Kinkstaah

That's the thing I don't get is the issue is not the shocks in the 34 GTT...... I assume the GTR geometry is different here. SQUARE PEG IN ROUND HOLE WHY WON'T YOU WORK!

I was! The caliper difference wasn't that much, but I was going through brake pads at a rate of like 3:1 (and more in the rear). I know how rear brake/trailing is supposed to work, i.e steer the car with the pedals, but this was definitely extreme. Much better now, getting on the brakes and feeling the *fronts* lock up first. That said, I too am going to use a 370z setup (for this and other reasons). Update your BMC if you haven't already, Dose. If you already have and have this problem... then uh, welcome to weight transfer at the track, it is scary as f**k until you master the fear and become one with the dance of the machine. (I have not become one with the dance of the machine)

One of my questions about this was how/if the R34 GTR strut is different to the R34 GTT (I mean it could easily be). In my car, the 18x9+30 feels like it is 0.0001mm from the strut with a 265 on it. Given a 10.5 +15 is closer to the strut than an 18x9+30, it would certainly foul... surely I am encouraged that a 19x11+25 would need a spacer to clear the R34 GTR suspension arms at least!

I was super whining about this for years by upgrading the front BBK, leaving the stock rear brakes, and not updating the BMC. The moment I did that I felt the front actually get the pressure it actually wanted, and it you know... worked

One thing you may be able to leverage is the fact that the R34 N/A has the same setup as a S15. The S15 also is a car that gets 350Z diff swapped, so they will also likely have this problem. The caveat of course is it's possible the dash is different between the R34 NA and the S15, but the subframe/sensors/axles/diff setup are the same. I can't remember now as it's been too long, but I don't generally think people need to swap dashes between the N/A dash and the turbo dash when they do things like change the gearbox out, turbo their car, manual swap it, it's just not something I've seen mentioned so this could be compatible.

The -9 is absolutely regarded as the best choice lol. It's a 'better -7' with -5 and -10 being too big. There's probably better twins nowadays, but just throw a single on and that sums up about 30,000 posts on this topic.

You could still sell the car and buy the already-done one in QLD.

I had a NA box with a shift kit from MV Automatics. It obliterated itself in very quick order. Everyone goes manual for a reason. It is easier to just learn manual and have a more fun car than pretty much any other alternative regarding an Auto skyline. The other option is as GTSBoy said, is to absolutely swing for the fences and go a 8HP conversion, but by 'swing for the fences' I mean $15,000+, which isn't often in the cards for somebody who recently bought the vehicle.

I sure did. $750.

Thought "pft, how bad could it really be? I've seen some bad rejoins in iRacing" H O L Y. Talk about being both incredibly lucky and unlucky at the same time.

TBH it's almost always due to inaccurate/misinterpreted use case, but this is not just brakes, it's everything. Dose's above post would be unacceptably shit, in my experience. When I say "track day performance" I mean 30 minutes of continuous hot lap braking with no cooldowns, no fade, no letting up. Your use case is paramount when selecting... well... anything.

I'm about to sell my Attakd kit actually, so if you want a budget 2nd hand kit they definitely do work, though make sure you update your BMC when/if you do. Just keep in mind that buying pads (for any aftermarket kit) can be a bit more complicated when you have an aftermarket caliper. Not all brands make pads in the shapes and sizes you may want, no matter what you end up with.

I have a question with regards to R34 GTR guards. All the info here is quite old. Useful, but old. At what point does the bumper itself become a clearance issue with wide wheels on a R34 GTR, specifically the part I've drawn in red here: All of the info that people post about implies that 285 is as far as you'd go before scrubbing becomes an issue, but they speak of hitting the inner plastic liners, not the bumper itself. Just how wide could you go if you took the liners out? Has anyone done it? I have been messing with my own car and spacers and heavily cursed my lack of planning, but I might not feel so bad if there's actually no gains to be had by going a GTR guard and front bar combination for $5k+ of money I do not have after spending about that much already on my solution which now has problems. (Woo) At least I now know why GTR guards and bumpers flare out like this over their GTT lesser cousins. I feel that in 2024, someone has gone further and attempted to run 315's or somesuch on the front of a R34 GTR. If you have, please post. If you're tried and failed for some other reason definitely post so I feel better about my mistakes

Genuine URAS Type R front guards in FRP. These will fit a GTT. They will only fit a GTT. If you have a GT or GTT and want wider fenders with a Z tune look up top, this is what you want. You use this with a regular GTT fitment bar. Not a GTR bar. They fit GTT guard liners and plastics, not GTR items. So if you're reading this thinking "Ah! I have a GTT or GT and want wider front guards that bolt directly on, but do not want the hassle of changing my bonnet and bumper and plastics and undertrays or anything else, this is what you want. The fitment is annoyingly perfect. I really would rather someone pick these up in person and not ship them. SE Melb.

Why didn't you buy the one I originally linked in QLD which was about 18k and in massively better condition with about 30k of tastefulmods holyshitmygodjesuschristman.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1394082951286916/ I have personally driven this car, lowball and buy :D. Save yourself all the time on the obvious upgrades later, which you will want to do, and end up costing much more than this. Save this post so you can refer back to it later when you tinker on it and do the same mods and spend more money.

Yeah but: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/224676450724341/?ref=marketplace_pdp_share Add wheels of choice like:

https://www.my105.com/search/details/2001-holden-commodore-ute/0c25dc51-94c1-4b31-8356-1089488d08c3?source=SEARCH_RESULT You should buy or do this instead. About MX5's, the smart money is on the NC, specifically the NC2 if your budget goes that far, and with MX5 pricing that's pretty much where they go. Occasionally you see them pop up with tasteful mods like suspension and such, but the NC2 is the quiet sleeper of the range in terms of overall goodness.

Yeah truthfully it seems like the headlight supports for the ALTIA and S2 should be the same, but they aren't. I can only guess that the grill area of the Altia bar is different to the grill area of the S2 bar. Either that or it's due to the S1 bar having an angle up to the center bar that the Altia doesn't, or something. That said, I recently bought an Altia bar myself, and I fit it over the S1 brackets and thought "Yes, this will all work fine" so even as I doubt my own words as I post, I also daresay you'll be okay.

I should also say that the while they are different the only parts that matter are the center headlight supports and center bar from S1 to S2. The center bar will work, but the S1 has holes that clips go through into the S1 bumper. So if you were super cheap you could simply drill the S2 bar. Same thing with the side/wings. They have slightly different 'clips' but can be made to work. The center headlight brackets however, cannot. This is also where the GTR differs, which has a different center bar, and different headlight supports (to either GTT system), it also has different 'wing' headlight supports which is what I am calling under the headlight. However those CAN be made to work with the GTT Reo for a GTR front bar by a small spacer and a drill/tapping a thread into the reo because the bolt positions are slightly different. So people only really need the center brackets to go between GTT S1, GTT S2, and GTR if you are happy to do some tinkering.

350-400kw will not keep that basically stock motor basically stock very long, especially for track only use. It will decide to need a rebuild pretty quickly. I'd go smaller, and not cheap out with a Pulsar item based on older tech. Get a G25 550/660. Just better in every way. Don't think about changing a turbo until AFTER you change your injectors (S15 injectors x6? What CC are those?) and coils/fuel pump. They won't keep up with any aftermarket turbo.

What if I told you it fit easier than the RB...... Realistically it's a lot of work, but suprisingly similar IF you didn't have a R33 with literally all of the supporting accessories and electronics and manifolds and cooling ready to go. If you had literally a bare engine bay and no transmission, it'd be an apt comparison to make. If you just want to make 280-300kw all day just rebuild the RB and get a modern turbo and enjoy life.

I mean nah, lets be honest it's significantly worse. BMW's are absolutely not the same age, replacements are not the same level of robustness. Most would say an E36 is more solid than an E90X and I would still say an E36 is a little more rickety than your equivalent R chassis over time. BMW pretty much have a huge void between E36 and anything with a B58/ZF onward. I kinda get the appeal if they work, but they just don't. I get that the vibe is "do a track day in executive comfort" but in all seriousness, a VE Commodore is as comfortable and certainly more solid* around a track, and they are hardly up there in the high list of "Excellent track cars". See also: Barra Turbo with coilovers or _something_. I mean a great deal of these cars/choices are always irrational, but I at least try to stay rational, or at least have some rational argument why I did X and not Y :D. My pet peeve is irrational badge snobbery. There is no reason to buy a Luxury SUV when anything from Kia will do the job better, and cheaper. I know someone who has a twin turbo diesel X5 making 400kw or whatever and as soon as he opens his mouth I say nothing but "You are an idiot who has wasted your money" and tell him to buy a Tesla Model X/Y as it is superior to anything he will do with that car. (he does not like this, but he deserves it, just trust me..) But Prank seems like a nice guy. I want him to sell this 335i before sadness kicks in more and buy something far happier at the track, like an 86, or a Megane RS, or an Evo, or even save the money on mods and buy a 440i/240i/etc and bypass the painful years between 1997 and 2015 for BMW.

Look. I don't mean to be 'that guy'. But this quoted text, and the previous fixes make me wonder. WHY ARE YOU USING THIS PLATFORM? There are so many better options. Please tell us why anyone would persist with this platform given your use case for this car.

I think the question is, with a R33 GTR, using the alignment settings that that Sydneykid posted.... ....what wheels will fit in the guards without scrubbing with those settings for camber/caster. I do not know the answer to this.