I can go manual

But... Its two 30 amp fuses....

If I could stop melting fuel pump fuses that'd be great /issuesonlygreghas

Interesting points, here is a set of suspension settings I was given (knowing very little about alignment, I've used them) Are they ... good? Bad? Horrible? Front Camber = -1mm to -1.5mm Castor = +7 deg Front toe = 0 / Zero Rear Camber = -0.75mm to -1mm Toe = -2mm in on both sides Noone ever questioned these settings (incl the suspension shop I provided them to) Still keen to hear if they're good/bad/indifferent/you'll get 1000kms out of a set of tyres on them, etc

My engine is working, thus according to the laws of relativity, luck can never be gained or lost, only redistributed.

Traction Tyres in Rowville. x111111111ty. Have read that Tyrepower North Melbourne are also good. That'd satisfy the "inner Melbourne" part of your post