Kinkstaah

Dare I ask what the best way of removing this is? I tend to replace the fuel filter when I replace the oil filter anyway (i.e every 5k kms), because it's .. right there, and costs like $10. I've only cleaned the pump out, but never really attempted to cut the mesh.

New S15? You mean that in the sense that they are most likely exactly the same as a stock S15, (or 14, or 13) but cost a massive amount more? I'd really like to see someone compare them head to head and then casually mention the price difference.

Seriously. It is an utter bastard on the R34. So much so I'd almost rather spend $1200 on fuel pumps lol. I'll try the filter and jerry can thing and post here just incase some poor soul has this problem and searches the forums and finds this (like I did)

Having used three of them in the last week I have nothing bad to say about them other than that they are driving me mad by failing right out of the box due to clogging! (I realise this is not a pump issue )

I have a R34 with the same issue as the OP - Except I've gone through pumps in as little as uh, one day. I was able to take the pump out, clean the mesh with it (Bosch 040) and put it back in and suprise suprise, it actually worked... ...until today, where it is again groaning and carrying on. The above solution from Jez sounds like it's something to try, at $200 a pop, I can't afford a new pump every couple of days, but I CAN afford to buy like five fuel filters and some jerry cans and pump the tank through them and rinse/repeat instead of obliterating the mesh in the pump and killing pumps over and over. While this sounds like the ultimate backyard fix, um.. would this actually work? Any thoughts? Its much, much, much easier to replace a filter in the R34 than the pump. (and especially the tank) How often is often? 5k kms? Or is this option just madness? Happy to do either or both, really, really tired of replacing fuel pumps.. twice a week.

Entertaining.

My only regret regarding this place is that only James died.

If you are going to modify your car, do your research on what you want to eventually get out of it, and then wait and buy one that's done it already and you will save mega mega mega bucks for the same result.

I had a mixed response from Stateroads. They picked up a lot of good 'generic car' stuff and was very helpful. However, they couldn't pick a backyard NA+T job over a GTT (neither could I, I was new to it all). Would recommend taking it to a workshop as well as stateroads, if you know the car has mods/has been modded to get a 2nd opinion.

Funnilly enough, I was told by MV that the kits do result in a stronger box, but then again I raised the question before I sent my transmission off to them to build it. The stage 2 kit is completely OK for driving around on the street, the first to 2nd shift can be a bit 'extreme' when putting along at 20kmh, but it's not like a neck snapping, tyre screeching experience driving along normally at 20% throttle. At least mine isn't. If you are in SA, then MV are the obvious choice to go to. I am pretty sure they can do whatever you need done, but you have to know what you need first (like most things!)

As a power gamer, I can warn everyone that playing this game as a NON-Powergamer is far more entertaining. If you try to get the ultra best gear an ultra best strategies you can easily 'break' it and make the game way too easy (even on master) Be warned before you hit that console key, or google for tips!

Yeah, I'm a lost cause, I can actually drive a manual.. the inital idea was that a built up auto box was quicker (as in faster) and easier (as in daily driving) and was told that it would be simple and easy to get working. The reason I didnt buy a turbo initially was that I was actually told it *was* a turbo initially. Except it was a NA+T advertised as a turbo. I would have taken it to court but: a) I didn't know how much it cost in final monetary value to fix it to get it back to what was advertised (and I still dont) b) The seller is now deceased It went in as a "can this be sorted out and legal" and has turned into an epic nightmare full on build that is entirely totally f**ked. Hence my word of warning earlier - get a manual conversion or just DO NOT do this swap, there's literally no real reason to do it, just buy a turbo to begin with. Either that, or, for those who did o this swap and it is simple and easy, if these forum regulars are willing to document the process so that well known, reputable workshops are able to replicate it I will pay you good money to do so, for everyone's sake

I did look into it and Trent @ Status said it couldn't be done, in addition to Dr Drift also stating it couldn't be done after taking a look at the N/A ECU, apparently the setup of it is different and missing a lot of components that Nistune requires to work. But if CRD can do it (or anyone), please post here as it massively solves my problem too

Manual GTT ECU did not work when it was tried on my car... Need some kind of super duper guide with pictures methinks.. if I ever get my car going I'm still offering to drive it up to brisbane for your input on it and pay a shedload for it. To the OP - This is the scenario you are in and it's not a good one, not a good one at all!

Got a feeling you'll get quite a few responses saying you won't 'need' the Nismo FPR, the Radiator, the head gasket, cams, or BOV for 400 rwhp, and that Nistune is the simple, easy and (visually) legal ECU choice if you're in VIC. Also saves some dollars.

I was under the impression there is a seperate Transmission ECU, not that the N/A ECU has Transmission elements in it? (dan is the aforementioned guru thats the only one who has ever done this before)

Yeah, this I believe was done, but similar to to the OP, I was told all the plugs don't fit fully, I.E, the loom from the Turbo GTT (auto) can't be made to fit the N/A Auto on the car side regarding the dash and auto loom, and getting complete wiring from a GTT still didn't help as there was no way to actually connect it to the car as it was (inexplicably) different? My car is a Series II, it was (and still is) a hugely frustrating case of "It really should be the same, but its inexplicably different and messed up". Thats not to say it wasnt attempted, I believe both looms got butchered and hacked together so very badly that in the end when the solution was "Get a N/A loom and a piggyback until manual conversion/fully manual auto".. a completely new loom had to be purchased for the N/A car, as neither were in any shape to be used. (and then the loom was from a S1, and would you know it, the ABS unit from a S1 R34 has different plugs to a S2 R34?, but luckily the S3 R34 and the S15 have the same ABS unit). I don't think anyone involved knew what a nightmare it would be until it was actually attempted. I'm sure its possible to do in a backyard if you are an elite auto electrician (as anything is possible), but in the real world the solutions are: "f**k it do a manual conversion" "f**k it, use a piggyback ECU" "f**k it, don't put a turbo engine into a N/A R34" "f**k it, put this built engine into a completely different car" Oh and pro tip out there for anyone reading this, don't try and use a BC 2.9 Stroker kit into a R34 NEO engine, because you're gonna need custom pistons that noone has ever made before, apparently. Seriously, "abandon all hope, ye who enter here" kind of shit. /rant

(be aware I am just a lay man who has heard many things about this one specific issue only) Apparently the transmission itself is much the same, as in the auto box. It's all in the wiring and looms etc. In theory if that is the case it would be possible to have a GTT Auto ECU run the box, as long as the ECU is seeing what it is expecting to see. Except this seems to be massively difficult in practice. I suppose you could throw a R34 Turbo Auto Trans in there too but I was advised (by auto shops) that it is the same. A fully manualized kit is basically what it is, you manually shift up and down gears with a ratchet shifter. Think of it as permament triptronic mode. I was advised this would negate the need for an ECU, as, well, nothing is controlled electronically anymore when it comes to gears. I.E you could just put a manual ECU in there, and shift all you want via the shifter, manually. Again, heresay, couldn't find anyone who has ever attempted it. Manual Conversion will fix it. I personally didn't do it as I had already spent tons on the transmission upgrades and was 'told' it'd be easy to get working (seems not). This may be fixable in my case if it really IS just wiring, but, noone seems to want to try/test this as it's been such a nightmare for everyone involved. From my shopping around, a PS2000 I was told was overkill. (Lots of features that may not be needed) In my car a Platinum Sprint 500 was enough to get the tune right, which unfortunately resulted in me discovering a plume of oily smoke appearing at 6800 RPM due to damage caused by epic pinging of the previous ECU. I dont know the rules regarding ECU's in NSW. In VIC they're always illegal, so a Haltech is nice as it's physically very small. (No need to hide it under passenger seat). However if I get an EPA I'm doomed, so I've already started thinking about how to get around the problem when it inevitably occurs. According to haltech.com.au, the ECU itself (the PS2000) is $2400. So them quoting the price they did to supply, fit, install, and tune is quite reasonable. That said, the Sprint500 is $940. THAT said, go with whatever the tuner is more comfortable in tuning. ESPECIALLY if you are in the situation you are in. But as suggested before, if you are considering doing a manual conversion, it will fix your problem too. Ditto for upgrading the transmission (99%, according to MV Autos). I wouldn't use a piggyback ECU unless I absolutely have to (mainly due to VIC laws), which appears .. heh, I do.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news here (and believe me, its bad) My car has been off the road for 2yrs+ due to this and a host of other issues relating to it. The way I see it, the easy way out is the N/A ECU with a piggyback ECU on the N/A ecu to get the tune right. (You cannot run NISTune on a N/A R34 ECU) May want to steer away from the E-Manage Ultimate if you are choosing this ECU. Mine ended up with a pinging issue which destroyed the engine on the dyno, before I ever got it back.. A Haltech Piggyback ECU did not have this problem. Whether its acutally the ECU or wiring or what have you, I do not know. Just a word of caution... Other Options: Fully Manualized Auto Shift kit to get rid of the Transmission ECU Manual Conversion Could then use a standard Turbo ECU, or NISTune or one of the other many many options available. I read here that its possible to get the Transmission ECU to behave seperately and use a Manual standalone ECU for the engine, but after thousands of hours it was deemed to not work. Called many people who didn't want to touch it, and was prepared to fly the only person on SAU to have ever apparently done it down from Brisbane to have a look at it, but that never seemed to eventuate. If you ever, ever, ever planned to do a manual conversion, or totally beef up the transmission, now is the time. Alternatively, should the guys in WA get this sorted through some sorcery, I am willing to ship my car to them (from VIC) to do it too, lol.

I bought my car in May 2009.. It's not ever been what anyone would consider drivable. It's spent all of this time at a workshop. Everyone in my life makes fun of me over this.

What he said is a bit.. 'insensitive' but you have to admit given the (incomplete?) facts it is a seemingly pretty valid concern. It is, after all, a car. There's quite a few things that need to come first in life instead of a car. If all those things are actually appropriately managed then by all means mod away

Look on carsales for a skyline with mods at ~8K price higher than what you got your current car for. Add up the costs of getting all of those mods onto your new car from scratch. If you are going to upgrade it at all, this is honestly the best decision to make

Apparently mine is too old to be retrofitted to new spec. I suppose could re-use the housing itself but that's it. On the flip side, when my car is ACTUALLY running, I am sure there will be the next generation hiflows out

I wish I could upgrade my turbo to these crazy new options

It does feel like DNF was released in 2008 though. If you never played the first one you won't get it (I did, lots) DNF now in essence mocks the ultra serious FPS games going around now fighting terrorists in deserts or what have you, MW, BF, etc, COD, whatever. The people who actually enjoy those shooters will most likely dislike duke as it's essentially taking the piss out of them now too