Kinkstaah

12 months on the pump would be great! The pump is really not that old, I have a receipt from when it was purchased new and it's done ~25,000km since then. it really should be okay. And if it it's not, well. I figured I'd at least run it out as it's already tapped for the nissan temp sensor sticking out of it. Here it was, ready to make it's journey back into the bay, though the balancer had to be tightened/seated more. And it was very stubborn to sit back. So much so that the crank bolt ended up stripping inside the crank instead of the balancer moving to it's intended location.

The idea is that this gives all the benefits of ITB's and Trumpets with zero downsides of ITB's and Trumpets

There really needs to be an ODBII item that can play intake noise through speakers, synchronized with your current RPM and TPS%.

The way I think about it is, it's doomed to fail. Anything that marred the colored plastic is absolutely going to obliterate any paint finish. And it got scratched or touched or used in the past to get into that state. People need to start reproducing plastic parts or 3D print replacements that clip in that are colored all the way through and not just coated in something (anything).

My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..

Getting Dangerously close to being ready to go back in the car. Rockers in with clearance castings now (and a quick check with the USA for the torque settings for the larger custom bolts) Covers and ported FAST Manifold sitting on there. Not fully tightened down as there's some clearancing required for the water pump with the earlier LS1 water pump styles. Example of the clearancing needing to be done: The body has to be ground a little but I'm struggling finding an actual piece of it. The later variant of water pump resolves the issue as the manifold was designed around it. It only came on the VZ LS1 in Australia, it got a different pulley for Gen4 motors. (it also costs $450... vs... $0).

It uh, it doesn't seem closed tho Mr Admin.

Well, on that note no - I don't actually have much in the way of pressure, but priming the car results in.. having pressure. I confess that I probably have to do two prime cycles for the pressure to actually *stay* at 43psi but it will obviously bleed off pretty slowly in my one, isolated setup. In my experience it'll start after a crank or three tops. But we're talking about a modified LS in my case. So experiences with RB may vary, though I never touched much/any of the startup cranking stuff for the OEM ECU.

I'm not entirely sure WRT internal check valve. I am lucky enough to run my fuel pressure at 43psi :p. I assume it's higher than 43psi as I needed no retuning after changing pumps from a Walbro 460 which was the variant that had the 120psi check valve which I think they turned into 525? (I am unsure)

Someone has come by locally to pick these up now, if I could close this thread I would

Thats the thing - They do supply the wiring...... but you can just unplug your stock OEM pump and plug it directly into the DW340. I had a stock backup pump here and thought to myself "That looks a lot like the OEM plug for a stock GTT pump" and lo and behold, it is.

The kit from Just Japanese requires no wiring. The plug on the DW300 will work with an OEM hanger, plug and sock. I have tested this recently within the last couple of months. Sure, it won't do 500kw+ on E85 on a single pump.. but that's not the use case here, and it wasn't for mine either given I have 0 boost and thus it can flow very happily. But mainly stock wiring, fuel hat, amp draw concerns being 0 is a major factor.

Supercheap auto sell this: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/pat-plusquip-fuel-tank-lock-ring-tool---universal-kit/SPO3564082.html I own this and if you HAVE PATIENCE you can remove it without snapping lines and generally being incredibly angry, then said at doing this job. Sadly I've removed the pump about 75,000 times over the years. I don't know if you're a large lad or a smaller lad but my advice to you as someone who is 185cm is if you are my height or smaller, is to sit in the boot and take your time. Yes you can put the seal on. The seal goes over the white thing/lid (you will see how it 'slots' in) then the whole assembly presses into the tank. then you screw the lock ring on. I spent so much time doing things the wrong way by trying to mount the seal into the tank first, then putting the white fuel hat on in the space provided. Put it together first then it'll all go in. But seriously be careful about removing the hoses AND where the removal tool is moving relative to the plastic pipes coming out of the lid when you've removed it. IT IS BRITTLE So brittle in fact I have two spare lids, and would recommend buying a spare and having it handy before attempting to do this. May as well throw https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD in the tank as well, as this uses all stock plugs and such. You may need to/strongly recommend you re-use your OEM fuel sock or use the one supplied with a length of hose so it sits at the stock height.

I have had an inquiry to Syd, I assume freight is gonna be a large PITA. Do Auspost allow you to send like 30kg in a box? Seems a bit iffy. I don't actually know the ins and outs of personal courier services to send heavy stuff nowadays.

Yes, it was checked with the roller rockers installed using a LS7 lifter that had been converted to a solid lifter with a dummy spring at 0 lash with a stock length pushrod. With the Johnson lifters longer pushrods were needed which are now 7.700" and 110 wall. Long thiccbois. People much more knowledgeable than I am are doing the measuring!

Yep, both. The ratio is 1.8 instead of OEM being 1.7. The rocker bodies are modified with a larger bolt hole and re-threaded with 10mm holes instead of the 8mm YT has stock. Finding out they don't actually fit the stock castings cause a lot of un-impressment by the person in the USA who tapped the new holes for the 'upgraded' YT product. He was very unhappy with them given their previous design did not require 'clearancing'

This is lower price now given apparently nobody wants these or needs them. It's 550 but if someone sees it on SAU and wants to make an offer, please do so.

More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill. This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.

I just used a can that's easy to empty after every session and pour it back into the fill hole. Takes about 40 seconds when you have 40 minutes between runs :p I don't see how changing any catch can stuff will reduce pressure if the system is sealed. And if it's vented - Does it matter where it's vented with regards to overall pressure?

America has truly gone crazy, this is all the proof I need.

I assume that Nissan give you a tiny little jack in the back of the car, with the spare. They expect a random human to be able to tighten a wheel up enough. Then I assume a mid 40's person putting a wheel on with the equipment in the boot is considered 'okay' probably. Maybe. Someone had to think of this. I would wager wheels won't fall off from anybody using better equipment.

If anyone has any suggestions for a 300-350mm long (or thereabouts) stainless muffler that is 3inch in and out I'm listening

It's... way cheaper than what SP have on their website? I can only imagine if I say "can you make this muffler, but entirely different dimensions outside of the spec you offer as customization on your page" it would get even more pricey. I was looking at their race mufflers or their 'ultra quiet resonators' which are just smaller mufflers. They start at $166 USD which is $264. SP mufflers resonators start from $299 and are too long/not wide enough/can't be made short enough.

I was going to contact them but their custom stuff doesn't seem custom enough on the website. Are they amenable to "Hey can you make this custom thing" (i.e a muffler outside of the dimensions the website shows?) I suppose all I can do is call them instead of buying something from Vibrant which has the specs.

The way they do the test you would be very lucky to ever hit any cell that isn't aiming at 14.7 This was my result... Really not sure what's going on there!