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Kinkstaah

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Everything posted by Kinkstaah

  1. Anyone out there who has shift on their PC, and got disgruntled about various handling issues (such as driving on a trampoline) ... should reinstall it and download the new patch, because it makes massive improvements in overall game 'feel', making it infinitely more fun without destroying the 'realism' of the game. If anything it felt more realistic and more 'connected' to the cars you're driving if that makes any sense whatsoever. Even if it doesnt, try the patch, makes the game well worth playing afterwards.
  2. After moving back from the US to here, all chips seem lackluster. My favourite generic flavour in the US was Cheese and Sour cream, which for some reason noone in australia seems to want to make. Seen cheese and onion, and sour cream and onion, but alas...
  3. This is exactly what I was saying - Just forwarning that its best to get that "Tier2" inspection done. In my case my "Tier2" inspection WAS done, but it was done by a notorious liar who-shall-not-be-named-on-forums. (but didnt know at the time) In my example.. after I found out my "Tier2" was completely dishonest, I took it to Tier3, who coincidentally.. is Trent @ Status tuning who posted a few posts above, and gave it a good ol WTF, and it's now at RE Customs WTF'ing Ray @ Co down there, and has been for about 6 weeks now Point being though, don't take it as a be-all, end all report of EVERY possible vehicle fault, as Mr Nismoid said and I (attempted) to do.
  4. If it's a NA+T it's probably quite a valid question
  5. ...which leads me into the question regarding aftermarket ECU's and Managment with the aim of being 100% legal and whether anyone has done it before
  6. That's all well and good - How is it running with the GTS-T ECU? The issue (so I am told) is at least on my R34 is that there's no boost sensor, so the GTT ECU goes a bit haywire as it understandably cannot detect any boost. In addition I've been told in order to get it all setup reasonably okay, a loom from a R34 GTT would need to be sourced to get this all running. However, havent heard anyone comment about this in the thread, hence my questions as to whether this is a R34 issue, or specifically only an issue with the stock GTT ECU (to stay legal), or whether its just incorrect information and the original loom can be used. I'm not about to say anything against Ray & Co at RE Customs, so I doubt its the latter but found it interesting noone else had mentioned this issue about looms, and was curious as to why it's such an issue for lucky me.. and given the car has been there for about 5 weeks now waiting on a Loom I figured I'd ask the question, but I'm sure it's because I'm being a difficult prick and want the car to be legal to avoid getting done on it later, and having to make it legal anyway in the future.
  7. I'm just going to throw this out there as it wasnt mentioned (and had a bit of a conversation with N-DAWG about it via PM). Has anyone.... other than me attempted to get this done (i am as mechanically useful as a rabbit).. with the stock ECU? And in this example, I mean the GTT ECU. Given Victoria's very stringent laws regarding ECU - What have the victorians doing this done to get around this problem? Has anyone tried this - Or in my case, been forced to try this? Or is everyone else out there running a copgyback and hiding the thing?
  8. Nope. However they werent too far off the mark, I dont blame State Roads, all I am saying is that if they check out the car, and their review is positive (infact on mine it was 100% positive, there was literally nothing wrong with the vehicle) it is still very worth taking the car to a shop that specializes in the specific nuances that that car may or may not have. My issues werent that the car was full of rust when they said it wasnt, or is about to fall apart when they gave it a clean bill of health, my issues are more "skyline modification" specific which they didnt pick up, nor did I expect them to - Hence my comment that they are infact very thorough, but to get it checked by a specialist/known tuner in addition if they give you a clean bill of health. Or I could have been very unlucky - I would still recommend their services in any case.
  9. I'd just call them and ask them politely, I'm sure they'd rather you ask first and get the information, as opposed to assuming.. and then having them crack the shits IF it's not allowed for some reason.
  10. Yep that pretty much sums it up..
  11. Saw a black r32 turning right from cotham road onto glenferrie on sat, about 6pm, while I was waiting on a tram Had SAU stickers
  12. As the title suggests, I require an engine loom, from a R34 GTT. This somewhat akward request brought to you by Victoria's awesome EPA laws in relation to ECU's. Happy to pay shipping, so if you have one, know someone who has one, and you live in frigging africa, it's really no issue!
  13. Be careful though, I had State Roads inspect my car and give it an absolutely stunning report, enough so I bought the car. It'll be a few thousand dollars and a couple of months @ RE Customs and Status until this thing is what was actually advertised. So I personally would use them again; but then I'd take the car to a well known, reputable workshop to check it, again to be 100% sure.
  14. Not a bad price either actually..
  15. Except everyone you are around is running the risk of you plowing your high powered car into someones child. Slim chance? Sure. Chance of it happening ONLY due to your car having more power than you are legally allowed to drive? Even slimmer, probably astronomical. It's still higher than the allowable level of risk. Yes, you are young and dumb - these rules are put in place by people who are NOT young, and are NOT DUMB. And when it comes to safety, especially to others', "NOT DUMB" trumps everything else.
  16. Thats exactly the info I was looking for - So when it comes to NA+T forced induction rules apply, if anything, youd need a bigger exhaust than a standard turbo engine. Unless I'm completely wrong. Thanks for the thread hijack
  17. Dumb question/hijack thread but why not.. Why is this so? The guys with FI are always very big on larger 3" exhausts (or bigger) - Why is this not the case with NA engines? And while I'm here, with a NA+T - Is there a middle ground on this? What "Rule" applies, the NA rule where too big can be a decrease in performance, or the FI rule of thumb where bigger is better?
  18. Great thread, would read again. And possibly buy nikes.
  19. I admit I checked the links for pics before I got to this page and they were posted. I admit that I'm no better than 99% of other guys and would fall for the kinky goth looking chick who drives a skyline. But really, whats with the ....olollololololololo!!!!! lol!olol!OL!o O!l omgggzzzzz. Someone had to say it..
  20. Yea I had a bit of a readup, but the issue ies (as told by both RE and Status) the intercooler and piping is all wrong. Basically upgrading the brakes would work, but I'd have to get a "stock" intercooler which may or may not be actually stock, as it isnt possible to get a standard Airbox setup working with the current front mount. And 2 intake mods = EPA fail. In addition to paying extra for brakes. Their advice (which is sound, and what I am most likely doing to do) is to either a) Replace the whole engine, sell the current one, upgrade the brakes. Doable, but its a lot of stress, and will cost $$$$ in labor time undoubtably, and I have to then sell an engine with it sitting in my hawthorn apartment. Not exactly the best thing to explain to a g/f who doesnt like the car and its various stresses to begin with. b) Bring it all back to stock, sell it (gl, me.. but at least the issues are worked out..) and buy a GTT that has it all factory installed and ready to go. Or something else entirely. I'll most likely attempt to go down this road. It's a private seller (technically) who operates from a Car Workshop, who can be expected to have a responsibility to have explicit knowledge of what is being sold (in my opinion) but they didn't, or didnt tell me when I asked them. I'm sure a few people will read that and go "OHHHHHHHHHHHH.... I bet I know who that is.." but I know enough to know naming names isn't allowed on the forum. Edit: The exact wording is "The converted vehicle is in all respects identical to the production turbocharged/supercharged vehicle" I suppose that comes down to the definition of "In all respects", for emission standards I doubt they would care too much about brakes as brakes arent EPA, I wonder if this is escapable by just installing a stock intercooler and winging it in regards to the above dot point. Guess I'll have to get on the phone again
  21. Thankyou guys for the responses, I appreciate it a lot. Here's the thing - I did do a lot of digging before I bought the car, and found out that it definitely started its life as a Non-Turbo car. There were telltale signs that even I (with no prior knowledge of skylines) was able to pick up and discover and determine, so I went above and beyond your random DUHHH buyer of a car in working these things out and was able to pinpoint that the car came out as a NA, and had had an engine swap. This would explain the GT dash, the blue GT badges, etc, which OFC I used as a leverage on price due to the fact it doesnt have things like Traction control, etc. Which I could live with in a RWD. When asked about the engine, I was told it had an Engine Swap, but the replacement engine was a RB25DET NEO, which would make sense, given the person who was telling me this really should have an idea on this kind of thing, because who would replace an engine with another NA one, add a turbo, add a front mount, add a POD to a replacement NA engine, instead of doing it to a turbo engine? I mean f**k sake are people that dumb? Seems so, because yes, it's a NA engine. The car was checked mechanically by State Roads who issued a clean bill of health from the car too. One thing that helps is I also was smart enough to bring other people with me every time I was at the seller's place or inspecting/testing the car. Which means it isnt one word vs one word, but it's 3 v 1, which may or may not count for something. As for the ad, don't have it unfortunatley but I don't know if Carsales keeps this on record. There are SMS messages on the record which detail my questions and answers as well, but it would definitely be more "Misrepresentation" than anything else. It's irritating because the only real fix to get it legal is return it to NA land, which makes me the not too happy owner of a R34 NA, given that I'm 28 and was looking for a turbo makes it f**king irritating. But thankyou for the responses guys, now at least I know where I can look into.
  22. I agree on this, but my main concern is the engine in question. The issue unfortunately isnt as simple as someone accidentally putting awesome turbos on a car or an aftermarket ECU. that could cause problems with lovely yellow stickers and EPA officials. Given that the Engine number hasnt changed since the sale, and still matches what was in the car when it was purchased - does this stand for much, or is it not much of a leg to stand on. If anyone remembers my other "WTF is in this car" thread, I found the answer, (Mucho Thanko to Trent @ Status, and Ray @ RE Customs, who are doing their best to un-f*** it) and the answer is that it was/is a NA+T, when the car was sold/advertised as a GTT.
  23. Hello everyone Lets just say you're looking for a Skyline, and you're an idiot, or at least uninformed, or at least not a professional mechanic who works on Skylines all day, and you're buying a car. Is there any legal recourse for being sold a car that is not quite "as advertised", or better yet a car that is accompanied with a RWC when the car is quite obviously defectable, given that reasonable questions were asked, and answered, or rather not answered, indirectly answered or answered incorrectly, and inspections were carried out by neutral third parties. As much as "buyer beware" is a great rule of thumb, and "suck it up and move on" is an annoying option most people choose, sometimes you can be sufficiently "aware" and still get stung, and as much as being stung is crap, and sucking it up and moving is proving expensive. Is there any recourse? And if there is, what burden of proof applies? I'm sure someone around here has a bit of knowledge as to where to go, thankyou in advance to that guy.
  24. First of all, thankyou for all the replies I'll do my best to answer the points people have brought up.. I know for a fact the engine in the car has been changed, it doesnt match the engine number that's on the plate. Which is fine, I actually knew this before the same, Vicroads records has a different engine number for the car compared to what is on the plate too. The number on vicroads matches whats in the car, so that's some small comfort. I'm told it's a turbo engine, but I dont know why someone would do this in the first place then run at at 5psi, I would have thought someone doing a job like that would be hungry for more than 5psi, but I could be wrong. I'll have to have a look for this, though knowing me I'll probably end up detonating the car in an 80's style movie explosion, I'll find a way. Hence the request for more learned people to have a look lol I did some reading about this before I posted the thread, and yes - I do notice the odd stall to the point where I'm now an expert at getting the thing going quicksmart. My major worry is this, getting a random stall at a bad time then becomes a safety issue, maybe for more than just myself. I have a friend who has a R33 GTR, would this actuator work? We had a look with it, and we thought in theory it *should* work, but didnt feel too comfortable pulling it all apart and putting it all back together again, incase it didnt fit right, and I didnt have hours at the time.. Luckily the FMIC isn't visible from the outside, the car looks very stocky which I suppose is in my favour. But I know if they pop the bonnet it's going to be lots of questions that I honestly can't answer. I'm trying to avoid this The best I can explain in a forum about the BOV, is that when I back off it doesnt PSSSH overly loudly, unless I'm doing something like 75kmh in first gear, and even then, only briefly. It isnt the kind that I have heard around town that hiss when doing about 20kmh. It does have a little bit of a flutter, though, at any other speed. And here's a pic of that engine bay. I have a bigger pic if anyone wants it, this was resized as I had to send it to my email as a MMS, as I'm lacking the cable at work. As you can see it looks like a f**king mess. Oh the ability to go back in time, this is my first car in Australia (previously lived in the USA for my driving life..) hence all the queries about laws and such and such. And thanks again people, the reason I wanted to take it to a place is for peace of mind, and the knowledge that I have paid someone for their time and expertise (and perhaps a one stop shop for expertise/random parts that may or may not be needed..)
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