Kinkstaah

Was actually interesting, I assumed the cross of 49.4% wasn't bad for literally no effort in my case. Maybe it is actually better stock! I figured you weren't in the car for your weights. Guess the 34 sedan is a fat pig after all, or at least mine is with its massive cast wheels and all that other stuff I now am self concious of. This is with me sitting in it, which somehow makes the balance go from 49.4 to 49.75. Clearly the secret to corner weighting in my setup is just to eat some more pies. Went to Country Cob bakery yesterday, enjoyed https://countrycobbakery.com.au/collections/beef-pies/products/slow-cook-bbq-beef-with-mac-cheese Perhaps this is a better plan going forward.

Just testament really that shows a ~320kw setup with everything within tolerances will run nearly 'forever' and just work out of the box with minimal gripes, or as minimal as possible. Finally someone posted some weights, it is interesting to see the R33 and R34 pretty similar, and fairly balanced too. My car had a full tank of gas, spare in the boot, seats in it, ~10+kg of tools, sub, amp etc. Full road going setup when I weighed mine but: Your Weight/My Weight FR :450/422 FL :428/425 RR :328/344 RL : 305/329 They are pretty balanced out of the box. Now that I look over my one again I've moved my oil cooler from FR to FL since then, which would make it I could then move my battery from FR to RL... making the whole thing 410/422 - 344/344 (assuming battery and oil cooler both weigh 15kg). But I mean hey, it goes to show that spending all this time overthinking weight distribution, and swapping a V8 into a car is not even close to worth the time, compared to simply being reasonable to begin with and enjoying the car in its maximum fun/performance ratio. Good job being the gold standard 😛

Nahhhh in my case I distinctly got a R33 gearbox conversion back in the day, and the brake pedal from a 34 as the auto pedal went in the bin. I kinda wish I still had the chunky auto pedal now for extreme ease for heel/toe but... well not enough to buy an auto pedal. I think it's DOABLE but holy shit is it forever hard. Even with whittling I can see that it just wasn't going to fit without some really funky things like melting the rubber with a heat gun or manipulating it EXTENSIVELY (for hours and hours and hours) to the point where it is not as firm anymore and more pliable. Taking the pedals out to fit them would be extremely recommended. And yes, TBH there's still not much I would replace it with. I see C5's coming down in price and are now importable, and obviously need no bodykit to be fitted to fit wide tyres, but I don't actually think I can justify replacing what I have with a car full of unknowns. I may rant about this 34 - But I know where every bolt is, the condition of every item, refreshed literally everything, and how to remove/replace everything and source parts, the list goes on. Probably simpler to paint it and be the sleeper at the track nobody expects, then be a vette everyone wants to pass to prove themselves. That said: GR Yaris also exist. The times they put down at SMSP and other places is unreal, and AWD is just such a good thing to have in any time you don't have perfect grip on a perfectly flat surface with slicks. I.e all the time. I do regret not putting it up for 69,420 though. I guess I can drop the price once and set it there. But like mentioned, there's a very good chance I won't actually sell it even if somebody rolled around with it. It'd be weird seeing it driving around with someone else behind the wheel, or on someone's instagram or at the track. That said, everyone who's ever sold a car ever does kind of get over that in time, I'm sure I would too. At least I'm not wanting to buy a M2 or M4.

Nothing much has changed, because I decided to upgrade my gaming machine instead of buy car parts for awhile, plus I do not know who to go for for paint. If I had the money, which I don't. But still, who will paint the above bodykit? Any recommendations? I would actually conceivably even go interstate to NSW or SA for the right work/price if they were reputable, did the job right/fast/no f**kery. Also flirting with selling the car entirely, and buying something that doesn't 'need' a bodykit. Which would require someone to pay silly prices, and for me to send all this history to the shadow realm, neither of which is that likely. I am very much the guy who tries to take the starter car in NFS all the way to the end. Tested my tune with my new IAT sensor, found out that GM/HPTuners do not calculate pulling fuel for rising IAT. My 6600RPM/Full throttle tune at the track had 12.8 AFR at 7.0ms injector pulse. The other day the IAT was 40-45C and was deciding to pulse at about 6.2ms. Which was about 14.4 AFR. Which is less than ideal. My ECU now believes any temperature over 14C is 14C, so I will run comfortably rich in such a scenario. If it's WAY rich (which I doubt) I can always change how the temperature is sensed. Not really the way to do it, but I cannot alter the relationship between air temperature and how much fuel is pulled with regards to air density. So much for seeing how well my car ran in the warm temperatures, as I thought so many things could be f**ked like.. down a cylinder, fuel pump messy, fuel filter clogged, god knows what. Also noticed a terrible sound coming from the diff. Like someone had shoved a metal rod in between spokes of a bike. Speed dependent. Very un-fun. Given my car stank like diff fluid at the track the other month, I thought perhaps there wasn't enough oil in it. Pulled over, hmmmed awhile, decided to drive home as far as possible off any kind of load to avoid leaning out or the diff exploding too severely, though it made much less noise when I wasn't driving uphill. (hence thinking oil level) I also noticed this. Which is fine, my 34 used to have all alloy pedals back in auto land. And the foot insert! But clearly during manual conversion back in the day it got 33 items. But then I thought sure, why not. Let me tell you, that the brake pedal was an absolute utter asshole to fit, but actually did fit in the end with a f**kton of swearing. My pedal has R34 written on it so I assume it's for a R34. It fit. These pedal covers claim to fit a variety of vehicles as you can tell from the URL. https://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/sports-pedal-aluminium-suit-nissan-skyline-gts25-gts25-25gt-25gt-25gt-p-63.html "Genuine Nissan Aluminium Sports Pedal Set to suit Nissan Skyline R33 GTR / GTS25 / GTS25-t / GTS-4 & R34 25GT / 25GT-4 / 25GT-t / GT-V." So you'd think it would be fine if you say, had a R33 clutch pedal. Well let me tell you, that can go and get f**ked and if you ever buy these and want to fit them, be prepared to whittle the rubber insert for the clutch pedal for HOURS and swear your head off at WHY WONT IT f**kING FIT and then giving up and whittling it away, then securing the top part, making an outline so it kinda presses on, then using a very generous dab of sikaflex onto the metal pedal between the cover and the pedal itself. Because it sure as f**k won't fit any other way. But like yea tho. The diff problem was a torn exhaust hanger. Which I noticed when I went to fill the diff up with some spare gear oil while waiting for heavy shockproof to arrive. These are made of Polyurethane. So they should be strong! Which means I am SURE THEY WILL BE FUN TO FIT, given the rubber one I replaced (I had one spare, connected to nothing...) required a f**k ton of swearing and stretching and such to replace. These poly ones will surely just go right on and not remind me of that pedal install at all. Surely.

Use a bigger turbo. Spin it less hard. People overdriving turbos does not make it a good turbo selection, nor a good plan. I can run 200psi boost too and make tons of power, is that what we should recommend then 😛

If it doesn't have a Ti-al wheel then everything else can be ignored. Yes, more manufacturers should use better materials. It makes so much of a difference in the real world that I just cry when people spend money on turbos without doing proper research. The only other variable is packaging, but if you physically can't fit a huge turbo somewhere, you are well outside of the "Street car" category.

I have a bissel thingy but yet to actually try it on car, or carpets. Not really sure why as I recently cleaned the car.. and carpets. Could use it on door inserts too. Pretty easy to remove the rear seat out of the car too. In short, I have been lazy. Thankyou for mentioning this vaccum brake bleeder thing, now that I know that exists my life is 4% improved.

Borg Warners on a level of their own when it comes to turbos. If you know you know. Nothing else should even be discussed. Don't even spend time using the brain cycles thinking about it.

The rears may actually fit, barely, but won't be in line with the guards. The fronts will absolutely smash about 25mm into your front struts 😛

Rolling fenders is pretty much a requirement for wheels to somewhat fit/look good/maximize tread. I wouldn't be surprised if it's required to do it on a 17x9 +22 for a R32. Rolling the guards is pretty much considered part of any fitment, and safe enough to assume it has been done/will be factored into any decision as to whether something fits. I have 18x9+30 on a R34, which has (a little?) wider guards and they are rolled, although I have most likely wider tyres on them. So therein lies my guesstimation about the R32 and wheels that sit 8mm further out.

I have very long hair and have been rocking a chopper mustache for movember.

.... sorry was that with the MT's or with a regular R888 tyre?

Nope. I read too much about the solenoid failing to do anything other than a manual lever to open/close it. You CAN get a cord even to pull in the cockpit to manually operate the lever for this, but I've not done that (yet?) I wager given LS's run 600,000kms or so, their cold start bearing wear must be of very minor concern given all the other concerns out there with cars.

I can confirm you can mount the big one at the back of the reo. Check my build thread for photos etc etc. As it stands I am too weak to corner hard enough for it to actually get used, but hey its nice it's there 😛

No, LS1 only has thermo fans available 😛 So yes, OEM level thermos often do work well and very often outperform expensive other fans. My AU thermo fan kit was a grand total of $50 and closely follows the dimensions of a skyline radiator. I have heard mondeo fans are even better, but I never needed to go that far. I used the clutch fan on my RB. Worked great even with no shroud. I have an accusump on the LS and the simplicity of the design stuns me that I never knew about them when I had a RB. Or any f**kin engine. I do not know why some system like that is not standard on any track focused vehicle.

This was pre-oil cooler on the RB! Post Oil cooler it sat at about 100C ish doing the same kind of hot laps. This was with the cooler in the driver side. Post change to LS I had the cooler in the passenger side, and noticed it actually cooled better there than in the drivers side. But I moved it back to the driver side due to my intake. Did 70 hot laps at Sandown and water stayed at 87 and oil was happy at about 105. With thermofansomg (but they are OEM AU ones). Utterly irrelevent to this discussion other than OEM VERY GOOD YES YES.

Oil temp on track will hit 150C in a lap or two. Or at least it did for me. So yeah, oil cooler pretty mandatory for track fun. 110C is the exact point the needle moves from "middle" to high in a R34. 109C is middle. So there is no 3/4 anything on a 34, but yes this thread is about a R33 so who knows whether that is accurate. OEM fan is best. Always. Nigh on impossible to break the OEM fans. OEM fan without shroud is still pretty much the 2nd best thing lol.

It is worth noting that the length of a 1 piece in a R34 is above what is considered terminal RPM at ~200ish kmh. Fine for the street. I got a custom 2 piece made. If you get one made of exotic materials you may be okay, but if you do that level of thinking get a 2 piece. Mine was $700. Remember that if you are doing a manual conversion you can just use stock manual tailshafts (or the one half that is different). All of the bearings and bushings can be replaced nowadays. Ignore the whole "you cant rebuild a 2 piece because some bits are not available" because they now are with a search.

I got off my butt and test fitted the bodykit that has been hanging around awhile. It will be months before I have enough coin to make that scary and expensive call to a body shop to actually fit it and paint it though. (any recommendations in vic heartily appreciated) Best way to watch Bathurst for the boganness of it too. The F1 was inside later, so you can all rest easy the car is not a permament living room replacement!

I got you fam Source: me doing what you doin. This is with limiter of 6600 and 265/35/r18 tyres, and a 4.08 rear. So, turns out it is 2123kmh at 1000kmh. The regular T56 6th gear is 1696kmh in 6th. Making before what I said a little fake news. Also I forgot it's auto, yet again. I also just realised that the numbers I pasted right now are a mix of 4.08 but the rpm at 100kmh is the 4.11 rear. Cause I clearly am not sure which one I actually have in my car cause it makes no difference unless you're doing it all in excel 😐 😐 😐 I find the ratios to be near on perfect - That said I bought the magnum for the 5th gear being shorter which makes a mental difference but testing it IRL and in simulators like assetto corsa showed actually no difference in pace 😛 ^--- also me

...... I have a 4.11 in mine, and a .63 6th instead of a .50. Even with these (relatively insanely) short gears, my 1000kmh idle is like 1800rpm. With the .50 it was 1600ish? With the rear ratios you are talking about, I don't know honestly why you don't get a 4cyl econobox and play V8 rumble through the speakers.

Really not that bad. See my other comments at "Daily driver/spirited nasho tyres". The RS4 is just priced better than anything else. The days where the RS4 was twice the price of a Federal/Nankang are sadly quite over, making the Hankook just the bang for buck champion. Yokos tend to grip better as they age, and will grip down to the cords, but this is an impression with no hard data that I have ever really seen. The tread life in kms is the same for me (AD08R vs RS3/RS4) making the AD08R just twice as expensive for literally no benefit.

Coupe and sedan are identical. They are identical cars mechanically (R34 coupe and R34 sedan) with the only exception being the exhaust. R33 GTST brakes and suspension will fit on a R34 NA. I do not know whether there's realistically any damping differences in some companies setup but I HEAVILY doubt there would be, if looking at something like a R33 GTST BC coilover and a R34 NA BC coilover, or a R34 GTT BC coilover for example.

In my case it's cost. I don't have the funds/space to buy two sets of rims and have them sitting around like the pair of drag tyres/rims I already have sitting around. The idea is you have one set of tyres for road AND track duties. No it's not as good as either. As as result, you can scoff and disregard people who R comps as "ah yeah track only tyres" and feel smug about your street car. In the future I will most likely do what you say honestly. 80TW or R comp (cup 2 etc something) for track tyres, and a 300 treadwear good-ish road tyre. Like a Bridgestone RE003 or NS2 or something like that. Truth of the matter is even RS4/AD08R's only really start gripping up at tyre temps at 80C+ Can't really see/admit to ever pushing hard enough on the street where I need to drop pressures and get tyre temp up that much - So they aren't even operating as designed on the street anyway, and I always wondered if a softer tyre that grips better at 50C actually provides more total grip than a UHP/200TW tyre at 50C does when it's out of its temperature windows, AND then its pressure window if you DO get it up to 80C.

So, I did a track day. Here's the photos of all the other cool stuff that was there that day. https://www.facebook.com/media/set?vanity=rcpicsmelb&set=a.187556910319041 I totally did some track day tuning with the laptop, which was actually quite beneficial as you can't get better datalogging than actually going down Sandown main straight instead of a dyno 😛 Only thing that 'broke' was the PS fluid got a bit hot due to heavy sustained RPM which is a pretty known issue in pretty much any car ever, I may look into an Astra electric/hydraulic power steering conversion for this purpose, as a PS fluid soaked sock is not really ideal in my engine bay, though it wasn't really even too soaked. Perhaps cool down laps are in order for PS given everything else was fine. 75+ hot laps. Car sounds the same coming out the way it did, but that horrible lifter clacking noise is still present, so I may take it to wiser minds to have the heads pulled off to get it investigated once and for all. I stupidly deleted my Trackaddict data and I was very slow around the track because my body is not used to G forces, so I only have unedited, un-timed gopro video available. But it has V8 noises and the misfires are from traction control kicking in. Some of the "There's just no grip" was rain and cold/greasy conditions, and part was me being scared. Anywho, here is aforementioned v8 noises, now with all natural pops and bangs baby. (i.e not tuned for them)