Kinkstaah

Yeah in my case I took my current wheels (18x9+30) and simply made some measurements to add +20mm to the outside edge of both. I also noticed the inside edge of the rears has about 30-50mm of space. The front has like 0.1mm to the arm as it stands. This leads to 18x10 +17 at the front, and something weird like 18x11+35 at the back. No wheels exist in these measurements which is why I'll have to go custom - And definitely measure and test some other wheels first. By my maths 18x10.5+15 at the front should absolutely poke. Yet it's a common size for the front of 33/34 GTR's, it could be: 1) it needs more low and more camber to fit 2) the rim actually pokes in all these setups 3) the geometry is different Or all of the above. Which is why I'm waiting before I buy things...

People are confusing boost threshold and boost response. (including OP). G30-770 would be more suited to 600hp as well as above, which means an EFR7670 would be even better

Finally, my prophecy is paying off. (also this does apply to other TC systems as well)

I'd still choose an EFR over a G35-900. That on a 2.5 is just going to be dogshit lazy. Someone did do an EFR vs G Series when it came to transient response and the EFR did beat it out, however the comparison was on a 1.8L MX5 and not in the range these turbos are. But I'd still be surprised if a G35-900 is more responsive than an EFR8474 or the likes. Without googling it I don't actually know if wheel sizes/lb-min are comparable. There could be a closer match. I don't mean boost threshold, I mean response.

I had a 2.8, with an EFR, the most responsive turbo on the market. Then I decided I wanted more response so I added a further 2.9L of displacement and got rid of the turbo. ... probably cheaper than building a RB26 with a bottom end that can reliably take 600hp, a turbo kit, whatever kit... and VCAM as well...

So, after some delicate sandblasting I now have a windscreen again. It's funny how new windscreens look different. It has a big shade band and looks a little blue through it. Lucky for me (rare) the maximum damage of that rust was really just some light pitting. It's time to just drive/enjoy and wait for the painting man to become available which is supposedly next Jan (at some point)

It's ~20mm on each side over the GTT. It depends on your ride height and whether you are cutting fenders at the back to fit the kit, because the inside metal guard will remain the same dimensions as stock, unless it is pulled out, or cut out. Further to that, it really depends on what you consider "good specs" to be. The real answer is measure. I've got the same kit and the same plans - And I've taken measurements... but I won't be taking final measurements until the bodykit is actually on the car, and I can measure it while it's on the ground because +2mm in theory may not be 2mm in practice, and that can ruin everything.

Pilot Sport 5's is a really solid road tyre. They get a bit overdone for hardcore track work, but given where this thread started it's definitely gone in the right direction!!

Also: This arrived! (it will now gather dust for many months after being repackaged up)

I'm waiting for HFM. I still have sets of pads (current road ones which do not fit properly, and the track ones which do) for my Attakd/Stock setup currently. It's entirely possible to be able to get more, but it's definitely not as easy as "Oh I have a 370z, give me pads for 370z". When I spoke to HFM about it, they advised the Z1 won't be exactly the same as the R34 due to the offsets being slightly different? They also stated that the threads in the Z1 are aluminium, whereas HFM use a stainless steel helicoil insert which I'm a fan of. That and they modelled their kit on the R34 specifically, which I have... in Melbourne.. where I am. I was just jumping on this before I have to buy a new set of rings for the front kit, which while they are a bit heat warped, aren't that 'worn'. But now I have two sets of rotors and 3 sets of brake pads for the 370z Akebonos. So basically I'm set for life in regards to brake consumables now.

So nothing has happened because nothing needed to happen. I am waiting on parts to arrive for bodykit reasons, and as we all know, this takes a very long time. But everyone likes some misadventures, so here they are. I had a mysterious squeak appear from the engine bay. I thought the worst and thought it was cam chirp or something along those lines, but figured I would check the belts first as that's what everyone says to do. This belt was 2500km old. I've replaced it with a slightly less-torsioned belt this time. I had heard you needed to be unable to flex a belt more than 45 deg, so now I know it's "About 90" it hopefully will last longer? I also snapped my key in half opening the boot. When replacing the serpentine belt, I noticed this windscreen issue too. Not to worry! The belt is no squealing, I had 5 spare keys, and insurance will cover 1 free glass. .... so it became time to call the people responsible for panels and paint very urgently. Good thing Optus wasn't having a nationwide outage that day when I was stuck outside with a car with no windscreen. Luckily the chain of "I know a guy" found a body repair shop that can clean this out/sort it/paint it/warranty it courtesy of a group of old gents with a bunch of bare metal restored holdens-in-progress at a very very fair price. So end of next week - may be back on the road with a windscreen and less rust. I did also talk 'Workshop 2' into accepting the car with paint and panels for early next year. This arrived with my new future front bar for free, which was nice! I also bought a brake kit on advise from Dose, because I was somewhat tired of trying to find brake pads for my Attakd brake kit (which is not identical to G2/Ksport) With extreme patience (and paint thinners and a toothbrush) I was able to take these: To this: No, I did not respray them. Yes it would have been probably more sensible to sandblast them and repaint them. But after awhile I was just happy to be able to do it by removing the later of awful red paint the previous owner had attempted to paint it all with now if HFM would release their brackets, it'd be great.

If the unread feature was working, I would have seen that thread! (I searched for my own previous thread)

@PranK this has become re-broken my brother in christ. I believe it happened in the last ~week or so.

The Nismo clutches are amazing. Get the twin plate if you plan to go over 300kw. The Nismo single plate's max is rated at just about 309kw/415whp.

Off topic (but also somewhat on topic as I have a URAS kit in my living room) If nothing sticks nor bonds to this, how exactly does it get fitted to a car/blended in with other panels (in the case of their rear overfenders and the like)

This is just inefficient. Yes yes, its a bit silly me having the N/A car saying "But to have an engine without a turbo is just inefficient and dumb". But I'm standing by it, and we're all various levels of dumb anyway Would make more sense to have a high revving N/A Honda in there.

Why would you do something like that? Someone actively wanting a N/A RB is just the smoothest brain take on earth, cmon man you deserve better :p

I have the nismo leather knob which I would also be happy to sell for $5500.

Frank and Michael are still around, and are still great. However, like most people who are still around and still great, they're very busy. So you may have a 3 month wait purely because of the backlog of things they already have on the go. I always say a blown up RB is a 1 year process :D. But to be fair, my experience with Headspec was quite a lot of waiting until they got to my job, then when they did - it was completed in a couple of weeks. So I suppose there's plenty of work for competent engine builders out there.

TBH in my experience with the Jaycar module was a little different. I was using it in the middle of the car ECU to the cluster. It worked, but it only kicked in at about 30-40kmh. So anything under that would read 0kmh. It was also delayed. It may work for something int he same family that it just needs to do something like 'halve' The dakota digital one worked perfectly in my application, and can be used for many, many, many different inputs and outputs.

I did say it'll take awhile - This is why I put the V8 in, going through blocks like it's going out of style it became economical and far more modular going forward. It is after all a niche, Japan only car that arrived here in VERY limited numbers by people grey importing them. An engine explosion in a RB is about a 1 year sentence on average, no matter what scenario you're actually in. I repeat:

TIL (I have an adjustable fpr...)

I think the problem is that paying $500 each guard for a piece of plastic is a bit odd. Given 100% of wheel setups carve big holes in them anyway. One would think there could be an aftermarket alternative that provides more clearance or is cheaper or is made out of aluminium or some shit (there's not)

never miss a chance to do an upgrade when you need a repair.....

I surely do not know, but I want to know because I will have the same problem with my R34 soon. One would think someone has made/could make/has solid advice for how to go about making these before I just make them out of something wildly unsuitable and get sad about the whole scenario.