Kinkstaah

So we're comparing red vs blue lines here? Pretty much in line with what people expect. I was under the impression one of the big draws of these turbos is that they were physically smaller than their GTX predecessors. Is this not the case given what you've said about it fouling on the head?

Nah, pitfalls and ... "R&D" aside.. I am very very happy with what I have, and wouldn't trade the experience of driving it for anything I have ever driven, including HSV/SS's, RB Powered Skylines (of which iterations I've had many) or or a BMW M3 Competition... It's not hyperbole, I am often plagued by wanting to see what else is out there, is the grass greener etc, but every time I drive something it only reinforces the good thing I have made (or at least, suited to my tastes), It just doesn't exist in any other form. I joke that my car is "basically a corvette" now, but honestly after reading what they do to make them track ready, I'm closer to the end goal with what I currently have than it would be switching to one of those even. Plus, now it has history.

🤔

Guys its important to understand I didn't initially fk the headlight and it now works properly again!! 👏 It's also important to understand I never put in the wrong adapter to begin with and used awesome troubleshooting skills to find the issue and rectify it! ....I definitely Gregged it a few times getting to that solution though, and probably should have checked what I got sent in error but I did get there.....

So, that adventure with hairdryers didn't quite work. It also gave me COVID. So I thought I got a brain cell and remembered to pull a bulb out this time, so the vapor could escape before using a heat gun to get the moisture out. Unfortunately in doing so I melted/marred the lens. _f**k_ So I got a brain cell and took it out of the car, removing the bulbs and let it actually evaporate, and decided to try my best to sand down the headlight to remove the marring. This was reasonably great, and the internet said I could spray some clear over this and get a nice UV resistant protective shine. Sweet. What could go wrong? Above ^-- what can go wrong. This happens if you spray like a retard on a too cold day. For bonus points, the above photo is AFTER it has been sanded down. The cracks are actually embedded into the plastic because it would appear that Acrylic clear actually chemically reacts to the plastic in R34 headlights? f**kin major sads. I then decided to pull the headlight apart, aided by my heat gun, and figured well, it's time to REALLY get sanding. I used these tools for multiple hours, multiple sheets, ranging from 40 grit (yes!!!!! on a power tool) to 2000 grit. Over the course of a few days it resulted in this.... Eventually this actually did work, once I exhausted my sanding I used a Cerakote headlight restoral kit, which came up pretty damn excellent, and by "Excellent" I mean it looked like my other un-molested headlight. But then... the moisture retuuuurned. This time I used science to get the moisture out, as it didn't come out over time by just leaving the headlight open, or as I had hoped - Driving the car with the bulbs removed. Given this opens into my airbox, I would think THE ENGINE would suck the moisture out. Nope. Once dry, I used black sikaflex in the mouldings in an effort to make the damn thing seal, with a lot of tape to protect my ... somewhat usable headlights. It has not since misted/monsooned up. I think I may have sealed it right the first time, but not have actually got the moisture out, or sealed it all in a warm area then it would condense when cold. In any case, now it does not condense on its own while cold, and should be damn sealed with sickaflex everywhere, given I am now very intimate with how these things go together and come apart. Onto the next issue with moisture. My OEM oil pressure sensor seemed to do impossible things. At hot idle it would show 2-3 bar, and then at the next stop it would show... 1 bar. It also didn't really correspond to higher RPM properly. Because oil pressure shouldn't really behave like that I was somewhat confused. I checked my other oil pressure gauge on the other end of the Accusump and this behaved properly when revving the car, and was holding between 45 and 60psi (phew). Still this gauge made me sad. So I looked to how it was installed, my power steering leak causing issues in the past, I wondered if there was a leak that was messing with the reading of the sender. The sender grounds to the block and is 1/8 BSPT. The hole in the oil adapter is a 1/8 NPT. There was an adaptor already in there, and after messing with it, it looks to be the same thread as my oil temp sensor which is drilled into the oil block at the top, which VDO state is 1/8 NPTF. These were definitely all different from one another as I fiddled with them by hand. It looked as though the adapter in there with tape was a 1/8 NPTF extension. In any case, what I needed was a 1/8 NPT Male to 1/8 BSPT female extension. So I ordered that, and received an Aeroflow 1/8 BSPT Male to 1/8 NPT female. Which threaded together pretty easily until I did this to it. Yes, it snapped off inside the oil block adapter. Yes, I had to remove it from the car and drill/unthread it out. I then realized I got sent the wrong product, and the company that I bought it from sent me the correct product. My car sat on a 45 degree angle in the driveway with the oil block removed so oil wouldn't drain out in the interim. I received the correct part and now 1) I do not have any leaks 2) Oil pressure shows 45psi at idle, and increases with revs correctly in the OEM cluster (the 34 one responds very quickly) and I now get 60psi+ at 3-4k. Likely more past that but I didn't go redlining like a hoon. 3) It may be a placebo but less tapping from the engine while driving it around. In any case I have no leaks and very stout oil pressure. I have also ordered my bodykit parts for my ugly tetris block. The ETA on that is 11 weeks. I fully expect to annihilate the lip multiple times, so I am going to raise the car 20mm to get back to those mythical sydneykid specs at 360/350mm as I realised my car actually sits 340/340. Yes I bought a bodykit and will raise the car. I do strange things.

I assure you it was in super sport+ everything available. It definitely did not feel technically better in any form. Slower, worse handling, worse sound, much heavier, way less communication. It was a luxury car that had good power. I felt it a bit shameful calling it a 'competition' anything.

Tbh it seems the coolant port works correctly, because the idling does drop when the car heats up. The leak is elsewhere (or inside the unit itself). When they shit themselves they idle high. When they fully let go you get 2000rpm idle everywhere. Joy.

tbh the owner I know who has one whom I got to beat the shit out of in the hills also has a R33 GTR. Would never swap the M4 for the GTR, but it makes for a very nice daily. He actually remarked about how compliant mine was for the bumpy roads without sacrificing grip actually. The two experiences just aren't comparable. If you find the badge snobbery fun, that's all there is to enjoy about it. Please find one to drive in the hills with your own car as a comparison then consider which set of keys you'd like to keep. I thought the grass was greener too (especially when it pulled up and I sat in it) but after driving both I was like yeah, no way... SavageGeese's review of the M4 did kinda sum up exactly how I felt (though he loved the gearbox, I thought it was really delayed and sluggish) Well worth a 30 minute watch.

Exactly. So go drive one and you can set your mind at ease!

The racelogic is one of those things (along with an Accusump) which blows my mind how they don't have wider adoption. They are simple and have massive, massive, massive effects and if you're even remotely interested in driving a car hard, you'll smack your head for not doing sooner. Disappearing in need now as cars get newer and TC technology in OEM's is obviously very competent, but you'll look back at all the years of high powered RWD cars and be like "wtf why only now"

still haven't driven one huh

Such a good color man. Really looks the business. Edit: And wheel fitment. And the stubby exhaust. Just well done all round tbh. Awesome to see. So much better than a generic M4.

Funny enough the stuff I used (header armor) they specifically state it should only go along one side of the exhaust and it isn't a full wrap, it's more like a heat shield and supposedly this is also more effective. But still required things to come off, but yours may be very different given, well it's a different car and different headers, but it actually looks like the bay space is very similar to a skyline from other fitment photos I've seen. But expect pain nonetheless! Good idea to protect other engine sensitive things, but don't expect anything major in terms of heat, especially if you are changing some already-present heat protection? Expect to be whelmed with whatever reason this is being changed for...

Also worth mentioning "Removing the headers" is considered one of the most fked jobs in all of LS land, enough that a lot of LS owners, commodore or otherwise generally outsource it or take a day of labor to do it once they go from the OEM manifolds to long tubes etc. So if it seems like a complete f**k around, it's because it is and it's not anything being done wrong per se.

It's simple you silly head. I may have forgotten the LS ECU is natively in the engine bay, mine is all in the Nissan location.... Also when I installed the heat shield here -> https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/lava-header-armor We had the headers off the car and the transmission out. And you know what, honestly it made pretty much jack shit difference to engine bay temps, my engine bay gets HOT still, but it was done in the idea of protecting leads and other things in the bay. We did the entire exhaust from headers to exhaust tip in the effort of reducing floor temperature and cabin temp. And when I think about it... it did actually work to some degree. This is less of an issue in a factory setup though. But the main part was to do the headers it was simpler to remove them from the car, fit the shielding, and put it back on again. Doing it in situation was really not plausible. Hope that help$!

Dying fuel pump #1? Surely not. I think this one failed the Turing test. Back to the lab boys.

I wonder how reliable a RB25, RB26 or SR20 is in stock form. I would wager it might last centuries.

It is relatively* straightforward. I have had to wire the standalone TCM and if you look at the modules, all of the wires that go into the NA's standalone TCM are labelled the same as the ones that go into the GTT's ecu. Same number of pins, same labels on all of them. As far as the wiring outputs and inputs go, they are the same for the GTT and the GT. In my example I was wiring them into a dedicated transmission controller that was external to the engine ECU, but as Haltech say it would not be impossible to wire them into an aftermarket engine ECU that has these outputs. That said, you can wire the NA auto into a GTT ECU and Nistune it given you do not have huge power goals. And again, all that said, all this time, effort, money and such is a waste because the car is about twice as enjoyable with a manual in it. You will regret spending the money and time on the auto. I promise. I'm only saying it now so I can say I told you so later. I need you to know this, so you will be like "fk, should have listened to that guy"

Plug and play was the requirement here. I don't know if the GTV gets the the turbo gearbox or the N/A gearbox. It'd matter, because a Nistune would/could work if it used the turbo auto box. All of this thinking should be dedicated to going manual though. Including all of the ECU budget and the turbo budget.

It is by far the best thing you can do. You pretty much have to, by the way. I can explain it in longer words if you like, but put the manual conversion BEFORE you consider a turbo kit in terms of "Things to do".

Only if you drive one first. If you then proceed to buy, please castrate yourself.

It could be, but I looked into someone who had AWD converted his Monaro and realised it'd be subframes and god knows what and manual gearboxes grafted to driveshafts and it became 'yeah nah' quickly. Though its probably possible with a mix of parts.

The clever way is what GTSBoy has suggested (as it often is) A GTFour with a RB25DET Neo drivetrain from a Stagea (i.e AWD) is the smarter way and likely better performing way than putting a RB26 in there instead. Doing it with a GT is just more work, to the point where asking what base car is kinda irrelevent lol. About the same difficulty as doing it with a 240Z or 350Z or Holden Commodore. (now I want to AWD convert my car ....wonder how viable that is)

Thankyou for my new existential dread about my R34.

They can of course be configured every which way (like any dyno) so if you're trying to compare to old mate competing dyno you can tailor it to suit, most of the regular hub dynos here in Melb at least read very similar to roller dynos. This is just going from same car on multiple dyno days with no changes etc. But ofc, given that - It's a tuning tool only, etc etc. Do a run on the same thing before and after for actual comparable results of any change blablabla.