Kinkstaah

I mean, this is literally one of the main reasons I did the swap back then.... haverb30blockpricesgoneupbysimilarvalues?

I'd guess it's tricker being in Canada. these days people snapped up the R34 GTT boxes that Nissan reproduced as they were still available new for awhile. You may have luck with a CD009 350/370z gearbox being USA based. Surely easier* to find than a R33/R34 manual gearbox. It'll be fine (ish) under stock power, but if you want to upgrade things its worth doing the research and collecting parts in advance. Luckily there's not a lot of smarts to contend with and your upgrade options are limited only by your budget, really. You'd want to read up on the wiring differences between the N/A and GTT with regards to the autobox. If you can read the workshop diagram you will be okay as it's definitely been covered before. If you're going to need a shop to do it though, it may be tricker unless there happens to be a local R chassis shop in Ontario or nearby.

DO NOT USE THE JAYCAR MODULE. IT IS SHIT, UPDATES SLOW AND IS SHIT. I HAVE USED IT. I HAVE AN ALTERNATIVE. BUY THE DAKOTA DIGITAL ITEM LINKED BELOW INSTEAD. https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1192/mode=prod/prd1192.htm IT CAN BE FOUND IN PLACES. DO NOT BUY THE JAYCAR ITEM. IF YOU DO, YOU WILL RETURN TO THIS POST AND BUY THE DAKOTA ITEM ANYWAY. THE JAYCAR ITEM IS CHEAP BECAUSE IT IS SHIT. This sentence is not in bold and in capitals to underline the fact the above formatting is completely intentional.

Just... lower the boost? There's no reason you really have to upgrade the turbo. Oh no, you have to set your rev limit to 6000 because you're making 315kw at 6000 now instead of 7500. Remember the size of the OEM turbo on OEM displacement? It doesn't magically kill itself the first time anyone revs it out to 7500rpm in stock configuration with stock boost either. I haven't done the math (and I can't tbh) but I'd wager a RB30 with your highflow has a "bigger turbo" relative to it's displacement than a RB25DET has a non-highflow turbo. Truthfully there's quite a few options here. I know what it's like to panic and get angry about it but there is no fast fix for this. So take time and think about where you want to end up and what you want to end up with. It's expensive now, but you'll actually be paying for this months after christmas most likely. There's time to save. Your bottom end that is mentioned above, but 1-1500 for machining, and 1-3k parts, still getting near that 5k mark. Similar to old mate selling his 25det bottom end for 5k. Getting someone to assemble it obviously costs more and is only as good as who you trust to do it. You also don't know if someone is going to sell a motor a month from now (for example). Take a step back, breathe, it happens. It sucks, but it happens.

How dare you, I've been through this pain so many times to make it as simple as possible lol. I'd still think a RB30 is going to be as simple as a RB25 bottom end. Surely? Right? People lose their minds over a 200cc stroker. Why not 500cc? This is gonna take more time and more money than you expect, no matter the option you go with. I reckon no matter what you do it's gonna end up being mid 2024 before it is running again. Why not do that with a 3L :D. How much more _is_ it? Surely worth investigating.

The joke was Dose was attempting to sell his complete car, and I joined in too. My gut feeling is to tell you to actually go RB30 if you get the head cleaned up. Never turn down an upgrade opportunity when something breaks... it makes it more bearable 😛

Why would he buy that specific RB25DET NEO when he can buy the solution to constantly exploding RB25DET Neos... with similar extras? 😛

Pull the head, then if it truly is okay, RB30 with a mysteriously similar engine number to your current windowed block. Failing that, just buy someone else's car and part out. You'll probably save money, given how well modified cars actually sell vs stock.

I'm with you 100%. The SR20 was using 256 degree poncams, and no matter what turbo you threw at them, they always had this curve to them. If we have to choose "Joy for our $" then I'm with you on a RB running a relatively open 7163 on 98 and loving life and just turning off instagram and pretending it is 2007 where this would be an incredibly insane setup. I think the 7670 is too big for a 25. It was great on a 28 but lets be real, I was running 19psi on E85. I was barely stretching it's legs. I did one or two aborted runs (splitfires were giving up) and I was making 430+kw at 5000rpm. That all sounds good on paper, but the truth is it's well beyond where anyone would want to really run a fun, street, usable, daily, repeatable thing on an unopened motor. To make the most of this thing, you will be running it close to max RPM. It's a 500KW turbo. Everything is a consumable at 500kw, built or not. I remember Scotty in the past talking about how the GTX3071 was a better unit than the GTX3076 for this reason too. There was also a lot of rumblings favoring the GTX3576 over the GTX3076/GTX3582 too. People love running things at 11/10ths for exhibition purposes, and then that filters down into "You should get this result all the time, forever". Then people run them at less boost, on 98 etc and suddenly they are a bit laggy. Well no shit, if you are running 13psi there instead of old mate running 28psi there on E85 then you will make less power, and be in a different efficiency island as well. It is similar to people buying Hypergears and then not replicating Tao's setup. I'd almost say get the open T3, bolt it to the stock manifold and see how you go for simplicity's sake. As always, think about what you want, then get the turbo for that application. People do not always speak long term about how these choices go out for them. Choose the least painful option, and it'll still be plenty painful enough!

Btw, the Nismo twin plate I had back in the day was entirely drivable on the road once you got used to it. It just has a very narrow bite point. No, it's not as easy as a single plate. Oh yes, it's more expensive, too but you can live with it and learn it and then it's fine. Such is the ballad of 320+kw.

You can always turn the boost down. This is why I say 320kw is the sweet spot for basically everything. Once you go above that you have to do effectively the same things for 350kw (reliably) as you do for 650kw ("reliably")

Here's the SR20 with the EFR7163. As you can see it's falling over up top, but he has some cams that were geared for response. I do think if you're living in 98 land and don't overspin this thing that it'd still do the job, and if you want to eliminate "my current turbo is a bit laggy" then well yeah, this'll do the job. Or.. G25-550, for even more compact turbo-that-fits-low-mounted-but-more-transient-lag.

I only had the one, and it didn't have a divided pulse to the gate. Whether this is true twinscroll or not, or whether it helped or not, or whether it made it entirely useless or not, I just don't know (and will never know) This was my dyno result though (on E85) Either will work, and the boring (but true) answer is your motor is going to last longer making less power. So you can tell yourself you went the smaller turbo for more reliability Given your engine bay was the same size as mine, I really did not like mounting the 7670. Even with proper 'bolt on' kits, I was never happy with how lines ran, how close hot things were to hot other things, how close wiring was (which melted), and blowing up my aircon line multiple times (yes), it was honestly a bit of a pain in the ass running high mount. Mind you, I was still running the standard TB. If you've removed aircon, you may have a FFP, your setup could be a little different too. So believe me when I say space is at a premium if you don't want to cut holes. It would be interesting for science to see what happens if someone (you) bolted a 7163 to the stock manifold (if possible) and/or low mounted the thing. You may not know the pain you are potentially dodging. Also no matter what you do, buy a 90 that you can use off the outlet. You'll need it. I am biased though. I gave the above away and have a 280kw setup with no turbo lag at all, and no turbo to speak of. Get aircon again. Make the car useful. Summer is coming. Rule #1 has got to be "make sure the car does not annoy you, and gives smiles instead". I now look at people who make 450kw and know the hassles that come with all of it, and smile and am happy to be off the crazy E85 crack train and running things at 101%. Go 7163, go simple, run under max threshhold, kick the shit out of it, put on aircon, listen to music, enjoy life. Both of these will work better than the Hypergear. Whether that is really worth the $10k it will probably cost all up is entirely up to you to evaluate.

The difference in my experience made this a must-do-mod. As in, get it installed before the end of the week for your track day for maximum results (if someone has one on a shelf) Locking rears before your fronts even apply their max force is as dumb as it sounds

I had a problem with rear brake wear. I don't remember the setup you have with regards to brakes. I have a front BBK and I would go through rear brakes at a ratio of 3:1! (not to mention braking was always exciting for me, but I didn't have a reference point for tracking a skyline) I upgraded my BMC to a BMC57. Problem very solved.

If you want to do it right, you have to do it right. I had a 7670 on my 2.8, with the 1.05 rear and T4 TS, EWG. My housemate had the 7163 on a SR20 0.85 rear, also T4 TS, IWG (with a fullrace kit) We both had results that had other people scratching their heads saying "omg wtf how so good wtf???" My housemate had issues keeping boost up top on his 2L, and he was using E85 as well to push it as far as he could up top. In other words, he needed a EWG to make the most of his setup, even though it made 335kw on E85. I do not think you will get 300kw out of one in a RB with a IWG on a 7163 on 98. (It is the same size as a GT/GTX3076r.) It will be awesome through the midrange though. You will get better results if you can get a decent manifold and EWG. Keep in mind if you go 6boost you will need to move/relocate/modify your aircon line in a R34, lest it explode on track.... The 7163 could potentially even be low mounted, you could run the T25 undivided on a stock manifold (or use an adapter?), you could run IWG to save physical space, but all of these will hurt you up top. It may be worth doing this, you could save coin if it all fits. It may give you the result you are after anyway and be simpler and easier. And simpler and easier has value in and of itself. You may find that being 'restricted' to 98, that trying to run the level of boost E85 users run into and have restrictions at is not applicable to your setup. You may find that running 19 psi on 98 through an IWG7163 is simple stuff. It just might make 287kw or something like that. If the car is a daily driven road car as you've said, this will be as good a setup as you can really get. The difference in on/off/part throttle compared to a GT, GTX, G Series, or Hypergear is night and day. You will understand this before you drive 20 meters down the street. The calling card of HG is that they do not need much if any fabrication to fit. The BW EFR will need it. It's a weird shape relative to everything else, so expect a new dump pipe, new intake, and all new lines with their complications at a minimum, and maybe a new manifold, Aircon lines etc.

Yea that was my initial thought too - I've seen many things go wrong with my car, but I have never looked underneath it and seen... that.

Well it may be clubsprint because "clubsprint" implies semi-pro-club-racecar, but you all know what I'm getting at. But it's not only the winning clubsprint car. At the moment you feel you need to put a livery on it, it is not a clubsprint car. You will never have a car like that do dual duties. I would put a god damned defect station at the end of pit lane for clubsprint if I could. I also have no qualms with seeing 911's/etc/etc being in clubsprint. Old mate trying to build a 'streetable' R33 GTST going up against a 911 is what people wanna see.. some of the most interesting content for a lot of people is seeing how the new C8 goes up against the new M4 on the same tyres. It's nurburgring laptimes/lightning lap all over. People love this stuff - AND it is attainable. But maybe it needs to be another event. But I feel this class is just absolutely not represented at all.

Yea, it's turned away from what it originally was, which is bunch of mates making car go fast and really really embracing the "World" aspect of "Fastest Cars in the World". I'd personally love the clubsprint class of WTAC ban any sponsorship decals on any of the entrants. It is _supposed_ to be a grass roots class. Either that, or have a flat out "street" class that has rules like that. It could potentially turn the whole thing on it's head and no longer have the 'glamour' of that world stage however. I could be biased, but I swear almost all of the viewers of this event are interested in how fast cars they know at random track days go against other cars. It's always "That guy Fred has a mental [Car]" and we all know who owns these things at various track days that people actually attend. Something that someone could own, mod themselves, conceivably drive on the street. As someone who's watched it for years, the only classes I generally care about at all, is Pro... and Clubsprint. And as you've alluded to, the cars in clubsprint nowadays really aren't even remotely close to a home built/solo built/someone's actual car that it implies it 'should' be.

Eradicating horrible driveline vibes, and horrible clutch vibes is definitely sexy. What turbo was it? From where? A lot of people's "My bigger turbo isnt as laggy" is also because they screw more boost into it in the middle, and get "more power at X rpm than before" which is not the same as lag anyway but...

Can I interest you in a V8 sedan with all of this stuff already fixed (some of it fixed from the factory?) 😛

I also replaced my old RS4's (about 4.5yr) with new RS4's. The difference was staggering... I would not be surprised that new zestinos do better than old AD08R's by the way, at least until they get some heat into them. That said, anything on the track is fun

I mean... a more-wrecked tyre can make a _car_ more wrecked though...

Why do so many f**king tailshaft makers have NO CONCEPT WHATSOEVER of TERMINAL RPM?

You wouldn't bother with it on a R34 Non turbo. They're _alright_. You got to remember, AU/JPN has had a 25 year head start on R&D and Skylines in the USA are going to be even more niche, weird, and rare on the ground than they are here. Especially R34's which were always considerably the rarest of the bunch. It'd be similar (identical exactly) to me looking for C5 Vette coilovers or mods in Australia. ... anyone wanna swap my V8 R34 for a Vette? Cmon do it.