Kinkstaah

Why didn't you buy the one I originally linked in QLD which was about 18k and in massively better condition with about 30k of tastefulmods holyshitmygodjesuschristman.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1394082951286916/ I have personally driven this car, lowball and buy :D. Save yourself all the time on the obvious upgrades later, which you will want to do, and end up costing much more than this. Save this post so you can refer back to it later when you tinker on it and do the same mods and spend more money.

Yeah but: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/224676450724341/?ref=marketplace_pdp_share Add wheels of choice like:

https://www.my105.com/search/details/2001-holden-commodore-ute/0c25dc51-94c1-4b31-8356-1089488d08c3?source=SEARCH_RESULT You should buy or do this instead. About MX5's, the smart money is on the NC, specifically the NC2 if your budget goes that far, and with MX5 pricing that's pretty much where they go. Occasionally you see them pop up with tasteful mods like suspension and such, but the NC2 is the quiet sleeper of the range in terms of overall goodness.

Yeah truthfully it seems like the headlight supports for the ALTIA and S2 should be the same, but they aren't. I can only guess that the grill area of the Altia bar is different to the grill area of the S2 bar. Either that or it's due to the S1 bar having an angle up to the center bar that the Altia doesn't, or something. That said, I recently bought an Altia bar myself, and I fit it over the S1 brackets and thought "Yes, this will all work fine" so even as I doubt my own words as I post, I also daresay you'll be okay.

I should also say that the while they are different the only parts that matter are the center headlight supports and center bar from S1 to S2. The center bar will work, but the S1 has holes that clips go through into the S1 bumper. So if you were super cheap you could simply drill the S2 bar. Same thing with the side/wings. They have slightly different 'clips' but can be made to work. The center headlight brackets however, cannot. This is also where the GTR differs, which has a different center bar, and different headlight supports (to either GTT system), it also has different 'wing' headlight supports which is what I am calling under the headlight. However those CAN be made to work with the GTT Reo for a GTR front bar by a small spacer and a drill/tapping a thread into the reo because the bolt positions are slightly different. So people only really need the center brackets to go between GTT S1, GTT S2, and GTR if you are happy to do some tinkering.

350-400kw will not keep that basically stock motor basically stock very long, especially for track only use. It will decide to need a rebuild pretty quickly. I'd go smaller, and not cheap out with a Pulsar item based on older tech. Get a G25 550/660. Just better in every way. Don't think about changing a turbo until AFTER you change your injectors (S15 injectors x6? What CC are those?) and coils/fuel pump. They won't keep up with any aftermarket turbo.

What if I told you it fit easier than the RB...... Realistically it's a lot of work, but suprisingly similar IF you didn't have a R33 with literally all of the supporting accessories and electronics and manifolds and cooling ready to go. If you had literally a bare engine bay and no transmission, it'd be an apt comparison to make. If you just want to make 280-300kw all day just rebuild the RB and get a modern turbo and enjoy life.

I mean nah, lets be honest it's significantly worse. BMW's are absolutely not the same age, replacements are not the same level of robustness. Most would say an E36 is more solid than an E90X and I would still say an E36 is a little more rickety than your equivalent R chassis over time. BMW pretty much have a huge void between E36 and anything with a B58/ZF onward. I kinda get the appeal if they work, but they just don't. I get that the vibe is "do a track day in executive comfort" but in all seriousness, a VE Commodore is as comfortable and certainly more solid* around a track, and they are hardly up there in the high list of "Excellent track cars". See also: Barra Turbo with coilovers or _something_. I mean a great deal of these cars/choices are always irrational, but I at least try to stay rational, or at least have some rational argument why I did X and not Y :D. My pet peeve is irrational badge snobbery. There is no reason to buy a Luxury SUV when anything from Kia will do the job better, and cheaper. I know someone who has a twin turbo diesel X5 making 400kw or whatever and as soon as he opens his mouth I say nothing but "You are an idiot who has wasted your money" and tell him to buy a Tesla Model X/Y as it is superior to anything he will do with that car. (he does not like this, but he deserves it, just trust me..) But Prank seems like a nice guy. I want him to sell this 335i before sadness kicks in more and buy something far happier at the track, like an 86, or a Megane RS, or an Evo, or even save the money on mods and buy a 440i/240i/etc and bypass the painful years between 1997 and 2015 for BMW.

Look. I don't mean to be 'that guy'. But this quoted text, and the previous fixes make me wonder. WHY ARE YOU USING THIS PLATFORM? There are so many better options. Please tell us why anyone would persist with this platform given your use case for this car.

I think the question is, with a R33 GTR, using the alignment settings that that Sydneykid posted.... ....what wheels will fit in the guards without scrubbing with those settings for camber/caster. I do not know the answer to this.

I mean down here I get absolutely nothing, and I'm driving around with a V8 version. I say "absolutely nothing" but the actual instances I can remember on one hand, and funnily enough were all in Sydney, not Melbourne. Specifically one very insistent guy hanging out of his window, pointing to the engine bay, then giving me an exaggerated thumbs up. That and one guy a decade ago who was an American who had clearly just seen his first R34 ever in person, and seemed surprised when I was like "Oh dude you'll see them everywhere" but this was 2010. But 99.99% of the time it gets no looks from absolutely anyone, ever. BIG CAVEAT: SEDAN

My vote is rebuild s2 engine or maybe get a neo (but expect you may need to rebuild that too). Doing an engine conversion you would have to be a true tragic nowadays and actively be aware there's better/smarter options for value.

Or buy one someone built earlier! (realistically V8 mustangs or MKV supras are great). I see people nowadays putting ZF8's into MK4's, and people putting 370z gearboxes, diffs, axles into R and S chassis and it's like.... just get a 370z at that point and mildly boost the 3.7 instead of the 2L and away we go...

Ye but that kinda proves GTSboy's point. What's 500 EUR at the end of the day? The END of the day being post install/setup/use. The Blackline could be great. BC Coilovers are pretty great too. "Cheap" alternatives can turn out to be well worth the money and be new bang for buck options. The DIY and cutting half shafts option though.... less so. I'm a big fan of buy once, cry once, which has resulted in me doing everything a large number of times anyway lol.

Something something, I wouldn't cut corners on diffs. Just sounds like a headache waiting to happen. I'd just get Quaife, cry once, then enjoy forever.

TH1 looks better than TV2, LXO and JWO.

In all seriousness what needs to happen is an amount of documentation as to "What it takes to fix" "Damage" is super subjective. Something may be 1mm out, or utterly unrepairable. The people who would sign off on it should have been able to advise exactly what it needs to be, and where that item is, and who can sign off on it. Example: "Car not square by measurement" It's still rough luck to get sent to "Failed Roadworthy Jail", first I've ever really heard of that. May be due to car coming from interstate.

It sounds like the dreams have come true! (I am unable to resist)

I'd say post the dyno sheet so people can look on it, but you already know all dynos are different. I mean 26psi on Petrol/Gasoline seems pretty up there, and if you aren't revving it out then unless your torque is really nosing over, then of course more RPM will equal more HP. If you think E85 will make the difference between 533whp and 600whp the answer is absolutely yes. Given the only thing that makes power is the turbo, and you've got plenty of boost in there, it all seems semi reasonable to me. Curious to see what other people say though. The one thing that never lies is MPH at the drag strip. See what you trap. (ok, it can lie a bit with altitude and conditions etc)

@Dose Pipe Sutututu get a slice of the BMW life going on here. This is what, $6k for... fixing some leaks with some OEM quality gaskets/lines, to fix up OEM gasket/lines which were failing/failed?

Thank you, this was comprehensive and I consider myself an expert on the subject now. Regards, The Internet.

I mean technically you don't. And you don't need a wideband if your tune is good. But this is what I was getting at. It's really hard to tune something to that degree. Narrowbands are used to take a 'somewhat accurate map' into stoich, like a boost controller, and you're really just tuning how much 'work' it needs to do, with the aim of 'Better tune, Narrowband/Wideband has to compensate less' But anyone who has ever done something like tuned one day, then DARED to drive on a day where it's 5 degrees colder/warmer, or in a slightly hillier region, or slightly higher altitude will look at their tune and "If only there was some kind of device that could compensate on the fly and hit a target to account for...." And now you know why Narrowbands, Widebands, and things like MAF's exist.

I have an Innovate, but it's a LC-2. I want to update to a 4.9 sensor... but the 4.2 sensor refuses to die. So considering it's that old, and I'm still using the 4.2 sensor means that I think that not all Innovates are created equally, or sensor position matters a lot. I have a brand new 4.9 sensor sitting in a box waiting for the day... but..

Also you're fixated on the terminology here. "Very rich" isn't a measurement. Very rich relative to what? It makes perfect sense for a tuner to say "On boost, you need to run very rich" if the Tuner is comparing "very rich" relative to Stoich, and they'd be accurate. 11.5 is very rich relative to 14.7. Because anyone here knows that 14.7 on boost is not possible, terms like "Rich" and "Very Rich" and "Very Lean" and "Lean" typically revolve around/on top of the assumption that we're all running richer than stoich (14.7/lambda 1.0) to run any boost at all. If you're talking boost, 13.5 on boost is very lean, but it's still richer than stoich. 10.0 is Very Rich, and Very Rich relative to stoich. These terms are very stupid when not defined. Get the numbers, and I suspect this guy giving "bad advice" is actually giving reasonable advice, but you're fixated on words and definitions and stuff instead of getting the actual data. I reckon old mate is probably tuning to 11.8 or something on boost and all is well. As dose said, fouling plugs is usually a symptom of too much fuel OFF heavy load. How would you know for sure? GET A WIDEBAND. It's near impossible for a tuner to properly dial in off-fuel loads while using a dyno. They get it roughly in the ballpark with an assumption that a guy with a tuned perfomance car will change their plugs every 5000km anyway, so the distinction between plugs fouling at 7000km instead of 10,000km is not a concern.