Kinkstaah

Also, I don't know much (anything) about Diffs other than that they make wheels spin. Or in a bad case, wheel. My diff makes a pretty hilarious high pitched whine at any speed (only on throttle) at 40kmh or higher. I have read a lot of diff whine threads here via search but mine is so loud that driving around at 8k RPM with a 5in exhaust and atmo bov would not come close to drowning out the sound, at least from perspective of the driver. Going on that alone (correct if wrong) I assume this diff is most likely going to die shortly. Thus a new one is in order, as it was on the plans to upgrade "eventually". However I've found that there appears to be about a billion different options which seem rather confusing to the novice. In short, Kaaz or Nismo 1.5 ways do not appear to be a one size fits all item. I don't really even mind about brands, but couldn't find any info on compatibility anywhere other than for Nismo.. The car started life as an AUTO R34 N/A Series 2 Sedan. (long story, but the car is no longer N/A and definitely requires some sort of LSD, and it is still auto) According to this chart -> http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/lsd/pdf/lsdpro_price.pdf The diff that is compatible is the 38420-RSS15-B5, with final ratio of 4.083 Is there anyone who can possibly confirm or deny this, or am I way off track? Wanted to be sure before ordering anything, as they cost a fair amount to find out that they don't fit/won't fit/can't be returned/can't be swapped/can't be made to fit and so on. I do realise that this is probably the most unlikely start car to ever go shopping to replace a diff in with a performance LSD - but figured if anyone would know it would be here.

It enables shifting gears via the steering wheel when the car is in triptronic mode.

The stock one is pretty crap in my experience (I replaced mine recently). I also managed to fit a 53MM China ebay radiator direct fit for a manual. (ASI - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/386081-ebay-aftermarket-radiators/page__p__6158297__hl__ebay%20china%20radiator__fromsearch__1#entry6158297) and it's been really good to me since then. Mind you, I have an external cooler for the trans, and had one already before getting the new radiator. The stock 16mm one was pretty flakey for me even after flushing etc, maybe just under-spec for aussie or just getting on in years. In any case I can relate to your predicament

Generally no, and they are smart about something as simple as, um, finding a turbo that isn't ordinarily there. You're on the right track about thinking on the subject of invisible engine internals for more POWAAAAH but in reality you would be paying way, way, way, way more on the stroker kit, labor, tuning, maybe double or more than the cost of buying the entire car (or buying a turbo). Save the forged engine/stroker kit money for a turbo engine model car when you can legally drive it, unless you're swimming in money and it doesnt matter at all, in which case just get a FT86 and put good ol P plates on it, like I've seen getting around..

Yep, appears noone really knows for sure.. some say "you cant do this as the car isnt registered here" and some say "you obey the laws on the road you're driving on" both of which seem equally 'logical' to me. Basically has a good ol single mount GTR from ACT and practically died inside when I told him he needs to go twins, go -5's, and go into hiding. Still in that denial phase I guess

As I've searched many a time on SAU I've found no concrete answer for this: Bear in mind, asking on behalf of someone else. Can NSW/ACT Registered cars, Registered at a NSW/ACT Location be EPA'ed in Victoria under Victorian rules if the car is deemed OK in its original state? Anyone know this yet? I'd call the EPA but its not my car and I'm lazy

I also have this transmission and have the "get stuck in 3rd and wont go to 4th for awhile" but I've put it down to just heat, it just won't go into fourth until warmed up. I noticed this way more when I got a much, much much larger AT Cooler installed by MV autos, and it doesn't have a thermostat. Meaning it takes a lot longer to go into 4th and if cruising around on a cold day will actually shift back into enforced third due to the fact it gets too cold. Dunno if that is actually what is occurring but it seems to 'fit' with my limited understanding of it all.

I too took it out, cleaned the filter (it didnt look like enough to clog it but believe me it does) as I found out myself. If you clean the filter, put it in, and it becomes clogged again, well the problem is not the pump. My commiserations if you end up having to pull the tank in a backyard like me . I ended up with just a GTR pump (almost the same as 040) but holy shit is it loud. But as long as it works, who cares

I had this exact issue and went through multiple pumps and eventually had to remove and clean the tank. I know that buzzing sound all too well and had identical symptoms. How sure are you that it isnt clogged? Sure as in pulled it out and looked at the mesh sure? Sure as in cleaned the mesh and checked it isnt clogged up again after you pull it out again sure? Sure as in tried a different 040 and waited for that dreaded buzzing to happen again? The last thing you want (believe me) is to buy multiple pumps to find out the tank is infact full of shit.

I did not know this. This is good. This will have to go on too. Thankyou for the info! I should also say (though the above reply is not to me) that cleaning the tank and solving the issue is absolutely the best way to attack this. If the job to remove a tank in a 32 or 33 really is a 10-15 minute job then don't think about doing anything else. The R34 tank in my case to remove and put back on is a 8hour+ job which is why I'm willing to entertain alternative solutions!

My weekend will be spent doing everything humanly possible sans removing the tank from the car. Willing to try anything, any other suggestions for suitable solvent?

Would this not just.. clog the sock?

Dare I ask what the best way of removing this is? I tend to replace the fuel filter when I replace the oil filter anyway (i.e every 5k kms), because it's .. right there, and costs like $10. I've only cleaned the pump out, but never really attempted to cut the mesh.

New S15? You mean that in the sense that they are most likely exactly the same as a stock S15, (or 14, or 13) but cost a massive amount more? I'd really like to see someone compare them head to head and then casually mention the price difference.

Seriously. It is an utter bastard on the R34. So much so I'd almost rather spend $1200 on fuel pumps lol. I'll try the filter and jerry can thing and post here just incase some poor soul has this problem and searches the forums and finds this (like I did)

Having used three of them in the last week I have nothing bad to say about them other than that they are driving me mad by failing right out of the box due to clogging! (I realise this is not a pump issue )

I have a R34 with the same issue as the OP - Except I've gone through pumps in as little as uh, one day. I was able to take the pump out, clean the mesh with it (Bosch 040) and put it back in and suprise suprise, it actually worked... ...until today, where it is again groaning and carrying on. The above solution from Jez sounds like it's something to try, at $200 a pop, I can't afford a new pump every couple of days, but I CAN afford to buy like five fuel filters and some jerry cans and pump the tank through them and rinse/repeat instead of obliterating the mesh in the pump and killing pumps over and over. While this sounds like the ultimate backyard fix, um.. would this actually work? Any thoughts? Its much, much, much easier to replace a filter in the R34 than the pump. (and especially the tank) How often is often? 5k kms? Or is this option just madness? Happy to do either or both, really, really tired of replacing fuel pumps.. twice a week.

Entertaining.

My only regret regarding this place is that only James died.

If you are going to modify your car, do your research on what you want to eventually get out of it, and then wait and buy one that's done it already and you will save mega mega mega bucks for the same result.

I had a mixed response from Stateroads. They picked up a lot of good 'generic car' stuff and was very helpful. However, they couldn't pick a backyard NA+T job over a GTT (neither could I, I was new to it all). Would recommend taking it to a workshop as well as stateroads, if you know the car has mods/has been modded to get a 2nd opinion.

Funnilly enough, I was told by MV that the kits do result in a stronger box, but then again I raised the question before I sent my transmission off to them to build it. The stage 2 kit is completely OK for driving around on the street, the first to 2nd shift can be a bit 'extreme' when putting along at 20kmh, but it's not like a neck snapping, tyre screeching experience driving along normally at 20% throttle. At least mine isn't. If you are in SA, then MV are the obvious choice to go to. I am pretty sure they can do whatever you need done, but you have to know what you need first (like most things!)

As a power gamer, I can warn everyone that playing this game as a NON-Powergamer is far more entertaining. If you try to get the ultra best gear an ultra best strategies you can easily 'break' it and make the game way too easy (even on master) Be warned before you hit that console key, or google for tips!

Yeah, I'm a lost cause, I can actually drive a manual.. the inital idea was that a built up auto box was quicker (as in faster) and easier (as in daily driving) and was told that it would be simple and easy to get working. The reason I didnt buy a turbo initially was that I was actually told it *was* a turbo initially. Except it was a NA+T advertised as a turbo. I would have taken it to court but: a) I didn't know how much it cost in final monetary value to fix it to get it back to what was advertised (and I still dont) b) The seller is now deceased It went in as a "can this be sorted out and legal" and has turned into an epic nightmare full on build that is entirely totally f**ked. Hence my word of warning earlier - get a manual conversion or just DO NOT do this swap, there's literally no real reason to do it, just buy a turbo to begin with. Either that, or, for those who did o this swap and it is simple and easy, if these forum regulars are willing to document the process so that well known, reputable workshops are able to replicate it I will pay you good money to do so, for everyone's sake

I did look into it and Trent @ Status said it couldn't be done, in addition to Dr Drift also stating it couldn't be done after taking a look at the N/A ECU, apparently the setup of it is different and missing a lot of components that Nistune requires to work. But if CRD can do it (or anyone), please post here as it massively solves my problem too