Kinkstaah

I use this argument a lot with people (because I mean, arguing is fun) whenever people say THE SYSTEM DOESNT WORK ITS ALL f**kED GIVE UP THE END IS NIGH and so on Especially re: America "THE BIBLE THUMPERS ARE DOOMING THE WORLD" types. To me, politicians are, and have always been, and always will be... tools of the people. Like they're supposed to be. But in reality, they're bending their appearance, viewpoints, etc in order to obtain votes, votes which are essentially a popularity contest. I fully reckon that social change will happen no matter who is in government. I believe exactly 0% of politicians in the USA thought that Gay Marriage was a great idea and pushed it on their own before the public expressed demand for it. See also: Decriminalization of Marijuana These are public opinions that have manifested and swayed politicians to create/change policy whether the parties involved want to, or not. Social change will always do this, no matter who is in power. So when I explain this is why I voted liberal, to the most die hard labor hipster beard, tree hugging, plant eating, soy drinking leftist free love psycho, they lose their minds. And like, that's pretty fun. Let someone numbers minded handle the numbers, the social side will find its way through anyway.

I did also think it's strange people a) Hate how politicians 'act like politicians' b) Hate if politicians act like 'Joe Q. Citizen' Like, what is it?

I use the above excuse for doing maybe 10 tanks of fuel in a week of driving. 'just flushing out the system'

The big question would be "What injectors do you have?" Followed closely by: a) Phew, I don't have those injectors b) Oh shit, I should clean my injectors

There's no way the blitz cooler puts a hard limit of 250rwkw, no matter what the calculations say though. Designing turbos around intercooler efficiency seems a little weird when surely it can't be the problem. No, my setup isn't the same as Stao's, but the setup from the turbine outlet to the throttle body IS the same (stock piping, too). And if I can get 400rwkw at 21psi on a GTX3076.... the intercooler cannot be the issue man.

I can't actually post up the dyno graph because it kills Trent's dyno when trying to do a proper pull. I'll have to try it on a roller dyno But I would like to confirm, cause if someone on the forums said they made 408kw (in a manual) at 21 psi (the dyno's gauge) on a GTX3076, with 225rwkw at 3000rpm you would quite rightly think u f**kin w0t m8? And laugh them off the forums. (yes I ran the engine in beforehand.. my life is empty and I can afford to do 1300run in kms during the week)

Rebuilt engine. +5kw, 500rpm earlier response... 10 degrees less timing... and 10 PSI less boost. I should immediately put car up for sale But I won't, because it would feel wrong for anyone else to break it

Never gone portrait but tbh I often use windows.. as... windows. Full screening everything is kind of "too much" on a big screen. Can see why Portrait setups could work but then, gaming

I made 375rwkw (400 in a manual due to trans slip) with the same cooler on the same dyno in the same model car. That's not to say there's no pressure loss, but as mentioned, are all FMIC's like that?

This is all the workshop manual has to say about it... I imagine it should be plugged...somewhere. From what I have seen in the manual the temp sensor and pressure sensor are infact different sensors (and plugs?) Sticking the head in there is the plan.. I have to anyway as there's a boost leak (of course there's a boost leak...) but helpful to know if anyone knows what plug goes where.

Nah man that was the coolant sensor - This has been fixed because the VCT plug and the Coolant sensor plug are interchangeable in the R34 (who knew!). That has since been sorted. This worked after reshelling, this is the oil pressure lamp. I've found where it should be with the workshop manual, but it doesn't mention how it's supposed to be plugged in/wired to the gauge itself. I assume there's a plug that plugs into the stock sensor somehow. The R34 (NA and GTT) have a functional oil pressure guage, not the old R33/32 (GTR/GTST) etc one that is slow and crap and useless. The R34 one actually responds instantly. It just mentions to test it with the "3.4W test lamp" and it'll read differently to it being shorted out. Given my guage reads EXACTLY where the "3.4W test lamp" indicates, I expect something is literally plugged in wrong or to the wrong line (or not plugged in). But.. what?

Hi All I actually can't find this info anywhere, in the workshop manual, google, SAU, or the local greek oracle. The R34 GTT oil pressure gauge is not the one that updates slowly and takes 20 minutes to tell you that you blew your engine up. However mine is not working, and I can't find any info on how this thing is supposed to be wired, or even where the sensor IS, to confirm that its hooked up right/not at all/broken. Every search result brings up info on installing additional oil pressure gauges but that's not what I want, I'd just like the stock one in the dash to work 'properly', or really just work at all. Essentially I used the point where it'd idle at when warm to determine if the engine oil was warm. And it was nice to see it move around with the throttle. Gave you that "This is working" feel. Anyone got any info on how this thing works? Edit: Workshop manual has some stuff as to where it is (I learned to look better) but not much on how it gets wired to the dash. Would love to be able to identify the part that is not plugged in right

This is something I liked to play with a lot, but I was never really 'sure' of the settings. Though my car was quite happy to sit around 15.5-16 and idle there, cruise around there at 100 etc, never really knew if it was right and backed it off a bit. (e85). Infact I could get it to cruise and idle at like 18:1 AFR, but I .. its numbers I was uncomfortable with but the car itself seemed to be happy enough to just rumble along like that. I ended up going for 14.7 or as near as possible when cruise/idle because it just 'felt better' (mentally, the car itself won't cough or splutter until like 20-21:1 AFR!) My main query is what about things like part throttle, 3-5psi, my AFR would usually be about ~13 or so, which 'felt' fine. What about things like in OP's post, high AFR at high RPM at 0 boost or vacuum? Is THAT safe? I realise you're on decal and most likely decel fuel cut when you hit 7000RPM at 0 psi or -5psi.. but what if you're on say, 1.5% throttle. Is this going to still work? I realise no one should be driving around at 7000rpm, in gear, at 1.5% throttle, but.. in the interests of tuning..

I could, but where's the fun in driving the car, having more fun and saving a LOT of money? That's not what owning a skyline is about, man.

Nah, to be fair there haven't been many dramas, other than surprise, new turbo needed! Just a lot of things to correct from previous build. A lot of time was lost engineering a flex plate from scratch that can handle dat torque. Which when you think about it, when your engine builder is creating a custom flex plate for an auto transmission from a mixture of RB30 and RB25 parts for a R34 gearbox which is different again.. you've probably chosen the correct people to solve problems.

That is what the first builders said This is what the second builders said

+1 another for traction tyres

Engine build complete after many dramas. 'greg can you come here and tune the start' Rock up with laptop Play with ECU car starts... and appears to run/idle fine/way smoother than it did before it died, no smoke, no leaks, just... purring away f**k, expect 7 years of bad luck now everyone I'm sorry

I have the same kit in my RB25Neo. Can confirm you need to do something about the squirters. I'm no engine builder but I believe they came to the same conclusion you did, and modded the pistons with a relief. The previous engine builder opted to just remove the squirters.

Natural selection /extremerightpro+

but my torque caused trent's dyno to reset

I have the haltech PS2000, but the PS1000, Elite (I think?) and the Skyline plug-in ECU's all use the same system, tables, method of correcting for ethanol, content. Practically its quite easy to do. However it could be time consuming. I am happy I have a wideband and can tinker with correction maps just incase 32% petrol (or whatever) decides it'd rather idle at 13.4 AFR instead of 14.7. I could see most tunes being 'slightly' out, but mainly only because it requires time to get *perfect*. Most tuners will tune on your most common fuel, then make some approximate (i.e, very safe) corrections for alternate fuels. Enough for spirited driving, but also enough that you'd want to gravitate toward your 'base' fuel as much as feasible.

Scotty, the PS version and most of the plugin ECU's (the R34 plugin does it) of haltech stuff will all do proper flex. Its not too complicated, as you said, it all goes off a 0-5v sensor, then has a separate map that it interpolates from for correction on timing, fuel, boost. I imagine this is also what Nistune does, as well as anything else that is flex capable.

With no context, I'll chime in because VWL There's a lot of things to consider between Engineering and Army. Consider them.

tbh, the whole asylum seekers debate is similar to welfare/benefits sometimes people do need it, and are genuine no one has a problem with these people, ever Then when you hear of someone genuine, who deserves help, and everyone be like makes the system as a whole better for humanity