Kinkstaah

I just got 17,500 kms from my RS4's. Was thinking about changing to NS2R's because RS4's seem out of stock... everywhere. This is through a few track days and running them at 36psi on the road when they are on road use. Seem to still be the bang for buck performance champion. I was also interested in the NS2R/AR1/CRS options. Porsche guys have a lot of feedback on the CRS and compare it closer to a Pilot Sport Cup 2/2R and rate it on that level/better than that level and it seems to last longer. Some are faster on them than they are on AR1's, others give up a few tenths but the CRS is a much more streetable tyre than the AR1. So realistically, the CRS is the next level step up/level up from Nankang, with a price to match - But still much cheaper than the same size in a Pilot Sport Cup 2/2R.

Welp, given there's no airbag wiring with regards to the seats in a R34, you have done something different.

www.willtheyfit.com Very useful. Or measure. As GTSBoy said, 17x9 +30 just about lines up perfect with the outside of the guard. 10.5 +22 is 27mm beyond the guard.

You gotta keep in mind when people talk fitment in 2023, the rim and tyre are two seperate entities. a 9.5 +27 fits in the same space a 9 +30 does... if the measurement you are actually using is a 265/35/18 tyre mounted to it..... I am sure you know where I'm going with this. Of course, to a degree a rim will physically hit suspension components or be 30mm outside the guard even if the tyre is inside it. Of course you and I would say that's stupid, but instagram may disagree.

Can you rephrase this? I've tried to read it a few times and can't understand if BMW is good or bad. Truthfully tho, you can't really know if a car is going to hold up to the abuse of the ages until it actually becomes old in the first place.

Do they really break them in scenarios that aren't huge digs with drag tyres attached? That said, a Barra in anything usuuuuuaaallly results in the above line being its use case.

Thats the thing about painting in general. It sucks the first 200 times, and then you think it sucks the next 1000 times, but other people say "Nah its actually good!" at that point. There's not much in the way of shortcuts.

It's beyond saving. Convert to E90 drift car.

The only decent road worth driving is Mountain Highway. The rest of the roads are legitimately too shit to even do anything on, in any car.

That is slower, less fun, and less reliable in every single way.. not to mention much more expensive.

I still don't know how this works. When I fill up my car, I crack open the fuel tank filler cap and I hear hissing, which I assume is air filling up the gas tank as I release what is now a vacuum of sorts due to the fuel level being depleted while sealed. Is this normal? If something is fked, should I just notquitetotallybedoingmyfuelcap all the way? Nobody ever seems to know the answer.

Technically at the the racetrack the fan should be off given how much air is flowing through the front of the car but like yeaaaaaaa.

Drove through a booze bus today, Cop was all "Does that have a 25 Neo in it?" Said "Oh no, it has a LS" and opened the door and pointed to Engineering plate and told him it was all above board officer. I got a solid thumbs up. no RB can have that peace of mind! 😛

Yep. I am of similar thinking. Imagine how shit or off the rails your day has gone for you to dial 000 for Fire, Ambo, or Police. That's their entire work day. Every single day.

I would say it's probably not fine at all. This is one of those things where when you open a laptop and notice your load source is at 0.0PSI and you know that is absolutely not possible with the engine running and idling that you go and find out why because anything else you do will not function. If the car is still running, well, it's as damaged (or undamaged) as it can be. It all comes down to how close your ... 0PSI and (???) RPM load cell is tuned relative to the conditions the car was running in. Which is .... abysmal. Cars do not have a 1x1 load map. Who knows what the timing is set at 0psi and (???) rpm. Maybe the tacho is correct and it was going up and down in the 0psi table. There's quite a lot of documentation on the Haltech end, I would advise reading it if not done already because tuning is fun. But you gotta make sure what the ECU is seeing is what is actually occurring in the motor or expensive metal sadness will result in short order.

It is subjective! FWIW I am on the fence about bad idling and V8's literally running like shit at idle. 😛 I much prefer an equal length header LS1 if packaging allows and a nice smooth idle... I suppose yes, cars run no bov before they were invented. Not having a bov for the original items list for OP is at least period correct. As is the T51. Now all we need is some frosted tips, and white rimmed oakleys and go full 2006.

Just so we're clear, we're talking about that sound that you get when you back off a turbo or supercharger without any kind of release valve? That sounds broken to me. Because it is, in the applications that it is used. You like it, to me it sounds like someone is driving around with rod knock and thinking it sounds sick because... it's ... broken-sounding?

See also: Dose. "Hey man make my car sound broken cause it is"

Sorry when I said 'defective' I didn't mean "get defected" I mean broken, working improperly. Literally sounds like a car running bad because it is a car running bad... whats next, making the car sound like it's spun rod bearings for clout?

Nothing sounds as good as obviously defective car setup huh.

The un-fun answer is: You aren't really ready for the build you want yet. You may make it there, but, it's not a build you would want to actually have in 2022. Save up, there are no shortcuts for repeatable, reliable performance. Almost all of these items are shortcuts, or not required at all. Because if I hit submit reply at this point it'll seem unhelpful so: Outdated/At their absolute limit (which is never great) Nistune with Zeitronix flex fuel sensor wiring hardwired into it zeitronix e85 ethanol content analyser kit Used original z32 AFM You would be at the extreme upper limit of this setup with that power. Be smarter. I know you said you didn't have the cash but: turbosmart fuel pressure regulator fpr800 plazmaman fuel rail (top feed i think like stock) Both of these are not needed at ALL. Sell them. Buy better engine management. Garrett GT3076R T3 .82 v band rear shitty stainless steel exhaust manifold i may or may not use Don't use either of these. The turbo is the only power adder a turbo engine has. Any $ spent on a quality turbo is ALWAYS WORTH IT. EVERY TIME. Your performance lives or dies on your turbo. This one has had its day. You will not want it in there, eventually. You also will not want a shitty manifold doing the very critical job of feeding it air. These you can keep/use: Turbosmart 45mm wastegate hypergate gen V Walbro 535 fuel pump bosch 1000c injectors static flow plazmaman 600x300x76 bar and plate intercooler(rated up to 800hp) You could arguably find injectors or a more suitable intercooler depending on brand loyalty etc. If you already have these parts, proceed to UN-have them, unless you are going to be happy installing them/paying for them to be installed and have a literally below average result. The poor man pays twice. Other: Other misc like MLS gaskets, exhaust wrap, turbo oil and water lines etc The best part about an unopened engine is the fact is unopened. Do not change gaskets you do not need yet. Leave the Nissan in. That said, if you ignore all of this tbh you will likely land with a pretty usable, reliable 320kw setup. Which will actually last reasonably well and still be a fun car. But it could be a lot better, you just may never realise it.

I am sorry, antilag is not part of the 'Sensible 300kw package'.

Rebirthing is what. Fixing cars? Once it's fixed and accredited/engineered/what have you the thing should be off the WOVR with a status of repaired and that should be the end of it. Keeping receipts for a f**kin control arm for 15 years is f**ktarded.

Nah that was just how it sat. At the time I got it to find out how heavy they are, how heavy the LS swap was, and to give the information to Bilstein with regards to revalving shocks and such. I get too OCD about the car being lower at one side than the other so I preferred that over optimal weight. The engineer who was doing the engineering (and the weighting) seemed really happy with the balance by default so I more or less figured it was close enough 😛 I did ask hiim at the time if he had weighed any other cars but the numbers were kinda varying. He had everything from stripped out (I mean STRIPPED) out R32gtst's weighing 1200kg, and things like R33/34 GTR's weighing 1900KG. Of course, no R34 GTT stock sedans. The BMW seats I have (and their adaptors) are also heavy. I was just curious as to how much the weight difference is, but obviously not curious enough to test the car before and after. It does appear to have moved a little bit of that weight back so, yay? Or perhaps thats just a 34 thing.

It is violently hard in NSW and VIC. If it is on the WOVR, you need the official list of damages that put it into the WOVR, AND an itemized receipt for this work being carried out to make it "OK" again and registerable. This list must follow every buyer, every time it changes hands, even if the damage that put it on the WOVR, and the subsequent fix happened 10 years and 3 owners ago. If the seller does not have this information, that you can verify is enough - don't buy the car and the owner will have a very hard time ever selling it. Yes it's dumb. Once it's fixed, satisfactorily it should be removed from the WOVR. It is after all, a repairable write off.