Kinkstaah

Is the car not loud enough already or

No road tyre is worth it. No 17in drag radial will compete with a 15 one with more sidewall. Just wear different rims front rear at the drags. There's the reason everyone does it. Driving on the road with drag radials is shit anyway, unless you are doing massive launches at every stop, they are really only good for launches, and detrimental everywhere else. Going on a cruise with corners in it I would really advise against running a DR on the rear and a regular tyre at the front.

Also if you're gonna do that, buying new rims, go 15's or something for more sidewall.

2 step is.. just a limiter while the car is not moving 😛

Believe it or not, this actually did sell to a guy from work (of all places) about a week ago after being up for most of the year. Get the full kit I say, the rear is also very useful/effective!

Just make sure if you get a harness you get a HANS. Then there's all sorts of extra things to consider like a helmet net and proper collared seat and etcccccccccccc. Just adding 1 can be less safe than adding 0, but I am sure you know that already.

So does trackaddict, though I would suspect RaceChrono paid (which I also have) does well, but trackaddict also overlays OBD2 data from the car if you want that too. Maybe Racechrono does. Point being, get it setup right and all you have to do is hit 'record' and your video and telemetry gets synced and life is good. Will see how well this all works for me on sept 2

They were never shit, and this is cool as hell.

My bottom end was rebuilt... so I think it's standard? Or refreshed.. standard? I didn't do it - I bought it with a lot of receipts but it has new bearings, new pump and was re-assembled. Apparently I have the standard flow, standard pressure pump. I did notice the oil pressure for a LS at idle is quite low, but not critically bad, I am happy that it's at about 28psi now (that my gauges work/don't leak). I would have probably specced the high pressure one, but I'll admit my ignorance after making my other post, I don't see how the pressure spring changes things. Given the pressure is a resistance to flow... high flow should also = high pressure, and your oil pump specifications should be dictated by how the engine is built (hence the sincere thankyou video man)

These are really great concise videos tbh! (I also have a melling pump)

Especially with... oil pressure.....

Do not get the high volume pump - You will be just pumping oil harder into the heads and through your PCV system, and emptying your sump faster. What you want is the high PRESSURE pump. So yeah that's why not I mean is it a real issue given how you use the car, no Did you need to change the oil pump at all given that information also no

Nah, he will buy the M3 then join the ranks of "Oh, man, I miss the R33, I didn't know what I had until I sold it, but now it's too expensive/not possible to do it again" Save this post for 2026 lols.

The RWC requirements are pretty clear actually in regards to what is checked during a RWC test in victoria. One of the more stringent ones (it does note this out specifically now) is that the car's emissions system needs to be as factory from the air filter intake to the dump pipe. If the car is currently registered it is fine to assume it is still able to be registered unless it is a WOVR vehicle, which means you need the reciepts for the damage that got the car off the WOVR register and back onto the road. Provided it's not been written off. Other than the turbo/filter/intercooler situation most of the other considerations for RWC are safety related as well as modifications that fit under VSI8. This means wheels that are 1" wider than OEM, not sticking out past the guards, passing a noise check, brakes that work, no obvious oil leaks everywhere, seatbelts that work, wipers that work. Anything that does not meet this needs to be presented with a VASS certificate. Those are generally reserved for registering a vehicle. As my car has been engineered, I'm actually not sure what the new buyer would need to provide, but I am going off on a tangent here. As to what is stock and what looks stock, well the RWC tester is required to take photos. So it needs to look stock. . This goes for every car sold or RWC'ed for defects etc.

Still available. $250 obo!

Drag radials will change it, I mean if the 60ft becomes 1.8 you'll be down into the very low 11's to boot. Then again after you have the slip in your hand you now have extra rims and tyres to stare at going "Ah yeah... cool, now what" So may as well just do the math and be satisfied 😛

I registered in the cruise, but as I wake up slowly the day before.... I think I'll just head up there later in the day because sleep is fun.

The earlier LS1's do that, the newer ones (like mine) have the PCV valve in the valley cover, so the only hose they have stock is the under-valley one to the intake manifold. My one came with a nightmare combination of both vents and a newer PCV. You need to have the one from the throttle body on. I plugged it and exploded my dipstick at the track N/A because I was thinking boost land with a one way valve. Well it turns out crankcase pressure when it builds vents in the other direction into the intake manifold, so it's both fresh air and a vent. So don't mess with that one lol.

That reminds me, why did I use all of the ports on the valve covers when I could neaten it and just use the PCV like you have done. Cause.. flow? Ugh. Looks nice man. Much nicer than mine!

Not to mention comparisons to other cars (like falcons, commodores) which also are great at doing what they were designed to do... but this is off topic now. If you want a reliable R34 GTR with 600HP, the answer is buy a 911 GT3, because that is what it takes lol.

There's a big difference between "is shit" and "wasn't designed for that purpose" though 😛

An accusump does not need any ECU or electricals to control it, it is purely mechanical in nature with regard to how it responds to oil pressure loss situations.

Don't have logging like that. You can set auto logging once a set of parameters have been met. I.e Full throttle = Log. This means you can go back in time when you have a problem and dont have to pre-emptively start logging. It's the future! By the future I mean I had it many years ago and miss it.

I told youuuuu!

Presumably car was running before attempting to do any of this? It's the loom by the sound of things, given new spark plugs, new coilpacks and new loom... that's some decent troubleshooting. Yes there could easily be fuel on them depending how much cranking you attempted to do to get it to start again which can mess things up. That said, by the time the loom arrives probably will have evaporated away 😛