Kinkstaah

Same, had a bit of an annoying traffic experience, then a dude came round a roundabout in a Stagea (and had right of way, so I was waiting for him) Gave me a peace sign as he drove by. +1 to whoever that was

It's a pretty golden rule of cars, any car, that you dont want fuel ANYWHERE other than where you specifically want fuel.. if you dont feel comfortable changing it, get a shop to do it... you just don't want fuel exploding in any incorrect area, nor do you want fumes messing with your head while driving, its a core safety thing that is well worth the uh, 40 minutes it'd take to get it sorted

Or you could, of course, simply drive a supra on your P's, to get that supra like performance, at supra like costs, on supra-legal P plates.

I would be very happy if my car was only 1 week late, hell I'd be happy if my car was only 1 year late. I dare say most people suck it up and pay the extra costs, though most people also shouldn't do that.

I also looked at GT-A's on Carsales yesterday, and from what I've read, seems to be a pretty decent package for a sleeper daily, no bonnet vents, no wing (optional), Triptronic, but everything else is an Evo 7. Pretty street/utility friendly being a sedan, too. For about the same price of a 1995 GT-R you can get a 2003-3 GT-A.. Brand loyalty aside, the questions and comparisons do warrant looking into..

If you buy a R34 GT-T or V35 you may regret it down the road. If you buy a R32 or R33 GT-R you will never ultimately wish for a GT-T or V35.

So, to sum up the entire thread in a TLDR version: 1) If you never, ever, ever lose grip, or have to compromise your handling setup to obtain grip, RWD is great, and better due to it being lighter. 2) in the real world, with real power, in real cars 1) Never Occurs (or at least doesn't for 99.9%) of the time. Does that about sum it up?

This, inside a stock looking housing, is exactly what people want, or at least I want. That, and the SS-2 Prototype which was a few pages back now which made 320rwkw with full boost at about ~3700, and you have pretty much got what 100% of all people want who arent doing massive internals work to their engine.

Speed limits in italy etc are 130kmh in general.. my gf was born and lived in rome .. well since forever (she only really just moved here) and the one thing she is paranoid is of speed limits here. Apparently italians generally don't give much of a shit while speeding, the whole "I'm 10kmh over the 130 limit and someone is telling me to GTFO out of the way" is pretty common. Even if it's the police, lol. That said, always best to bust out the ol Camry on long weekends

I have a feeling the rest of the car is going to have serious issues running without it. My own issues aside, it would be nice to have this information in general/someone searching having (attempted) to look around, there is a dire shortage of auto electricians for imports in general.

Thanks for the tips guys, will follow them up. Essentially what has happened is an Engine swap with a piggyback ECU. Airbag light is on, constantly The AC doesnt work (at all - Electrically the interface works, but no air comes out of half of the vents, and the heater doesnt work, ideal for those cold mornings when I like to see out of my windscreen) Check engine light is constantly on (error 21) though its had every ignition thing changed, brand new splitfires, etc, CAS changed, etc. As soon as you hit 6000 RPM the ECU ignores whatever timing settings are put into the car, and advances by 50 degrees, even though the ECU software is telling it to add 10 (or so).. setting it to -20 in this range still results in +30 or so.. (not sure if an auto elec can fix this/is the right guy for this) Alarm is mysteriously not connected, immobilizer etc just doesn't work, remote start doesnt work Some of the time the car won't start. It just sits there firing for a good 100 or so tries. This used to happen about 30% of the time, since I replaced a lot of vaccum lines this has now lessened, but does randomly still occur (i'd say about 10% of the time). A lot of the time, it really, really, really is reluctant to start. I realise not all of these may be auto electric issues (others omitted..) but I figure that there is definitiely wiring issues going on that need to be sorted out.

I have already emailed Sam and (by proxy) his friend Bozz, was aware he was a bit of a gun with electrics.. though, they know the full story with this car so they may be well advised to GTFO far, far, far, far away from it. I realise they are a bit busy, so sent them an email without a reply but when their website tells you to be patient, I can understand they have other stuff to do, lol I just didn't know if there was anyone else out there, or people that were in the know/on forums/expert backyard sparkies or the like. It seems when people do things like engine swaps and loom changes and adaptations that it seems to be a dark art practiced in places no-one can readily identify. As for what the problem is, there's actually about 10... most of which seemingly are connected or could have roots in an electrical problem.

... and the only result there just told me they don't work on Grey Imports. (Car is a 34) So, is there anyone that does? I've probably called 50 random places now, and noone does, and noone can even advise of someone who does. Are electrical issues 100% Backyard jobs on these things or what . Longest Story in history short: I got a car back from a workshop, with outstanding electrical problems. Problems I do not believe they can fix, also don't get the impression they can fix them either. Problems that did not exist before the car went there. However, I can't find anyone, at all, to work on this, or even give me a quote on it so I can put a monetary value on the problems to take them to VCAT. Anyone know anyone who actually does work on these things?

I am all for 4cyl N/A's FWD SEDAN ONLY rule for P platers. I'm all for restricting them to cars which could not possibly even considered fast, as in too slow for the biggest bogan in history to even attempt. Its the same vein as "guns dont kill people, people kill people" etc. Yet gun restriction lowers gun problems, the same applies to drivers who really are in that "I HAVE A PENIS, LOOK AT ME GO!!!" stage of their lives.

Got my order that I ordered on Jan 18.. today (original eta was 5 days) There's also the small problem of half the order missing, and no invoice. 'tis good. But they did send me an email about it, so, I suppose all is not entirely lost for those in a similar situation.

Injectors are literally brand new, have done about 100kms. Believe this issue occured (ONCE, while jump starting the car, before new battery too) before they were put in. For what its worth, car did this.. this morning, at 6am, when it was about 10C outside. I guess it just seems to happen more when warm. If I had to guess, I'd say it just won't kick over about.. 20-25% of the time.

Have a look at their website (or lack thereof)

Yeah, it starts with a quick spray.. 100% of the time, at least the... handful.. of times I've tried it. I guess that makes sense also given almost everything else is ruled out.. also I suppose it starting when cold, i.e running richer due to.. it being cold and trying to warm up. That said, it's effectively a brand new Bosch 040, that is certainly pumping fuel fairly happily every other time..

Was searching for solutions to this when I found this thread as I have the same issue... In my case the doesn't really like starting even when cold, but it does start, but is hesitant to do so. I have had it start when warm but it's pretty inconsistent. Inconsistent enough for me to carry a can of start ya bastard in the glovebox. This is not an ideal solution.. Have replaced Battery (brand new), brand new spark plugs, coil packs (splitfires) Same as OP.. just sits there turning over forever (or until battery dies), for example BEFORE I bought a new battery, I had someone jump start this car with their car, and a battery pack thing, and I believe the car turned over after about the 150th attempt.

Hi all What is the official name of the thing circled in red? The picture is from a R34 (GT Sedan) Fuel tank. I need a new one of these. I need it rather quickly, because right now the existing one is creating a bit of a fuel leak. If anyone has ever taken out a 34 fuel tank it's also a pretty hefty job (at least for simpletons like me) and I'd like to get it once, right, and up and going again. Bonus points if it's a shared item with any other ADM Nissan (here's hoping it is) so I can go out and get one from a shelf somewhere. I'd rather a new one, as a 10 year old plastic part could easily soon have the same problem (though I've not seen a thread about it) Cheers, helpful forum people!

I too, bought something on Jan 18, was given a 10 day eta (all was fine, and so on).. tis now March 23. Tried to call, and phone is disconnected. Its also entirely possible they are just having problems with their phone

Yesterday saw a nice Bayside Blue R34 GT Coupe with P plates (and SAU Stickers) line up next to a ford GT-P which was revving its face off. Ford drives off like a maniac, our SAU'er drives away normally with a look on his face that simply said "dickhead" (in reference to the ford driver) +1 young SAU'er It was on the intersection of Blackburn road and Ferntree gully road yesterday

And if you CAN aford what Paul is saying here, do the smarter thing and do the upgrades everyone is saying..

If anything, I think the second review is more positive than the first one. He credits the car with simply never breaking loose and just gripping to the track, every time, all the time, etc. The GT-R seems to have way more grip and brakes than outright power, so it will 'feel' boring. I suppose if some modders decided to add a couple of hundred HP it'd smash more things and be considerably more 'exciting' as it stresses the car's limits on grip. Now if he had've said that, everyone listening would have been happy with his judgement all of the sudden

...whether there are different ABS computers for Series 1 or Series 2 R34 N/A's? My car is a Series II. Amongst other things I won't get into, there is a question of (what is supposedly) a R34 N/A Engine loom, not connecting to the ABS ECU thats in the engine bay. I'm told this stock loom has different plugs than this stock ABS Computer. However, they've asked around, and found many other ABS computers which apparently are just like mine. This would be highly unusual if Series II are different as there are far less Series II arounds than Series I. Can anyone shed any light on this, lol.