Kinkstaah

T1 may not be so bad cause I doubt people are slamming 100% brake pressure into the ground approaching it at the very last second, so the it may be benefitting from being less severe on the pedal by way of it being a fast corner. My Sandown foibles are around it being a not-very-fast corner, over tons of bumps, at the end of a very long straight. Back end wandering around is less suitable. I am also very not-fast there (or anywhere). But I can see where going faster requires and like you say, rear end wandering around makes me think "nah, f**k that" which is not confidence inspiring if you want to also go quicker! I found that using a BM57 really helped with this as it actually engaged my front brakes first so when it locked, it locked up the front, not the back. I don't know without looking if you have an upgraded front BBK. If you do, upgrade your BMC. Before I changed it, I was going through rear pads at 3x the rate of the front ones, on the same compound. That said, racecars often have more brake bias at the back, because you want braking on all 4 corners to stop the car which actually helps it be more stable too 😛 But the secret to smooth driving and confidence is smooth inputs. Especially with what is a heavy car (any road car). Hell, driving fast is really just dancing around with weight transfer, so if you imagine dancing around with a 1500KG jug of water sloshing around, Takumi style - That's the game.

I think you will find Whiteline also agree with you though... I am with you regarding the car pitching under braking, though that is still going to happen and won't just stop doing it even if you have no front suspension. Momentum is momentum.... a better driver than me would use this weight distribution to assist with turn in, which is what trail braking is all about. Also don't slam the brakes on hard then immediately turn etc, ease in/out of the brake pedal to let suspension do suspension things. All easier said than done when approaching T1 SMSP or T1 Phillip Island or T1/T6 Sandown

I was about to say Ohlins at $3000 is a complete steal, (depending on.. model?) and well worth opting in for if the price difference is as little as that compared to the top two links.

I know for a fact your stock ECU can reduce timing if you use something like HPTuners to tune it. Or the car :p. Didn't you buy that traction control system for this eventuality though? It was a serious question about the bearing by the way. It turns out severe detonation can cause a bearing to fail, (ontop of all the other melted things that happen due to detonation) or something being stupidly rich could dilute oil to the point where bearings fail. But I think that's a 'bad tune' as much as fuelling your car with vegetable oil and morning fresh instead of 98/E85 is 'bad fuel'

Sorry, how do you ... tune.... a bearing?

No, recently I saw someone put a R34 N/A up for sale on FB. One of the swap offers was a 2013 370z. That is the smart option.

This is why I wash my car after it has behaved. Otherwise you wash it, want to drive it, and then drive it 500km through bugs and all sorts of crap. (and/or just leave it dirty)

Or buy my car. That said, I don't think I'd sell, because I know what it'd take to do it again. Really you're buying/building a complete car from scratch that just happens to have the body you like. It is never 'worth it'. It is far more sensible to sell it as is, then go buy a Mustang. MUCH easier, and cheaper too.

Road car, Borg Warner is the only answer. Anyone who thinks anything responds great has not felt the transient differences that That Ti-Al wheel provides. The turbo is the single most important part of anything. The right turbo will have much more effect than going from 2.6 to 2.8L.

Great! So this is a 355/350 kit with Nissan OEM bolting onto my R34 with all of the pad options that an OEM car can provide instead of Attakd/G4/Ksport (which are all slightly different) trying to cross reference fkin everything. With OEM dust boots. In other words, exactly what I was hoping for! Do the calipers cost 10K+ like R35 GTR ones?

Is a R35 GTR BBK still a 15K adventure? Are there cheaper options available for this as an aside? After looking for replacement pads for my kit - OEM BBK's for pad selection seem great blah blah blah. Are there any other options?

Surely something tripping a 150AMP relay is a short somewhere?

So uh, what's your IACV doing? Given the OEM one is connected to the back of the OEM intake manifold.

No, I am just lamenting that I do not know the way of bleeding a R34 GTT ABS system. So I... don't, and find out about it when I activate ABS 😛

Do what I do, which is bleed the brakes awesomely then go to the track and hit ABS a couple of times and enjoy the rest of the day with a spongey yet ....mostly effective pedal.

I'd argue its possible. People have made 450KW on a GTX3076, and a G25-660. G30-770 could get there. Especially if you do things like delete VCT for big cams to keep boost up at 8000rpm.... But max effort there reduces overall goodness at least in my opinion.

Yes, but 450kw at the wheels and street only car is also... pretty shit. VCT gives you two cam profiles. One aimed at low down power, and a switchover for high RPM power. You literally get the best of both worlds. Removing VCT and choosing a bigger cam is really just doubling down on High RPM Power. If you drive the car at 5000-8000rpm all the time, No VCT and bigger cams make sense. But 100% of engine running and 5000-8000rpm is obviously at a track. AVERAGE power is better than peak power. Really, you want power where your RPM needle is at the majority of the time for a fast car, a G30-770 will be a pretty good turbo with modern tech - you're going to like it either way, but I think the 'better overall car' is with VCT and stock cams (maybe poncams). Is it worth the money? For what you want the car for? Eh probably not. There's value in just not worrying about it and driving the car for what it is. But I'll say it again, a car that makes 435kw and comes on 1000+rpm earlier and has a much fatter midrange is much better than a car that makes 450kw where that 15kw advantage only exists at 7001+ RPM.

"Babe I want to run 126psi on your daily in the driveway, a guy on the internet said it was fine" (fn2r good car do agree)

The R33 GTR is the best looking skyline. I still regret missing out on a Gunmetal one, but my views are heretical at best sometimes.

tbh if I had a 33 I would be putting a GTR bodykit on it. There's merit in OEM plastic and steel over fibreglass etc etc etc. I never was able to find rear guards for a R33 GTST-> GTR conversion mind you, but as I do not have a R33 this is quite a minor issue for me personally 😛

People either ditch power steering and keep the starter where it is, or go left hand starter. In my car I have power steering and went left hand starter. It's a r34 but I would wager the problem is the same. If you get the mal wood left hand kit (which comes with a brand new starter) they will send you two spacers for your clutch actuation to account for the size of the plate. Use both. I used one and my clutch was never disengaging when pedal full down, which resulted in quite the explosion one day at the track. 😛

I mean, I didn't drive your car and I am no expert track driver myself, but watching the video makes me think that car handles like an absolute uncontrollable bucket of shit. I know you've drifted it, but if my 34 sedan started behaving like that it would have ended up on it's roof about five times trying to go around a corner with my hamfisted driving. That exit onto the main straight should absolutely not be a mission like that, in any car ever. It's not only rear grip being the issue there. This is an alarming set of tyres at the very least as mentioned.

..... also get the rear swaybar. You would be stunned how much difference it makes with regards to turn in. I'm really surprised you didn't have one already from drift duties!

People remove it for simplicity and realistically... room. If you're adding stuff out there, real estate is a limited budget and the function of this device is minimal at best. Especially for people who have 500kw and want an oil cooler. Supposedly they fail but it doesn't actually seem to happen that often. It's primarily because the space and simplicity given people are usually adding sensors, -AN lines in the area that used to be occupied by that HX.

Thats the thing, and I hope you're pre-cognizantly done this right because... The NA and GTT boxes have different electronics, the NA has an external transmission control unit, and the GTT has it built into the engine ECU. But you have a GT-X, which has various GTT bits in a NA platform. (or at least a NA engine). Does it get the GTT gearbox? Does the GT-X only have GTT brakes? I'm not sure if this knowledge still exists, so you may find that the GTT box works perfectly, or is utterly unusable depending on these variables. If you're morbidly curious you could check the build plate on the firewall. The GTT box is a RE401B, and the GT box is a RE401A, but that still doesn't actually say whether just swapping them in will work fine or not. The summary I got from the auto transmission specialists who post-mortemmed my GT box and built a GTT box for me more or less said it was "Entirely different" inside, chalk and cheese/much stronger/not a suprise the GT box died, nothing was going to keep it alive, with no specific documentation. I could regugitate words from a decade ago. Bands? Planetary gears? Locking clutches? Supposedly all better. It's what you want, but even the GTT box is a sad dissapointment. You could go nuts and install a BMW DCT in there if you want a decent Auto skyline, or burn the thing and buy an Auto Mustang 😛 (or any of the turbo euro cars with a DCT)