Kinkstaah

I did get it from Just Jap due to impatience lol. I didn't actually FIND anything that was a stock dump replacement anywhere else, but my google fu is weak and I just wanted something I would know would fit. I'd much rather spend the extra $ for peace of mind, I didnt get a one piece front/dump simply because the guy didnt have a standard nissan turbo flange. He didnt tell me this mind you Wasnt really the optimal way to go about getting a turbo back exhaust!

I was in this situation (had a 'full' exhaust made which didnt have a dump in it...??) and ended up giving up and getting the HPI pipe. Its nice and shiny, and for the most part it was less stressful. I'm just a lay person but when I held the stock one side by side with the HPI one it was pretty clear one would flow better than the other

At least I didn't think it was related to the engine letting go. In my case I was talking about a 20k+++ forged stroker build which had no rhyme or reason to let go at the boost levels it was producing. I could set the boost controller in the ECU to free boost and set it for 250 PSI and just pin the WG closed and it'd never make more than about 20 psi, and could never really find out why... maybe it'll magically not occur after the rebuild but layman as I am I was kind of out of ideas as to how this could occur. Mine would be "OK" on wastegate pressure and hold 18 or so PSI, but itd only make 21 or so with the EBC, even when I set it to some ultra retarded high value.

Never let the rules get in the way of a good story!

Why DONT people like supras anyway? Logically they should hold their own or be superior to a GTST or GTT, why do they 'suck man omg' on the track?

I had a similar problem on my car (before it expoded - not related!) and never found the problem in regards to it.. Where boost would never (ever) reach the level set by the EBC - 100% confirmed it wasn't an exhaust or intake restriction (as I had removed them) and 100% positive the Vac lines were running correctly as they were checked and re-checked and hose clamped and such. Also confirmed the boost controller was actually working as I could hear it 'ticking' - What on earth could feasibly cause that kind of behaviour at that point?

I actually completely skipped P plate laws in Victoria by getting a "Full' license in the US then coming back here and converting it to a full Vic license. So it could in theory be done. You wouldn't be on your P plates though, but you can skip P's! /fuel

initially, until that got taken out for a neo then that neo got exploded (before I got it) rebuilt as a RB29 stroker, which was laggier than a RB25 and has also since exploded on the weekend (after about a month) about a year between each of those sentences fun times!

Everything. It is nothing but a story of pain. I am that guy people talk about when "it could be worse" Edit: Wasn't specifically talking about Racepace - Though I did email them about 2 years ago and got a "nah mate too hard" response to fixing my r34 . Do not blame them however!

I've found they do, then say "nah mate too hard" In other news, engine exploded making me rather sad. That said, had car for 2 consecutive months over 4 year period. Best record yet!

Thanks for the advice - Will post up here with results (if I remember) so anyone searching for a "what will actually fit my r34 gt" will actually get a result. I imagine the upgraded center will have to fit whatever 2nd hand diff goes back in, at least I'll know whats going in so I know what to get Thanks y'all!

Yep that matches what I've read but thanks for the confirmation, I'll guess I'll have to check with a diff specialist in regards to what is actually compatible with other versions of the car (and potentially upgrading the middle down the track)

Is there any feasible way to determine what the problem is? I mean ultimately the 'want' to uprgade the diff is there, but my knowledge of everything is pretty shaky. So step 1 is obtain a second hand diff that is not entirely destroyed to rule out the pinion/crownwheel? If that is then OK, that combo is used for an aftermarket diff center down the track then? In the meantime, can I just use 'any' GTT diff?, Is there a list of things that are actually compatible? The current diff isn't a LSD of any kind, I wasn't aware if the turbo skylines of any kind came with a completely open diff from the factory.

Also, I don't know much (anything) about Diffs other than that they make wheels spin. Or in a bad case, wheel. My diff makes a pretty hilarious high pitched whine at any speed (only on throttle) at 40kmh or higher. I have read a lot of diff whine threads here via search but mine is so loud that driving around at 8k RPM with a 5in exhaust and atmo bov would not come close to drowning out the sound, at least from perspective of the driver. Going on that alone (correct if wrong) I assume this diff is most likely going to die shortly. Thus a new one is in order, as it was on the plans to upgrade "eventually". However I've found that there appears to be about a billion different options which seem rather confusing to the novice. In short, Kaaz or Nismo 1.5 ways do not appear to be a one size fits all item. I don't really even mind about brands, but couldn't find any info on compatibility anywhere other than for Nismo.. The car started life as an AUTO R34 N/A Series 2 Sedan. (long story, but the car is no longer N/A and definitely requires some sort of LSD, and it is still auto) According to this chart -> http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/lsd/pdf/lsdpro_price.pdf The diff that is compatible is the 38420-RSS15-B5, with final ratio of 4.083 Is there anyone who can possibly confirm or deny this, or am I way off track? Wanted to be sure before ordering anything, as they cost a fair amount to find out that they don't fit/won't fit/can't be returned/can't be swapped/can't be made to fit and so on. I do realise that this is probably the most unlikely start car to ever go shopping to replace a diff in with a performance LSD - but figured if anyone would know it would be here.

It enables shifting gears via the steering wheel when the car is in triptronic mode.

The stock one is pretty crap in my experience (I replaced mine recently). I also managed to fit a 53MM China ebay radiator direct fit for a manual. (ASI - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/386081-ebay-aftermarket-radiators/page__p__6158297__hl__ebay%20china%20radiator__fromsearch__1#entry6158297) and it's been really good to me since then. Mind you, I have an external cooler for the trans, and had one already before getting the new radiator. The stock 16mm one was pretty flakey for me even after flushing etc, maybe just under-spec for aussie or just getting on in years. In any case I can relate to your predicament

Generally no, and they are smart about something as simple as, um, finding a turbo that isn't ordinarily there. You're on the right track about thinking on the subject of invisible engine internals for more POWAAAAH but in reality you would be paying way, way, way, way more on the stroker kit, labor, tuning, maybe double or more than the cost of buying the entire car (or buying a turbo). Save the forged engine/stroker kit money for a turbo engine model car when you can legally drive it, unless you're swimming in money and it doesnt matter at all, in which case just get a FT86 and put good ol P plates on it, like I've seen getting around..

Yep, appears noone really knows for sure.. some say "you cant do this as the car isnt registered here" and some say "you obey the laws on the road you're driving on" both of which seem equally 'logical' to me. Basically has a good ol single mount GTR from ACT and practically died inside when I told him he needs to go twins, go -5's, and go into hiding. Still in that denial phase I guess

As I've searched many a time on SAU I've found no concrete answer for this: Bear in mind, asking on behalf of someone else. Can NSW/ACT Registered cars, Registered at a NSW/ACT Location be EPA'ed in Victoria under Victorian rules if the car is deemed OK in its original state? Anyone know this yet? I'd call the EPA but its not my car and I'm lazy

I also have this transmission and have the "get stuck in 3rd and wont go to 4th for awhile" but I've put it down to just heat, it just won't go into fourth until warmed up. I noticed this way more when I got a much, much much larger AT Cooler installed by MV autos, and it doesn't have a thermostat. Meaning it takes a lot longer to go into 4th and if cruising around on a cold day will actually shift back into enforced third due to the fact it gets too cold. Dunno if that is actually what is occurring but it seems to 'fit' with my limited understanding of it all.

I too took it out, cleaned the filter (it didnt look like enough to clog it but believe me it does) as I found out myself. If you clean the filter, put it in, and it becomes clogged again, well the problem is not the pump. My commiserations if you end up having to pull the tank in a backyard like me . I ended up with just a GTR pump (almost the same as 040) but holy shit is it loud. But as long as it works, who cares

I had this exact issue and went through multiple pumps and eventually had to remove and clean the tank. I know that buzzing sound all too well and had identical symptoms. How sure are you that it isnt clogged? Sure as in pulled it out and looked at the mesh sure? Sure as in cleaned the mesh and checked it isnt clogged up again after you pull it out again sure? Sure as in tried a different 040 and waited for that dreaded buzzing to happen again? The last thing you want (believe me) is to buy multiple pumps to find out the tank is infact full of shit.

I did not know this. This is good. This will have to go on too. Thankyou for the info! I should also say (though the above reply is not to me) that cleaning the tank and solving the issue is absolutely the best way to attack this. If the job to remove a tank in a 32 or 33 really is a 10-15 minute job then don't think about doing anything else. The R34 tank in my case to remove and put back on is a 8hour+ job which is why I'm willing to entertain alternative solutions!

My weekend will be spent doing everything humanly possible sans removing the tank from the car. Willing to try anything, any other suggestions for suitable solvent?

Would this not just.. clog the sock?