Kinkstaah

I mean... what movement do you mean? There's no free lunch here. If you take the slop out of bushes then it will get transmitted to the road. The reason drift cars have stiff everything is so that there's nothing absorbing anything between the engine and the road, but make no mistake they have less traction due to it. So when you say 'movement' if you want the side to kick out less, then this won't help. It'll potentially make it more predictable for the driver (you) though.

How is it "ASAP" before the wheels have even been made? If someone is out there making the wheels they should have diagrams of spacing for brake calipers and all other stuff for people in the very first run of a set of rims to consider. Anyway, here's a link from this forum with R33 GTR wheels on a R32 GTST. And here's a post from you, in that thread, with the same question. They won't poke out the front. They're 2mm further in from the fender. Get 18x9 +30 all round and call it a day. Or 18x9 +28 all round and call it a day. Then it'll look the same. If the +30 set and the +28 set have different faces, well, that's when you get into asking them for diagrams for brake caliper clearance.

Yeah, but... how much skinner is it? 5mm? 10mm?

This was relating to R33/R34. I don't know with regards to R32's. There's probably some difference between R33/R34 and R32 that is known, but not by me :p

Wouldn't it be of the power range where a larger cam is more beneficial that is not VCT friendly? Generally speaking I'm ALL for smaller cams and VCT, but I am not making 1000HP in a time attack car. This could actually be an application where a larger camshaft that isn't VCT capable may actually have a use case.

>complete amateur >1:24 at Winton laggy massive HP RWD R32 I dunno about the first part I would argue this use case probably doesn't need VCT, won't be in the rev range that it would ever be active!

Ah, LS time then.

Amayama are good and ship stuff fairly frequently. There's also Kudos and Taarks in Australia, but people rarely stock these things unless they are super common, so buying random bits and bobs (while we still can) is a bit of the R chassis lifestyle. So at least you've figured out what it does, it opens up on full lock to counter the load of the pump dragging your idle down. If that's not a big issue you may never want to fix it. If your OCD kicks in you may want to fix it just because. But now you know what it is, and how it works, and whether you need to fix it.

Playing devil's advocate, upping the fuel pump severely while using stock gear can actually raise the fuel pressure because it overpowers the reg. The thing is, to really confirm this, you install a FPR gauge, and usually that also comes with a regulator.... so nobody knows whether this actually is overpowering the stock regulator or not. Suppose that scenario is not a stock car tho.

You have a series 2. That is a normal series 2 bumper. It has that design for GT, GTV and GT-T trims. The GT-T Series 2 bumper will have a vent on the passenger side, which is where the intercooler is mounted. Here's a pic from your own thread. If you want a S1 bumper, you will also need to buy the headlight support brackets as they are understandably different. If you want to fit a front mount intercooler one day, PM ME because you need to cut up some brackets from the OEM reinforcement bar. I would love to have an unmolested reinforcement bar and you can have my pre-cut one :p

Okay it seems there's a slight design difference there with the hex which will do nothing at all. The ones I had were the EFI Solutions round ones. I was able ratchet the nuts with huge torque and they were flat and FIRMLY into it. You could say they became part of the lid, given they physically melted into it. It doesn't get any more firmly attached than that! The heat generated is enough to melt the plastic insulators. I agree, you would think Walbro would use wiring in their own pump with enough gauge to handle the heat their own product creates, but it just doesn't seem to be the case long term. I suppose it's possible that mine only shifted towards the end of their 10 year life before melting through, but that said... it can shift again, a nut can come loose again. The solution is a different type of plug, that is held in mechanically and can't shake loose and self-create a bad connection.

These are the ones that I melted. You need the FPR kit, nothing else will work. :p

I mean, if the motor stock and you have a boost leak, (like a pipe has come off etc) you will barely able to move. I don't mean "drives like a 2002 corolla" I mean barely able to move the car at *all* That gauge is (mostly) normal. I say mostly because with a stock turbo and stock everything working normally, you'll hit that green line very easily/quickly. It's not like it will only finally reach there at 5000+RPM after slowly building to it. It it *does* behave like that, then you have a leak. If it doesn't, and the boost gauge is more or less pinned there any time you're on the throttle from ~2000rpm upward, then this is normal - the cars run 7psi stock. That's right between 0 and +1KG/CM (which is 14.22psi) If it's a manual, they do 0-100 back in 1998 of about ~6.1s to 100. The autos are about 7s.

Lol. I mean. Yeah you should hear some degree of turbo sound, which is exactly what you think it sounds like, compressed air moving places. Are you actually making boost? Your car has a boost gauge. Is it indicating it is building boost, or not?

FYI. I have a R34, not a R33. I noticed that the stock gauge would be middle at 104C. Then completely pegged to H at 105. It moves gradually between middle and hot, it physically takes time to move. (same as it takes time to move from cold to OK) It only has 3 actual settings, "Too cold", "OK" and "Too Hot"

It sounds like a misfire. RB's go surprisingly good on 5cyl. The easiest way is to have your car idling, and unplug a coilpack or an injector and see/find which one doesn't make the sound change. That's your problem cylinder. The consult cable means you don't have to actually unplug stuff, can turn it off electronically.

Hey OP, wheels look good, previous owner had the right idea, drive and enjoy car

I also found that entirely dead ones with maybe a little cord showing sound exactly as loud as brand new ones.

I recently got 15,000km from my RS4's! And got a new set recently. By recently, it... was just over a year ago now. Shut up, I have reasons as to why these tyres are still near new. Anyway with regards to the previous ones, pressure them up. Drive them around gently on the street at ~36 psi and they do tend to last longer. I don't know how many track days I had them for, I want to say a couple but obviously that varies a significant amount for a lot of variables. A friend got 35,000-40,000KM out of his AD08R (!??!?!?!) and his tip was to raise the pressures on them for road driving which helped in my case, but obviously the other big factor is driving with the fuel economy mindset of someone who runs higher pressures in your tyres too.

TBF, I had 9.5 +27 on the front (and rear) of a 34 which most consider to be much the same as a R33. It fits exactly where a 18x9+30 otherwise would, if you run the same size tyre on either rim. I had a 265 on the front of mine and the tyre sidewall on the inner is the limiting factor. I ran like -1.5 camber. I am putting 9.5 +30 into the 'feasible' camp. Will still be 18mm inset from the 18x9.5 +12 on the back though. I suspect one of these wheels is not the sizes in the original post, or it looks wonky. Pictures plz, OP, I must know lol

When the going gets weird... measure!

The offset doesn't really have anything to do with dish directly. I mean it kind of does but it also doesn't, it's only tangenial. The offset is purely how much offset (get it) the mounting face is from the CENTER of the width of the rim. I.e, the mounting face would be directly in the middle of the 9.5inches if it was a 18x9.5 ET0 rim. Given it is a +12 rim, the mounting face is 12mm further away from the center (to the outside of the car). Your fronts are +30, so the mounting face is 30mm further away from the center (to the outside of the car). I would wager this doesn't look right, because most skylines generally have the same with guards front to back. So I'd think your fronts look significantly more sunken in than your rears. I'd wager by about 18mm, or so.

Yes! Finally, now we're talking

I want someone to make side skirt extensions. But by 'extensions' I mean running from one side of the car to the other, forming a flat undertray, maybe one that runs to the front and rear of the car too