Kinkstaah

I mean down here I get absolutely nothing, and I'm driving around with a V8 version. I say "absolutely nothing" but the actual instances I can remember on one hand, and funnily enough were all in Sydney, not Melbourne. Specifically one very insistent guy hanging out of his window, pointing to the engine bay, then giving me an exaggerated thumbs up. That and one guy a decade ago who was an American who had clearly just seen his first R34 ever in person, and seemed surprised when I was like "Oh dude you'll see them everywhere" but this was 2010. But 99.99% of the time it gets no looks from absolutely anyone, ever. BIG CAVEAT: SEDAN

My vote is rebuild s2 engine or maybe get a neo (but expect you may need to rebuild that too). Doing an engine conversion you would have to be a true tragic nowadays and actively be aware there's better/smarter options for value.

Or buy one someone built earlier! (realistically V8 mustangs or MKV supras are great). I see people nowadays putting ZF8's into MK4's, and people putting 370z gearboxes, diffs, axles into R and S chassis and it's like.... just get a 370z at that point and mildly boost the 3.7 instead of the 2L and away we go...

Ye but that kinda proves GTSboy's point. What's 500 EUR at the end of the day? The END of the day being post install/setup/use. The Blackline could be great. BC Coilovers are pretty great too. "Cheap" alternatives can turn out to be well worth the money and be new bang for buck options. The DIY and cutting half shafts option though.... less so. I'm a big fan of buy once, cry once, which has resulted in me doing everything a large number of times anyway lol.

Something something, I wouldn't cut corners on diffs. Just sounds like a headache waiting to happen. I'd just get Quaife, cry once, then enjoy forever.

TH1 looks better than TV2, LXO and JWO.

In all seriousness what needs to happen is an amount of documentation as to "What it takes to fix" "Damage" is super subjective. Something may be 1mm out, or utterly unrepairable. The people who would sign off on it should have been able to advise exactly what it needs to be, and where that item is, and who can sign off on it. Example: "Car not square by measurement" It's still rough luck to get sent to "Failed Roadworthy Jail", first I've ever really heard of that. May be due to car coming from interstate.

It sounds like the dreams have come true! (I am unable to resist)

I'd say post the dyno sheet so people can look on it, but you already know all dynos are different. I mean 26psi on Petrol/Gasoline seems pretty up there, and if you aren't revving it out then unless your torque is really nosing over, then of course more RPM will equal more HP. If you think E85 will make the difference between 533whp and 600whp the answer is absolutely yes. Given the only thing that makes power is the turbo, and you've got plenty of boost in there, it all seems semi reasonable to me. Curious to see what other people say though. The one thing that never lies is MPH at the drag strip. See what you trap. (ok, it can lie a bit with altitude and conditions etc)

@Dose Pipe Sutututu get a slice of the BMW life going on here. This is what, $6k for... fixing some leaks with some OEM quality gaskets/lines, to fix up OEM gasket/lines which were failing/failed?

Thank you, this was comprehensive and I consider myself an expert on the subject now. Regards, The Internet.

I mean technically you don't. And you don't need a wideband if your tune is good. But this is what I was getting at. It's really hard to tune something to that degree. Narrowbands are used to take a 'somewhat accurate map' into stoich, like a boost controller, and you're really just tuning how much 'work' it needs to do, with the aim of 'Better tune, Narrowband/Wideband has to compensate less' But anyone who has ever done something like tuned one day, then DARED to drive on a day where it's 5 degrees colder/warmer, or in a slightly hillier region, or slightly higher altitude will look at their tune and "If only there was some kind of device that could compensate on the fly and hit a target to account for...." And now you know why Narrowbands, Widebands, and things like MAF's exist.

I have an Innovate, but it's a LC-2. I want to update to a 4.9 sensor... but the 4.2 sensor refuses to die. So considering it's that old, and I'm still using the 4.2 sensor means that I think that not all Innovates are created equally, or sensor position matters a lot. I have a brand new 4.9 sensor sitting in a box waiting for the day... but..

Also you're fixated on the terminology here. "Very rich" isn't a measurement. Very rich relative to what? It makes perfect sense for a tuner to say "On boost, you need to run very rich" if the Tuner is comparing "very rich" relative to Stoich, and they'd be accurate. 11.5 is very rich relative to 14.7. Because anyone here knows that 14.7 on boost is not possible, terms like "Rich" and "Very Rich" and "Very Lean" and "Lean" typically revolve around/on top of the assumption that we're all running richer than stoich (14.7/lambda 1.0) to run any boost at all. If you're talking boost, 13.5 on boost is very lean, but it's still richer than stoich. 10.0 is Very Rich, and Very Rich relative to stoich. These terms are very stupid when not defined. Get the numbers, and I suspect this guy giving "bad advice" is actually giving reasonable advice, but you're fixated on words and definitions and stuff instead of getting the actual data. I reckon old mate is probably tuning to 11.8 or something on boost and all is well. As dose said, fouling plugs is usually a symptom of too much fuel OFF heavy load. How would you know for sure? GET A WIDEBAND. It's near impossible for a tuner to properly dial in off-fuel loads while using a dyno. They get it roughly in the ballpark with an assumption that a guy with a tuned perfomance car will change their plugs every 5000km anyway, so the distinction between plugs fouling at 7000km instead of 10,000km is not a concern.

It's also worth mentioning you can get custom valved suspension revalved. My OG ones from SK above did eventually start leaking after many years, and I contacted Bilstein Australia on FB who directed me to Sydney Shocks who repaired and revalved mine to my what I asked for, after they had a chat/consult about the handling behaviour I wanted in the shocks. Lets just say they ended up pretty different, and they did exactly what I asked of them. So the expertise is definitely there!

But a Skyline is not a OEM hardware flash tune. Skyline mods pretty much START at Stage .. 8 or something like that. To "fix up" a tune you have to first familiarize yourself with WTF is going on. Any tuner will realistically have a look and see if the baseline actually makes sense. If it does, then yes of course they will use that as a base and spend time tweaking and modifying it. If it's way too far from what they are used to they will start from scratch, but treating the current tune like a baseline is as good a place as any to start as long as it makes sense to do so. However it is a CYA technique. They do not expect that the tune to be 30 seconds of work away from being perfect, and they have a paying customer with a complaint that they very much want to resolve. To do that properly they quote high and will go over everything to make the thing work as well as possible. It would be crazy for them to assume that they can make a fast tweak to fix a tune made by someone else on a car they don't know. It could also not be a software problem as well.

I should restate, after watching the video I feel bad about my 'Maybe' vote and want to revoke it. My 'Maybe' was basically dependent on scientific testing to know for sure.... and now I know for sure. So just don't. I don't doubt that some time in the future there will be good tyres that come out of there like pretty much any developing place.

I want to say that I would consider it for a commuter-only-cheap-as-chips-car. Because the floor for handling in 99.9% of performance is "Can I emergency stop, probably in the wet, once". If there's tyres that can do that, that's all tyres really need to do. There's also a video of Tyre Reviews man plowing through a human shaped obstacle, so perhaps they can't do that task well enough :p

That's the kicker for me anyway, wrinkle paint on interior pieces seems weird. You could probably re-texture it by pressing something in there, but at some point you could get the whole thing flocked or lined with cloth or some other option. Sadly the scratches on mine are really pretty severe. They happen when people take the head unit out. The head unit/center carrier 'thing' has some wild edges on it that just mutilate the plastic when people are in the process of taking it out/removing plugs and twisting it this way and that to disconnect it all, or reconnect it all.

The problem I've found is that these panels have a texture to them. So sanding them removes the texture, which means you'd have to re-sand it all, and re-texture it all in some uniform fashion. I believe there's various kinds of plastic fillers that are probably well suited for this, but I only ever noted it in the "Doable but pretty damn hard basket". Plus, my scratches are on the passenger side :p

Sorry yea - I know 93 = 98 = Premium, I only said Hello USA because that's how people use the term, nobody down under refers to anything 93 But I was wrong, and it was Canada, aye. So hello, better USA.

None of those are important and you should save $ and accept sad and depressed life, which is what a SUV is. Get from A to B, and be miserable. It's the JDM way. (the other alternative is get from A to B, maybe)

Another rule: No SUV is cool. Buy the most boring reliable one available, always. If it's boring and shit, that is what a SUV is.

Ye, Toyota finally settled by the 2JZ vs RB25/26 feud by having BMW run in with a steel chair :p